No spark! |
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No spark! |
underthetire |
Sep 21 2011, 08:59 AM
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#21
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,062 Joined: 7-October 08 From: Brentwood Member No.: 9,623 Region Association: Northern California |
Prospect Farms Thanks for asking about my 914. I hope this video illustrates where I stand on getting the thing running (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lKwkYPS7kUQ (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) I just had my brake calipers media blasted and I'm waiting on a re build kit from NAPA (Only $50 for all four corners!!!!) NAPA seems to sell calipers for only about $60 bucks plus core which seems very good. I'm about to get it running well and stopping well, Rust is the next issue, but OMG the rust! Just FYI, you had better order the rears from Eric (PMB) and return the Napa ones. EVERY flaps ones i've seen don't have the o ring set for the adjusters in the rear. I went through the same thing. The adjuster o-ring seems to be where they always leak. |
Steve73 |
Sep 25 2011, 09:53 PM
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#22
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Photographer/Shade Tree Mechanic Group: Members Posts: 125 Joined: 2-July 11 From: Nashville Member No.: 13,269 Region Association: South East States |
Prospect Farms Thanks for asking about my 914. I hope this video illustrates where I stand on getting the thing running (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lKwkYPS7kUQ (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) I just had my brake calipers media blasted and I'm waiting on a re build kit from NAPA (Only $50 for all four corners!!!!) NAPA seems to sell calipers for only about $60 bucks plus core which seems very good. I'm about to get it running well and stopping well, Rust is the next issue, but OMG the rust! Just FYI, you had better order the rears from Eric (PMB) and return the Napa ones. EVERY flaps ones i've seen don't have the o ring set for the adjusters in the rear. I went through the same thing. The adjuster o-ring seems to be where they always leak. Well none of my calipers were leaking when I took them off. They were pretty rusty though. I almost have my rears apart and ready for rebuilding with a kit I have. I'm missing one spring on one side for the parking brake but that's not a big issue at the moment as the area around the parking brake is rusted to bits. I wouldn't want him to work on my fronts and return them, they seem to messed up, especially when I tried to drill out the old bleeder screw myself. Chalk that up to experience. |
Steve73 |
Oct 7 2011, 03:23 PM
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#23
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Photographer/Shade Tree Mechanic Group: Members Posts: 125 Joined: 2-July 11 From: Nashville Member No.: 13,269 Region Association: South East States |
I've got the engine running pretty well with the exception that I'm getting a fair amount of backfires. I've got the well set at 44 Degrees and the timing at about 35 btdc set at 3200rpm after i got the engine hot. How do I adjust for this. Is this because the carbs are running too rich? (Did i mention it's got carbs)
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TheCabinetmaker |
Oct 7 2011, 04:13 PM
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#24
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I drive my car everyday Group: Members Posts: 8,301 Joined: 8-May 03 From: Tulsa, Ok. Member No.: 666 |
44 is the low side of the dwell. 47 would be better. Timing should be 27 btdc, but thats for FI. Not sure if a carb changes it or not.
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Prospectfarms |
Oct 7 2011, 10:25 PM
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#25
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Member Group: Members Posts: 495 Joined: 7-March 11 From: Louisville, KY Member No.: 12,801 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Per: Pelican: timing with Carbs.
Set timing at 3200 RPM at 34-36 degrees BTDC provided distributor has ported vacuum advance. Congrats on your success. |
Steve73 |
Oct 7 2011, 11:48 PM
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#26
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Photographer/Shade Tree Mechanic Group: Members Posts: 125 Joined: 2-July 11 From: Nashville Member No.: 13,269 Region Association: South East States |
Thanks everyone but I still need some advice about the backfiring. I have the timing right for Carbs but I have what I think is a 009 distributor with no vacum attachments. Any adjustment advice is appreciated. I put up a vid of it running when I smooth out the engine. It does rev well with no hesitating or stalling.
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Prospectfarms |
Oct 8 2011, 09:48 PM
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#27
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Member Group: Members Posts: 495 Joined: 7-March 11 From: Louisville, KY Member No.: 12,801 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Thanks everyone but I still need some advice about the backfiring. I have the timing right for Carbs but I have what I think is a 009 distributor with no vacum attachments. Any adjustment advice is appreciated. I put up a vid of it running when I smooth out the engine. It does rev well with no hesitating or stalling. In my experience, when a "normal" engine "pops" while revving the throttle off idle, either the A/F mix is lean or the timing is incorrect. An OEM 914 distributor had a Bosch No. that end with 009; however, I think you are referencing the "Bosch 009 clone" or a new Bosch unit that are popular for aftermarket applications on AC VW engines. I've observed that 009 dizzy's (centrifugal) advance curve vary significantly between individual distributors, and that the advance comes-on suddenly. This means it's prudent to be conservative with timing when using these distributors. (OT) Without a vacuum advance, I'd imagine you'd feel a flat spot or hesitation when accelerating. |
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