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> It's alive but water pump has a bad seal & leaks, If I can find one in stock I have a chance tommorow
JRust
post Jun 20 2011, 10:27 PM
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Okay I got the starter off tonight. It wasn't locked up at all (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) . I don't see how it would be my tranny after the rebuild either. I can spin my wheels just fine. Also with it in neutral I can't get the motor to turn with the bolt up front.

So I pulled the plugs & put some more oil Dea Foam penetrating oil down them. Letting it soak & putting more in tommorow morning. Then I'm thinking I'll try the flat tow kit. Tow it & drop the clutch (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) . Which gear would I do it in? 2nd? Or what else might I try before that?
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messix
post Jun 20 2011, 10:31 PM
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so you bench ran the starter?

try and put it all back together and turn it over with the plugs out.

there are no bolts the can bottom out to the flywheel and lock that up when the tranny and every thing is installed?
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JRust
post Jun 20 2011, 10:41 PM
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Aren't I better off just leaving the starter out when I try to break it loose. Just one more thing that could cause a problem?
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messix
post Jun 20 2011, 10:49 PM
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QUOTE(JRust @ Jun 20 2011, 09:41 PM) *

Aren't I better off just leaving the starter out when I try to break it loose. Just one more thing that could cause a problem?

no

it holds the tranny on with 1 of 4 bolts!!!!!

it should not matter if the starter is bolted on unless you can feel that the starter nose cone goes to deep and makes contact with the fly wheel. if does theres yer sign!


i would get it to spin over with breaker bar on the crank with the plugs out then spin it with the starter, then on the starter with the plugs in.
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messix
post Jun 20 2011, 10:51 PM
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oh! and make sure you've got the battery charged up and run the charger while your spinning it over.
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Mike Bellis
post Jun 20 2011, 11:09 PM
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If your tranny is the problem and if you flat tow and pop the clutch. you will shread your tranny. Just to be safe, I would unbolt it pull it just far enough away to make sure the main shaft spins. Reach your hand up there and spin it. You wont even have to take off the CV's. If it spins free, put it back and pop the clutch in 3rd gear.
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JRust
post Jun 20 2011, 11:16 PM
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Doens't the main shaft turn with the diff?
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messix
post Jun 20 2011, 11:21 PM
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QUOTE(JRust @ Jun 20 2011, 10:16 PM) *

Doens't the main shaft turn with the diff?

not until you put the tranny in gear
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messix
post Jun 20 2011, 11:22 PM
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main shaft is top shaft in the case, the final drive is the bottom shaft with the pinion gear on the diff end.
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JRust
post Jun 20 2011, 11:23 PM
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I've had it in gear with the wheels off the ground. I spin one wheel & the other spins opposite. Does that mean it isn't turning the main shaft even though it is in gear?
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messix
post Jun 20 2011, 11:30 PM
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QUOTE(JRust @ Jun 20 2011, 10:23 PM) *

I've had it in gear with the wheels off the ground. I spin one wheel & the other spins opposite. Does that mean it isn't turning the main shaft even though it is in gear?

it's an open diff, that will happen. you need to make sure the tranny is in neutral and either block a tire or drop one down to the ground and then spin the tire that is in the air.

you might have the gear selector [slider forks out of position and locking the tranny up]

you will have to drain the tranny and remove the shifter selector console and look insiiide and make sure the groove or open spot is in the correct posistion [neutral] and then reinstall the selector.
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messix
post Jun 20 2011, 11:31 PM
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i'm pm'ing you my number
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JRust
post Jun 20 2011, 11:37 PM
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So either way I need to remove my tranny. With the tranny off if my motor still won't turn over. Then my rings must have froze to my clylinder wall. If my motor turns then it has to be my tranny causing the problem, In which case I need to drain it & pull the gear selector. In neutral with the shift fork out of it the 3 forks should all line up?
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messix
post Jun 20 2011, 11:45 PM
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QUOTE(JRust @ Jun 20 2011, 10:37 PM) *

So either way I need to remove my tranny. With the tranny off if my motor still won't turn over. Then my rings must have froze to my clylinder wall. If my motor turns then it has to be my tranny causing the problem, In which case I need to drain it & pull the gear selector. In neutral with the shift fork out of it the 3 forks should all line up?

you dont need to pull the tranny to check the shift forks. just the side shift console, where the selector is.

i had trouble when i did mine after i droped the tranny and broke the ear the holds the shift bar bushing and had to put another in.
you can see and move the forks with a screw driver to get them into place. its kinda bitch to put the selctor in with out geting them of of place but it can be done.
you have to shove the shaft up in the console as you snake the console into place
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computers4kids
post Jun 21 2011, 12:24 AM
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My money is on the tranny, seriously doubt it's your engine Jamie. I wouldn't drop the clutch...you could have a mess on your hands.
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McMark
post Jun 21 2011, 01:09 AM
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You should have to disconnect the CV joints to pull it back far enough.
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ConeDodger
post Jun 21 2011, 09:00 AM
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I know you've heard this from me before, but why don't you throw it on a trailer and bring it down to Mark. He'll have it running in a couple hours... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/evilgrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)
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Cap'n Krusty
post Jun 21 2011, 10:14 AM
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QUOTE(914Mike @ Jun 19 2011, 07:43 PM) *

QUOTE(JRust @ Jun 19 2011, 07:28 PM) *
... Just be a bit of a pain to get the starter off. The nut on top has the ribs on the starter to hold it in place. That is no big deal on a normal motor as you get to the bolt. On my motor that bolt head is on the adapter plate & hidden. Anyone have a trick for getting the nut to come off? Probably just have to pull the tranny with adapter plate to do it. Just means unbolting the rest of the stuff involved (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) . Oh well maybe the sucker will start with a new starter in place? I will make sure to test one on the bench before putting it in though (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

If the bolt is still metric (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) I would put a head-nut back on, once you get it apart. 15mmATF vs 17mmATF with the same thread, you might have an easier time next time...


Other than automatic transmission fluid, which I don't think applies, what does "ATF" mean here?

The Cap'n
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JRust
post Jun 21 2011, 10:19 AM
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Funny rob (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Okay so after soaking overnight I used abig breaker bar this morning & got it to move. I bench tested another starter & after finding it good put it in. I still get nothing when I turn my key from the starter (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) . Is that my ignition? With the key on I jump the starter & it turns over. After wondering why it sounded so funny for a second. I remembered I didn't have my spark plugs in it. So got out from under the car & got those back in. Put my wires back on & got back under to jump the starter again. Turned over just fine & sounded pretty normal. A little different getting that sound from under the car as opposed to the driver seat. Anyway my battery had run down. So I put it on the charger & came in to report (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) .Still didn't quite start but I think only because my battery was so low
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mharmon
post Jun 21 2011, 12:10 PM
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ATF = across the flats
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