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> Apollo Racer Build Thread, EZ36 Build-Up with ITB's!
ruby914
post Mar 7 2014, 01:10 PM
Post #101


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First off, thanks to all for the good words on my shroud. I am flattered.

From what I understood of the FP controller is it was there because the fuel demand at idle and WOT is quite different. No need to have the system at full pressure at idle.
I thought it had 3 different duty cycles. Could be only 2?

I had a fuel pressure gauge on my car, in the start, but it is no longer on the car.
Best I remember is 45 PSI at idle. It may ramp up near 100 PSI at WOT?
Edit: (I just found the old gauge, it's stuck at 20 PSI. So there is no telling what pressure at idle was.)

I was going to go get a new pressure gauge last week because my car suddenly just quit.
It was dark but everything seemed fine (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif). Air, fuel, spark??
Sitting in the drivers seat, I reached under the glove box and wiggled the wires to the controller, they all felt fine. Originally my controller plug was cut from the harness so I used individual spade plugs, figured that could be the problem.
It started so I started driving home. It died again on the way home. I wiggled it again. It felt fine, started, drove home.
Still no pressure gauge but I have not had a problem with it.

My thought on yours. With out a turbo, it's just not needed.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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rnellums
post Mar 12 2014, 09:34 PM
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I am continuing on with the harness, I have finally gotten all the wrap off it and will begin stripping it down tomorrow! Holy cow my fingers hurt!


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76-914
post Mar 13 2014, 07:05 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) I for got how long it takes just to strip the sheathing. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif) FWIW, I as reading some Suby stuff the other nite and apparently it was used on '03 sixes. I didn't see any mention of it's use on any other 6 so................. who knows?
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rnellums
post Mar 13 2014, 09:16 AM
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I used a bit of filter magic on an earlier post of mine.
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Chris H.
post Mar 13 2014, 09:39 AM
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QUOTE(76-914 @ Mar 13 2014, 08:05 AM) *

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) I for got how long it takes just to strip the sheathing. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif) FWIW, I as reading some Suby stuff the other nite and apparently it was used on '03 sixes. I didn't see any mention of it's use on any other 6 so................. who knows?


Yeah I'm getting flashbacks...that was mind-numbing.

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Whatever you do don't take the wires off the hooks! Leave it organized like you have it. I had a spaghetti mess. Totally my fault.

Hey Ross I keep forgetting to mention an idea for a floor vent air exit when I was going that route...just to minimize the water situation in the trunk and the air directed back instead of down I was going to try some louvered panels in the floor. This link just shows an example, not the ones I was planning to use...not sure if that would be enough holes but there are a lot of sizes and widths you can pick from. Or you could get a custom set punched in a flat panel (no idea what that costs... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) ).

Louvers
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rnellums
post Mar 15 2014, 08:12 AM
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It's getting there! Hopefully just a couple more days of work!

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rnellums
post Apr 2 2014, 08:30 PM
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I've finally gotten the harness trimmed to about there I want it. It will need a few more wires removed, but I'm going to make sure it starts first!
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I also got the turnbuckle belt tensioner working. I tested the fit tonight, tomorrow I'll cut off the eye loops and weld on flat brackets in their place. It should work with cars running AC too, just a slightly different belt routing.
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76-914
post Apr 3 2014, 08:52 AM
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Once you finish that harness you want to go get drunk. Good job, Ross. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)
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Chris H.
post Apr 4 2014, 06:35 AM
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Hey thanks for posting that tensioner! I need to make one of those. Tried to find a belt that was exactly the right diameter but it still slipped and squeaked like crazy.
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rnellums
post Apr 4 2014, 08:13 AM
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It works pretty well! The belt I used is a Dayco 6PK0730. 29.4 in outer diameter. I'll let you know about the squeaking once I get it started up!
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2mAn
post Apr 4 2014, 10:57 AM
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Amazing how much extra crap there is in a wiring harness!
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ruby914
post Apr 4 2014, 01:09 PM
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[quote name='rnellums' date='Apr 2 2014, 07:30 PM' post='2019776']
I've finally gotten the harness trimmed to about there I want it. It will need a few more wires removed, but I'm going to make sure it starts first!

Is that the SUPER MULTIPLE JUNCTION (SMJ) with just one wire going through it? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
From 40 wires down to one. Almost there (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

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76-914
post Apr 4 2014, 02:58 PM
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No SMJ in that pic. It gets tossed.
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rnellums
post Apr 20 2014, 08:28 PM
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Made lots of progress this weekend! I have gotten the gas tank pretty much buttoned up, and am starting to get the engine in position so I can figure out what I'll need to do to get it to fit.

So first: the gas tank.

I borrowed pretty heavily from Kent's thread on his install of the subie fuel pump (from a legacy I think?) the biggest difference in mine is that I wanted to use the EZ30 fuel pump, but the pickup was too short.
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I ended up modifying it with a bit of flared copper tubing to extend the pickup and place it where I wanted it. I'm using the stock 914 fuel screen clamped to the end of my copper pipe as a strainer.
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When I started fitting the pump to the tank it was wide enough that the side of the tank started to round off, making installing the rivnuts difficult. I ended up bending and pounding the mounting area flat before installing the pump.
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rnellums
post Apr 20 2014, 08:50 PM
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Also, a glamour shot of the "Heaven hole" and the engine getting into position for the first trial fit!

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Chris H.
post Apr 21 2014, 06:33 AM
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You're working fast! The tank looks great. Hey if you're planning to copy Kent's hose sizes like I am (which are a copy of Bob's) let me know. I have 50 FEET of 7/8 Gates green stripe indestructible hose that I got for very little. Can send you 15 feet or so if you want.
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76-914
post Apr 21 2014, 02:59 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif) Looks good, Ross. Did you get a pic of how you tied the copper in at the pump? I'm trying to remember what the problem was with it when I tried to use that same pump. IIRC, I was planning on using some surgical tube to connect their plastic sock to the pick up tube. As a matter of fact, I still have that tube in a glass jar filled with gasoline. I wanted to see if there was any degradation of the tube in gas. That was Sept 1, 2013. I'll pull it on it's anniversary to check again. It was fine after 3 mo's., though. Does that fuel sender need to be spun 180? Did you finish your wiring? If so, where did you connect the WL wire tagged "starter cranking"? Yellow starter wire or switched ign?
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rnellums
post Apr 21 2014, 10:23 PM
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QUOTE(Chris H. @ Apr 21 2014, 06:33 AM) *

You're working fast! The tank looks great. Hey if you're planning to copy Kent's hose sizes like I am (which are a copy of Bob's) let me know. I have 50 FEET of 7/8 Gates green stripe indestructible hose that I got for very little. Can send you 15 feet or so if you want.

I'm afraid I already bought some hose (wish I hadn't now!) but I appreciate the offer!

QUOTE(76-914 @ Apr 21 2014, 02:59 PM) *

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif) Looks good, Ross. Did you get a pic of how you tied the copper in at the pump? I'm trying to remember what the problem was with it when I tried to use that same pump. IIRC, I was planning on using some surgical tube to connect their plastic sock to the pick up tube. As a matter of fact, I still have that tube in a glass jar filled with gasoline. I wanted to see if there was any degradation of the tube in gas. That was Sept 1, 2013. I'll pull it on it's anniversary to check again. It was fine after 3 mo's., though. Does that fuel sender need to be spun 180? Did you finish your wiring? If so, where did you connect the WL wire tagged "starter cranking"? Yellow starter wire or switched ign?


Kent, I dont have a great photo of it, but I'll attempt to explain with these. The stock fuel pump has a tiny outlet nub, too short to reliably attache a fuel hose to IMO. The stock fuel strainer is a fitted plastic cap with an elbow headed to the strainer. In Subaru's wisdom the tube headed to the strainer is U-shaped so you can't attach a hose to that either. What I did was cut the strainer fixture at the elbow, insert it over the copper before I flared it, and then use the stock strainer fixture to clamp the flared copper in place. I added a spring washer as well to improve the clamping force.

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For the fuel sender, I am contemplating shorting it and eliminating the float and sender circuit altogether. Do you see any issues with that? I haven't finished up the wiring yet, but I'll probably go to the yellow starter wire, I'm not aware of any other connections that are only hot in the "start" key position.
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76-914
post Apr 22 2014, 07:53 AM
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I don't see any issues with shit canning those two items. You have the stock sender to use. I thought that the WL wire might go to that tab on the ign switch that goes dead when cranking but is otherwise hot in the on position. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) I guess the ECU interprets that signal. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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rnellums
post Apr 29 2014, 07:36 PM
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I finally got the engine in! No clearance issues to speak of as far as fit goes. I'll have to cut some space for the intake, and likely a bit of the top of the cable clutch fork, but the engine is in! Only 4 inches of ground clearance though, and even less once the exhaust is hung below it.

Is there a minimum clearance for lowered cars?


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