Check your CV bolts, Mine came off a few minutes ago Options

[ChrisReale]

Luckily I was one block from my apartment, but it still sucked having to hold the flashlight with my knees while I put the drive shaft back on. Check your torque to make sure it is correct. I have been meaning to do this for a few days, and it bit me in the ass. Dont let it happen to you (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif)

[aircooledboy]

Mike Mueller is a trained A&P mechanic

.....that only means I passed the test(s), not that I learned anything (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

That seems VERY unlikely my friend. Accept credit where it is truely due. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Ctrout]

Safety wiring is easy. The tricks are not to overtwist the wire and weaken it, and to make sure that the wire is routed in such a direction as to be pulling the bolt in a tightening direction. I believe that T.O. 1-1A-8 details the process. I'll see if I can find some good illustrations tomorrow at work. BTW, are the cv bolts drilled for wire or does one need to acquire the proper bolts from somewhere?

[Joe Bob]

Ayupers....me seven....happened on Wyld Thang. Did a re torque and safety wired the damn thangs....fucking PO left them looose........even took pics and posted. I'm too lazy to repost...... :finger2:

[Ctrout]

This

[Ctrout]

And this

[Porsche Rescue]

That gives me a headache. I think I'll stay with new bolts, new Shnorr washers and a torque wrench.

[Mueller]

That gives me a headache. I think I'll stay with new bolts, new Shnorr washers and a torque wrench.

......a word of caution, bleeding will occur if not careful with the so-called safety wire......$hit can be sharp as hell..."we've got a bleeder" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

[914forme]

Saftey wire is king here guys, it is easy to work with, and not much of an extra step after install.

Process is simple drill a hole in hte head of the bolts. You wire so that as one bolt spins out the other will tighten. Easy in words, you just have to think about it when doing it. Oh and the saftey wire plyers make this process so much easier.

Or look at this link.

http://www.whizwheels.com/Tips/safetywiring.html

Cool a new set of tools, and no if you do it correctly they will never come off on there own. But like anything you are now moving your problems else where.

Amd please don't saftey wire your 914 as a cure for rust.

[914forme]

Forgot two things!

1. I can't spell, this is why they invented spell checkers, and to my brian types faster than my hands.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

2. Becareful of the boots it is easy to have one of these wires pop a hole in there. Then you have a new set of problems to deal with.

And Doah, as a Newbie I just learned I can edit my posts.

[maf914]

Due to the angles involved with the rear axles, getting a torque wrench on the CV bolts is not easy. How in the hell do you get the safety wire pliers, safety wire, and your hands into those areas? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

[machina]

Due to the angles involved with the rear axles, getting a torque wrench on the CV bolts is not easy. How in the hell do you get the safety wire pliers, safety wire, and your hands into those areas? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

I use a really long extension, with the wheel removed you have a straight shot at it. At least for the tranny side.

dr

[Brad Roberts]

Mike,

I do the exact opposite of dr. No extentions. Each extension effects the torque readings...

Torque wrench and socket only. Rotate the wheel until you have one CV bolt at the top of the CV area. With the car jacked up the axle will be down and away from the bolt you bring to the top. VERY easy to do. After you torque the first one rotate another one to the top.

Oh. I use a small wooden handle wrapped with a rag and place it between the wheel and brake caliper to hold the wheel/axle from moving. Fast. I also use the wooden handle to hold the tire during valve adjusts.



B

[J P Stein]

That gives me a headache. I think I'll stay with new bolts, new Shnorr washers and a torque wrench.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

I've never had em' come loose. I do check often, tho
Had a gasket go funky once....but the bolts were still tight.

Brad:
"No extentions. Each extension effects the torque readings..."


I don't suppose you're gonna trust me on this, but that statement is....ah.... incorrect.. Speeling sux, too (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

[Brad Roberts]

I forget which "textbook" I read the extensions thing in, but I also had a "professor" of some sort tell me the same thing 4-5 years later. I question everything JP. I know your professional background so I wont argue anything that has to do with "testing".


B

[Brad Roberts]

Oh.. every time I safety wire anything... something breaks the next day that requires me to undo all of it.


B

[Bleyseng]

Is that another of "Brads laws"?

[mightyohm]

Can the triple square bolts be drilled for safety wire without messing up the inner surface of the head?

Are the triple square bolts necessarily any better than the allen type?

[JWest]

As usual, age before beauty (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) - JP is correct.

The extension thing comes from using funky tools like crowsfeet that move the center of rotation of the bolt away from the axis of rotation of the wrench.

It is perfectly acceptable to use typical socket extensions with a torque wrench - you just have to be sure to support the head of the torque wrench as you tighten.

[JWest]

Are the triple square bolts necessarily any better than the allen type?

Quality grade 12.9 hex allen bolts are fine. Triple square are just more interesting.

[yellowFV]

I just pulled my cv joints on my 75 914 1.8 liter car today.... The bolts on my cv joints are an 8 mm spline internal wrenching type bolt...

Could the head of the bolt be safely drilled to accept a ss safety wire... I thought I could run safety wire through the first bolt head and then accross to it's pair.

My original question for the evening was gonna be how do you remove the flanged hub that carries the brake rotor from the control arm / wheel bearing area.

I was gently banging on them with a brass hammer and they were not moving so I backed off.


rob