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McMark |
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#121
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914 Freak! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None ![]() |
Thick.
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Valy |
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#122
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,677 Joined: 6-April 10 From: Sunnyvale, CA Member No.: 11,573 Region Association: Northern California ![]() |
Thanks.
Got my NLA shim few minutes ago so flywheel will get on tonight. |
helowrench |
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#123
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8 Joined: 2-April 12 From: dfw Member No.: 14,331 Region Association: None ![]() |
If you have not already, i would advise that you get those AA barrels heat treated. Theyre notorious for being very soft and im sure you dont want to tear down this baby prematurely! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) What precisely do you do to "heat treat" the barrels? I need to hear more about this. #1 what is the recommended hardness for new, non heat cycled cylinders? #2 I have never heard of doing this to AA cylinders, do we have any past history with doing this? #3 what is the substandard hardness readings being seen out there? Thanks Rob |
wndsrfr |
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#124
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,449 Joined: 30-April 09 From: Rescue, Virginia Member No.: 10,318 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() ![]() |
If you have not already, i would advise that you get those AA barrels heat treated. Theyre notorious for being very soft and im sure you dont want to tear down this baby prematurely! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) What precisely do you do to "heat treat" the barrels? On my last rebuild I picked up a set of used OEM 1.8 cylinders very inexpensively from a member here & had them bored to 96mm. That way they're good metal & all settled down from heat cycling in their original engine....... |
Valy |
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#125
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,677 Joined: 6-April 10 From: Sunnyvale, CA Member No.: 11,573 Region Association: Northern California ![]() |
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r_towle |
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#126
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Custom Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 24,705 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
Green
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Dave_Darling |
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#127
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914 Idiot ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 15,161 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California ![]() ![]() |
I remember most of the Viton o-rings that we used to get were brown. The green and red and black were silicone (different sizes I think?) and weren't as durable.
Things might be different now, though. That was from ten years ago or so. --DD |
porschetub |
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#128
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,816 Joined: 25-July 15 From: New Zealand Member No.: 18,995 Region Association: None ![]() |
Type 1 Oil Pump Installation I've been through the modifications I made to the Type 1 oil pump in a previous post. The Type 1 oil pump is a bit thicker than the original type 4 pump. Therefore, the M8 studs that hold it in the case are a bit too short. I almost replaced them but then I measured them and realized that I can just unscrew them a bit from the case and they will fit. The remaining length inside the case is sufficient to hold the pump (needs to be over 7 threads or 8.125mm since it's an aluminum case) I fitted the pump case with the thick gasket I made and sealant, then I installed the driving gear and the idle gear and finally the cover with more sealant. Good work,sorry to mention it but a steel type 1 pump cover is better,the alloy one you have will wear and cause a loss of pressure later on, buy a used one and resurface it on a sheet of glass and some wet and dry sandpaper works a treat,cheers. |
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