rear lug conversion, 911 stub axles and hubs Options

[jgiroux67]

Will the stub axles and rear wheel hubs from a 77 911 work on a 73 2.0 914. It says they will fit 108mm cv joints.

[Dave Bell]

Need everything from the 911,

5 lug hubs, Axels and tranny drive flange that slips into 901 transaxle and mates to 911 CV.

Only potential problem issue is that the 911 axles are shorter than the 914.

Solutions:
- Custom Axle
- Spacer
- Run with shorter axle and use the CV play to take up the difference.

The early 911 is the same as the Turbo 930 and the CV is the same size as well.

I believe that the off-road buggy crowd has often used the 930 because of the large CV motion range, thus it should be possible just to have the CV take up all the slack. Brad or others should chime in here since they know lots more on this topic.


- Dave

[Dave Bell]

Inside Wheel Hub 2

[Dave Bell]

Outside 5-lug hub

[Dave Bell]

Short 911 Axels

[Dave Bell]

Short 911 Axles 2

[Dave Bell]

Tranny output flange to mate to 911 axle... just slide right in.

[ClayPerrine]

Using 911 axles is a really good way to blow a CV joint at full droop or full compression. If you are going to use a 911 axle the only proper way to use it is to add spacers between the inboard CV and the drive flange.

Another alternative is to use this combination of parts, listed from the hub inward:

69 911 axle flange.
944 turbo stub axle and CV joint (same splines as the 911 axle flange, bigget CV joint)
914/4 axle shaft (splined the same as the inside of a 944 turbo CV joint)
944 turbo CV joint
75 911 drive flange off a 915 transmission. (same size as the CV joint, and it bolts to the 914 transmission).

This gets you larger, thicker CV joints, without the worry of them coming apart at full droop.

This combination of parts was found by Wes Hildreth of H&H in Plano, TX. He has been working on 914's since they were new. I have seen this and it fits real well. I bought all the pieces for my 914 after seeing the set he has. Wes was the one who told me about the CV joints getting damaged by the too short axles. He says that the CV joint was designed to run in the center, and when you run it too far to one edge for extended periods, it will drastically shorten the life of the joint.

[jim912928]

Or.....use the 911 hub, get a 914-6 or replica stub axle from mittlemotor and use the rest of the 914-4 parts (axle, cv's...). I purchased the mittlemotor stub axles and everything just bolted right up using the hubs from a 71 911.

[Aaron Cox]

Or.....use the 911 hub, get a 914-6 or replica stub axle from mittlemotor and use the rest of the 914-4 parts (axle, cv's...). I purchased the mittlemotor stub axles and everything just bolted right up using the hubs from a 71 911.

that had to be expensive (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) , why didnt you just use machined/restudded 914 hubs. you have a /4 right? so why not do it the easier/cheaper way?

[Mueller]

so why not do it the easier/cheaper way?

spoken like a true 914 owner, hahahahaha

thanks for the parts list Clay !!!

[Aaron Cox]

so why not do it the easier/cheaper way?

spoken like a true 914 owner, hahahahaha

thanks for the parts list Clay !!!

easier/cheaper/and equally safe

just tryin to save him some dough....

oh well.
cheap and easy is what i do.... (no- im not a hooker)

[Eric_Shea]

To answer the original question:

No... from what I understand the 77 hub will not work. The 911 wheel bearings changed in 1974. Prior to that they shared the same bearing with the 914.

As I see it there are 3 options depending on how you look at it:

1. Redrill your 914 hubs to 130mm 5-lug. People have speculated that this may be a weak link but NONE have failed to date. This is the most cost effective option. You retain your entire setup with the exception of your 4-lug wheels and 4-lug rotor. You will need 5-lug 914-6 rotors moving forward. Some have claimed clearance problems with the 914-4 rear caliper and the 914-6 rotor. The diameter of the 6 rotor is slightly larger. Others have reported no problems. I would check the final fit and grind the caliper if need be not the rotor.

2. Get an "early" 911 rear hub (up to 1973) and get the 914-6 stub axle as recommended here in this post. There are various sources but Mittlemotor does seem to have the best price. You will have the same issues with the 914-6 rotor unless you move up to the unobtainium 914-6 rear calipers (you can find them, they are simply and absolutely not worth the money they are commanding these days).

3. The 911/914/944 combo as Clay suggested in his post. This would be best if you have a high horsepower application. You're 901 will still be a weak link but you can bet your CV's won't. Same rotor/caliper issues.

I'm sure there's more options out there (adapters and such) but these are the best and most reasonable I've found.

[Eric_Shea]

thanks for the parts list Clay !!!

Why? You going 5-lug now?? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

[jim912928]

For me, I already had 71 911 rear hubs from a previous project. And I got the 914-6 stub axles used (they were purchased and never used) at a really really decent price. So, that was actually the cheapest route for me.

[Eric_Shea]

For me, I already had 71 911 rear hubs from a previous project. And I got the 914-6 stub axles used (they were purchased and never used) at a really really decent price. So, that was actually the cheapest route for me.

Hilarious... I went the "exact" same route. I purschased new alloy trailing arms for the 911 and I had the extra hubs. Got my stubs for $175.00 so that worked out well.

If'n I had to do it again without those parts I'd go the redrill route... hands down.

If massive power was an issue (big 6 or V8) I'd go the Clay/H&H route... hands down.