Rear Soft brake line replacement, Engine out? Options

[Eric_Shea]

You "need" to replace them at this point.

I always use a MAPP torch and a flare wrench at that union to get those apart. It usually spares what you just went through.

***WORD OF CAUTION THOUGH*** a MAPP torch can quickly "cherry" your lines. They are rather thin walled and they can glow red hot in a few seconds with a MAPP torch.

1. Don't try wrenching them apart until it cools a tad.
2. If you're planning on keeping the hardlines, WATCH THE LINE as you turn the 11mm male end. Very often the male end and the line have become rusted together (the torch helps here as well) and you will see the line "twist" as you turn the 11mm end. You might be able to get away with it if you catch a small twist before it busts loose but... I'd write that line off in the name of saving your life somewhere down the road (literally).

[swl]

Thanks all. The hardlines are being replaced. Bending up the new ones. Quite an art to that particularly when there are changes in plane. Hand eye coordination was never my strong suit.

Mapp info noted Eric. I'll give that a go on the rears when the time comes. Won't waste much time with it though - if it won't go then I'll just take the hardlines with the soft. I did sense that "twist" you are talking about when I started one of the nuts but it popped almost immediately. It wouldn't take a lot of twist to weaken that line.

[Ductech]

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Replace the hard lines.

I usually break those flare nuts free using... *GASP* ViceGrips. Gotta get them really tight the first time. Gotta bounce/surge by applying short bursts of pressure. I never simply push hard..harder..harder. The surging is the key. I've used this technique on TONS of brake lines and have never damaged a flare nut. There is absolutely a risk in using this technique, but if applied correctly, it works.

McMark Praise the unsung glory of the ViceGrips!!!

[swl]

The front soft/hardline replacement was a real 'adventure'. Now it is time for the rears. It has been suggested that removing the softlines with the engine still in will be a PITA. Looking at it there certainly is not a lot of room when doing the inboard end. I don't want to spend hours messing around cursing only to decide the engine has to come out. The engine will be coming out at some point to put my 1911 into this chassis but that is quite a ways away.

So - who has done it with the engine in place? How did it go?

[trfrick]

I did it with the engine in and it is deffinately the tougher way to go. If you can wait until you are going to pull the engine your life will be much easier.

Trying to fit the new hard lines back on the proportioning valve is the hardest part. To see how hard this will be try to loosen the hardline for the porpotioning valve first.

[Eric_Shea]

So - who has done it with the engine in place? How did it go?

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Difficult but doable.