Fuel Lines, replace? upgrade? Options

[jandro62]

I'm getting ready to replace the motor in my 914, and while everything is apart I'm considering pulling the gas tank (since its probably never been done) to inspect it/clean it. What are my options for fuel lines? is it possible to run hard line to the rear of the car? Should I switch to braided steel hose with AN fittings? any tips?

Thanks,
Alex

[tod914]

Nice Tech article on Pelican on that. I used 60" flexable steel brake lines I got from local auto parts store. Just had to cut off the flared ends.
I think they were 5/16. Works great with 7mm or 8mm inner diameter high pressure fuel line. The 7 is a real tight fit, the 8 goes on easy, but should be fine when clamped. If you do a search under my name on PP, you'll see some additional stuff on that. The topic came up here as well. Should be plenty of info on it for you.
Also, I think you year of car dictates which size line you should get. Mine is a 75. Early I think is different.

[Joe Ricard]

I went with high presure FI hose 5/16" from pump to injector rail no joints. used regular fuel line 5/16" on the return side. engine compartment to the "Y" no joints. Pump is now up front. everything runs through gromets.

Only drove it two days till I had the turn signal thing go tits up.

[lmcchesney]

The 30y/o plastic lines are a fire hazard. Pictures of 914's in various stages of flame are present. The PP tech articles has instructions, but utilize AN fittings at the firewall and all. Also look at Dave's pictures of the centeral tunnel cut away views to understand the relationship of the fuel lines to the shift rod, clutch/accelerator cable and such. The feed line can be replaced with 60" 3/8" steel fuel/brake line at about $6. The return line can be a 5/16". Remove the tank and clean it. You can use the feed line at the engne firewall end to attach some of the new fuel injection hose you bought with the steel fuel lines. Connect to the feed line and other end into gas container. Take the coil wire out and turn the engine over and pump the tank empty. Pull the tank. I found that feeding a wire through the tank side of the hoses to the rear provides a guide for the new lines. Pull the old lines out and discard. The steel lines need a 30-45° bend,(using a pipe bender/mandrel) at 6-8" from the front end. Then, feed a new gromet over the fuel line and position to the rear. Now slide the fuel line over the wire and through the engine firewall, through the tunnel and it will meet with the rubber block at the front trunk. Steady pushing and twisting will produce the fuel line through the rubber block and into the tank space, but not all the way. Now bend the rear portion of the line to meet with the engine fire wall and push the line futher in until the rear bend approximates the engine firewall. Now fit the new fuel injection fuel hoses and double hose clamps onto the new lines. Some use another steel line and fashion it to run from the engine firewall, bend beneath the battery tray and up and out through the fuel line holes and the engine shelf. Check for leaks after pressuring up.
Hope it helps.
L. McC

[jandro62]

Thanks for the info. I've got a dual weber carb setup that I'm putting on. Whats the difference between FI hoses and other fuel line?

[lmcchesney]

Pressure and cut resistance.
L. McC

[ClayPerrine]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Put in the steel lines! Having stood on the side of the road and watched my wife's beloved 914 burn I will never have another 914 that still has the plastic lines. Her car was brought back from the dead, and ti won best daily driver at the MUSR a few years ago, but the memory still haunts me. The time and effort involved in replacing the plastic lines with metal is insignifigant in comparision with the time it takes to repair a 914 after an engine fire.


Clay Perrine

"It's better to wear out than to rust out!"

[gskinner]

anyone here ever replace these lines w/ the engine is still in the car? Any pointers?

[tod914]

I did mine with the motor still in. Make sure the lines are clear before you start. Cut off the flares with a pipe cutter. Tape up both the ends. If I recall, I think doing the drivers side one 1st would be easiest. I used the flexable steel/brake line. Looks like a pipe with 2 flared ends.
It's a matter of pushing it in abit, making a slight bend, pushing, rinse and repeat, till its through. The line is pliable enough where you can do that with out much effort. Eventually, you will get them through. Not really that difficult, just need to be persistant. If you have all your access plates off, it shouldnt be that hard. the 2 plates are the tranny one, and the one by the back bolster.
When u get the lines through the foward tunnel and into the gastank bay, you will need to use a pipe bender to make a bend in them. Use the old brass ends as a templet. Cut up some old fuel line into maybe 2" sections, and slice lenghtwise. You can use the on the line inside the tunnel area. That will prevent any ratteling. There are also a couple of tabs that the lines should sit in, inside the tunnel. You will see them when u remove the old line. The hardest part of the whole job was removing and reinstalling the rubber grommet by the foot pedals.

[gskinner]

Tod -

Thanks for the info. This project is still a month or two out, but it's good to know that it can be done.

[Rusty]

I'm not in complete agreement with L. McC. Just because something is 30 years old, doesn't necessarily make it a hazard. I have serious doubts that the few "burning 914" pictures around can be traced to center tunnel line failure.

That said... Yes, it can be done with a minimum of fuss. I did it, and used grommets at several places along the SS lines (in the center tunnel) to help reduce any vibration.

After I pulled my center tunnel fuel lines, I was amazed at how pliable they still were. The ends that protruded into the engine compartment had been baked until they were brittle - but the line in the tunnel was in very good condition. I could have snipped them back, replaced with good fuel hose and left well enough alone.

-Rusty (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)

[lmcchesney]

Rusty, you are correct. I should have said, "a potential fire risk." As I get older, more things seem risky.
L. McC

[Rusty]

I think becoming parents helps that process along, my friend.

I do FAR less crazy stuff than I used to... being a Daddy means I need to plan on sticking around for a few extra years. That whole "Life fast, die young and leave a good looking corpse" philosophy doesn't work when it's time to tuck a little boy in bed. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

-Rusty (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)

[tod914]

I noticed the same with my tunnel lines. They were fine and I could of clipped them like you. Oh well, better safe than sorry.