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> Sheared trunk hinge Bolt
Philw
post Jul 13 2011, 03:16 AM
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Hello all, I have been grappling with what must be one of the "worst" jobs on the 914 (till the next one) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) namely refitting the springs for the rear trunk or boot as we UK owners call it.... The mecahnism had to be removed as part of my hell hole welding repairs recently. After several hours of fighting the incredible pressure these springs are under (and many thanks to the excellent step by step guide on this forum for refitting the springs) I finally manged to get the 2nd spring under its hinge "perch" last night slipped the roller on and was congratulating myself when I discovered in my enthusiasm tightening up everything when the spring was in place I have sheared the bolt holding the hinge "pivot". So I shall have to drill out the old bolt and maybe have to tap a new thread depending on how lucky I am. My request here is does anyone know the part number for the bolt I have sheared? I need to order a new one and am hoping the official Porsche spares network will come to my rescue as in the past they have been excellent with these sort of pieces. If not it'll be Mittelmotor or Pelican I guess. I have tried to attach some pictures hope they work ok. This job was meant to be an easy one after realising I needed a break from the front struts which are still work in progress....


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SLITS
post Jul 13 2011, 06:56 AM
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If the threads are not rusted in place, it can be removed by drilling and using a screw extractor or cutting a slot in what is left and using a screwdriver to remove it.

It is a shouldered bolt. Don't know part number, but I could probably find one and mail it to you.

If it's rusted, you might wind up replacing the hinge pivot.
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Rex-n-effect
post Jul 13 2011, 07:59 AM
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The part # is 914 512 191 10. Still available from Porsche. I had the same problem only the DAPO drilled the center of the bolt and tapped in a domestic bolt. How stupid is that? I carefully drilled it out and then used an easy out to remove the original left over bolt and then re-tapped it to the correct threads.
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windforfun
post Jul 13 2011, 10:35 AM
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Use PB Blaster to loosen it up.
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Jeffs9146
post Jul 13 2011, 11:11 AM
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PB, PB, PB, Heat, PB, Heat

Drill and extract!
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stugray
post Jul 13 2011, 03:39 PM
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One trick I learned at the racetrack for extracting broken bolts if you dont have the real tool is:

Drill a hole and pound a star screwdriver bit into it and use a ratchet to back it out.

Those screw bits are a dime a dozen and are usually hardened.
The star gets a better grip then some of the purpose built screw exctractors I have had the displeasure of trying.

Stu
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SLITS
post Jul 13 2011, 06:10 PM
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One other thing .... ditch the torsion bars and buy the gas shock setup. This relieves the stress on the bolt ... wella ... no more pulled hinge mounts or broken bolts.
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914itis
post Jul 13 2011, 09:02 PM
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QUOTE(SLITS @ Jul 13 2011, 08:10 PM) *

One other thing .... ditch the torsion bars and buy the gas shock setup. This relieves the stress on the bolt ... wella ... no more pulled hinge mounts or broken bolts.

I am about to put my hinges back and I am afraid that the same thing will happen. does anyone have a trick on how to deal with that spring?
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r_towle
post Jul 13 2011, 09:06 PM
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QUOTE(ppetion @ Jul 13 2011, 11:02 PM) *

QUOTE(SLITS @ Jul 13 2011, 08:10 PM) *

One other thing .... ditch the torsion bars and buy the gas shock setup. This relieves the stress on the bolt ... wella ... no more pulled hinge mounts or broken bolts.

I am about to put my hinges back and I am afraid that the same thing will happen. does anyone have a trick on how to deal with that spring?

its simple.
Get a 6 inch socket extension and a deep 10mm socket.
Use this as a tool...
Put the 10mm socket over the end of the spring, bend it down and onto the pulley, then pull the socket off.

Rich
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914itis
post Jul 13 2011, 09:49 PM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ Jul 13 2011, 11:06 PM) *

QUOTE(ppetion @ Jul 13 2011, 11:02 PM) *

QUOTE(SLITS @ Jul 13 2011, 08:10 PM) *

One other thing .... ditch the torsion bars and buy the gas shock setup. This relieves the stress on the bolt ... wella ... no more pulled hinge mounts or broken bolts.

I am about to put my hinges back and I am afraid that the same thing will happen. does anyone have a trick on how to deal with that spring?

its simple.
Get a 6 inch socket extension and a deep 10mm socket.
Use this as a tool...
Put the 10mm socket over the end of the spring, bend it down and onto the pulley, then pull the socket off.

Rich

Thanks, thats a great technique
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Philw
post Jul 14 2011, 02:25 PM
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Thanks for all the tips, I have bought some new drill bits and will start the process of drilling out and try some of the tips mentioned here. I wish I'd gone for the shocks straight away but having got this far I'll probably stick with the springs. The socket technique for refitting the springs may work but I found the best way was to use the technique which I think is linked to from this forum but is actually on another site. This shows how you can cut the hanging hole on your adjustable wrench to make it into a tool to lever the sprng forward to allow you then to get the long socket over it for the final push under the "perch".

Hopefully my bolt will come out easily, it isn't rusted in place as it was removed when the hell hole work was done and I greased it before re inserting it. Fingers crossed!!
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Mr Pharmacist
post Jul 14 2011, 02:33 PM
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I'm doing a similar thing too and want to get rid of the springs. Who sells the gas strut kits?
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Philw
post Jul 14 2011, 02:57 PM
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I saw these when I was looking into options when the springs were fighting back :-) In hindsight I would have used them as I have spent hours trying to get the springs in place. Now they are in place I am happy to stick with them but if I ever needed to remove them again I would install shocks.
http://camp914.com/products.html
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Philw
post Oct 12 2011, 04:25 PM
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Finally got back to this job, drilled the sheared bolt with a small drill bit, then a bigger one just smaller than the diameter of the bolt, all with plenty of wd40 to keep things moving. It worked a treat, the small bit went right through and the bigger bit took out enough metal until eventually it started to "catch" the bolt which then span free and actually exited through the rear of the fixture. The threads are undamaged so just need to get the replacement bolt and refit. Only a small job but it's a victory I needed to kick start a renewed period of work on the 914......
Thanks again for the help.
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jsayre914
post Oct 12 2011, 04:55 PM
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Thats great news. I love when things just go your way (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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76-914
post Oct 12 2011, 05:17 PM
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rhodyguy
post Oct 13 2011, 09:02 AM
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fwiw, WD40 is prob one of the worst products you can use as a penetrant. products such as PBblaster, AeroKroil and time are much more effective in loosening rusted fasteners. google AeroKroil or Kanolabs for distributors in the UK.

k
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