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> picked up the car from the shop, it runs like crap !
rfuerst911sc
post Jun 11 2011, 07:23 AM
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Had the 914 at a local shop for a week to have the following done.
1.Replace alternator it was putting out zero voltage.
2.Install new plug wires.
3.Adjust valves
4.Repair wiring to oil pressure gauge

That was pretty much the list there were a few other small issues. Car ran good when dropped off. The shop decided to drop the engine to do the alternator replacement and valve adjustment. All the items on the list were repaired but when I went to pick up the car it ran like crap. I called the mechanic over and we pulled the idle jets on the Weber carbs ( engine is a 3.0 ) and a couple of them had junk or what looked like yellow paint flecks in them. We cleaned them out and reinstalled with new o-rings and ran a little bit better but still like crap. I had to get the car home so I limped it home. I stopped for fresh gas and that didn't help. Fuel tank was pulled last year while I was completing the restoration and cleaned. I cleaned it not a pro. It was clean looking with minimal rust inside and a new fuel tank sleeve filter was installed on the outlet nipple. New SS fuel line from tank to engine bay with all brand new rubber connecting lines. New fuel pump with new fuel filter before the pump and a new fuel filter in the engine bay. I do not have fuel filters right before the carb's. I know carb's are finicky when it comes to dirt,dust or foreign objects so it appears I need to clean all jets. Does this sound like the right way to go ? Should I install a fuel filter at each carb ? I'm hoping this is all it is and I can get away with just cleaning the jets but what if the goop,gunk is IN the carb bodies ? I plan on converting this engine to EFI but need to get it running properly for the rest of the summer. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks
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wertygrog
post Jun 11 2011, 12:42 PM
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I would double check the firing order with those new plug wires.
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jmill
post Jun 11 2011, 12:58 PM
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Check the timing. Was a new cap and rotor installed?
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carr914
post Jun 11 2011, 02:09 PM
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As they said and also try to find Ethanol-Free Gas to run thru your Carbs ALL the Time. Ethanol + Carbs are a Bad Combo

Who did the work, I hope it wasn't AA
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rfuerst911sc
post Jun 11 2011, 04:59 PM
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I will check the firing order of the plug wires. A new distributor cap and rotor was NOT installed because they were relatively new. The shop name will be with held until I figure out what the problem is. Thanks guys.
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jim_hoyland
post Jun 11 2011, 05:08 PM
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QUOTE(rfuerst911sc @ Jun 11 2011, 03:59 PM) *

I will check the firing order of the plug wires. A new distributor cap and rotor was NOT installed because they were relatively new. The shop name will be with held until I figure out what the problem is. Thanks guys.


Check each plug wire too: Just spent all day with a similar crappy running car that had new plug wires. One wire was NO good.
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rfuerst911sc
post Jun 11 2011, 05:55 PM
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QUOTE(jim_hoyland @ Jun 11 2011, 03:08 PM) *

QUOTE(rfuerst911sc @ Jun 11 2011, 03:59 PM) *

I will check the firing order of the plug wires. A new distributor cap and rotor was NOT installed because they were relatively new. The shop name will be with held until I figure out what the problem is. Thanks guys.


Check each plug wire too: Just spent all day with a similar crappy running car that had new plug wires. One wire was NO good.



How did you figure out the plug wire was bad ? These are brand new Clewett wires I purchased from Pelican.
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jim_hoyland
post Jun 11 2011, 05:59 PM
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Get that VIN ?
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QUOTE(rfuerst911sc @ Jun 11 2011, 04:55 PM) *

QUOTE(jim_hoyland @ Jun 11 2011, 03:08 PM) *

QUOTE(rfuerst911sc @ Jun 11 2011, 03:59 PM) *

I will check the firing order of the plug wires. A new distributor cap and rotor was NOT installed because they were relatively new. The shop name will be with held until I figure out what the problem is. Thanks guys.


Check each plug wire too: Just spent all day with a similar crappy running car that had new plug wires. One wire was NO good.



How did you figure out the plug wire was bad ? These are brand new Clewett wires I purchased from Pelican.


Used the OHM meter
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sean_v8_914
post Jun 12 2011, 09:55 AM
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what does teh shop say baout it all
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Katmanken
post Jun 12 2011, 11:13 AM
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Check for continuity with the buzzer. The wires should conduct. Had one wire that was a conductor when cold, became an insulator after 5 minutes of running.
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rfuerst911sc
post Jun 12 2011, 01:33 PM
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QUOTE(sean_v8_914 @ Jun 12 2011, 07:55 AM) *

what does teh shop say baout it all



As I stated they helped with the quick idle jet cleaning but other than that they seemed happy with their work. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
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ripper911
post Jun 12 2011, 03:39 PM
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Call them back, talk to the boss!
See if that helps.
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Drums66
post Jun 13 2011, 04:21 PM
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....Take it back fast! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif) ( I'd leave it there till it runs right!)
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)
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Root_Werks
post Jun 13 2011, 04:27 PM
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Duuuuuuuude, never take a car from a shop that isn't better than it was when you dropped it off.

You should have left it there and told them to get it running back the way it was.

Any respectable shop would have happily agreed.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)


Others have metioned already, check everything that could have been touched, plug wires, cap/rotor etc.

Valve lash? Oh man, get that wrong on a six and that'll do all sorts of bad things.

Keep us posted. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
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Jeffs9146
post Jun 13 2011, 04:32 PM
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QUOTE
Valve lash? Oh man, get that wrong on a six and that'll do all sorts of bad things.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
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rfuerst911sc
post Jun 13 2011, 04:46 PM
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Update- Today when I got home from work I pulled all six idle jets. They all looked clean but I took them apart and sprayed each with fuel injection/carb cleaner. Also sprayed some into the carb bodies. Put it all back together and didn't make any difference that I could tell. The shop set the valve lash when the engine was out. I called the shop and voiced my displeasure with how it's running. They said bring it back and they'll make it run right. I'm afraid to drive it because not knowing what's wrong I don't want to damage the engine. I do have a car trailer so I'll go that way. Tomorrow I'm going to ohm out the plug wires to see if I have a bad one/two. Yes in hindsight I should have left the car with them but my wife had already left with the grandchildren. Oh well we'll get this right ( I hope ).
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J P Stein
post Jun 13 2011, 04:54 PM
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They pulled the motor...let me count the ways they could fuckitup....ah...forget that. Start pulling plug wires while it's running...one at a time (wear thick gloves). If the idle doesen't drop, put that one back on & move to the next. I would bet they have two (or more) crossed at the cap.
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Root_Werks
post Jun 13 2011, 05:06 PM
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QUOTE(rfuerst911sc @ Jun 13 2011, 03:46 PM) *

Update- Today when I got home from work I pulled all six idle jets. They all looked clean but I took them apart and sprayed each with fuel injection/carb cleaner. Also sprayed some into the carb bodies. Put it all back together and didn't make any difference that I could tell. The shop set the valve lash when the engine was out. I called the shop and voiced my displeasure with how it's running. They said bring it back and they'll make it run right. I'm afraid to drive it because not knowing what's wrong I don't want to damage the engine. I do have a car trailer so I'll go that way. Tomorrow I'm going to ohm out the plug wires to see if I have a bad one/two. Yes in hindsight I should have left the car with them but my wife had already left with the grandchildren. Oh well we'll get this right ( I hope ).


Not your fault, the shop should have known better than to have it listed as "ready for pickup". They are willing to take it back which is good. Hopefully they just take care of you and make things right.

Good on you for trailering it back. Don't risk them being able to say "If only you hadn't driven it...." (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
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rfuerst911sc
post Jun 13 2011, 05:32 PM
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QUOTE(J P Stein @ Jun 13 2011, 02:54 PM) *

They pulled the motor...let me count the ways they could fuckitup....ah...forget that. Start pulling plug wires while it's running...one at a time (wear thick gloves). If the idle doesen't drop, put that one back on & move to the next. I would bet they have two (or more) crossed at the cap.


Funny you say that because I did pull the plug wires while it was running and I really couldn't hear much of a difference on ANY of them as I pulled them off. Is it possible that all of them could be off by one position but still start/run ?
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post Jun 13 2011, 05:45 PM
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Since you have 6 cyl, the poles on the cap are 60 degrees apart ... I don't think the engine would run 60 degrees retarded or advanced. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

If the firing order was out of kilter by switching a couple, you should notice a miss.

If miss timed (to retarded) it would run like shit. To far advanced would make it very hard to start and you would have a high idle.

If the valves were set to tight you should possibly get popping out of the exhaust or backfiring through the carbs.

New or not, I would check the ohm resistance on the spark plug wires if all else fails.
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