Apollo Racer Build Thread, EZ36 Build-Up with ITB's! Options

[rnellums]

I also got an OBX exhaust in today. It's SS, and I'll probably end up cutting it after the flex joints and going straight into supertraps instead of all the way to the collector. what about cutting it before the flex joints? Thoughts?

[76-914]

Ross, would you mind adding another pic like the first one but with a ruler next to it. I'm interested in the distance between the top of the flange and the bottom and top of the pipe once it goes horizontal. IOW, I want to see how close to the ground the bottom of the exhaust would be on my car. We have different cradles so I need to measure to see if theirs would work for me. BTW, how much ground clearance did you end up with? TIA, Kent

EDIT: Never mind on the clearance. I went back one page and read your comment on this. I ended up w/ 5" as I believe Chris' was, too. This is what the distance from the old cooling flap to ground clearance was, also. Have you adjusted your shock perches, yet?

[rnellums]

I have attached the pic with a measure. These headers are pretty tall. If I go ahead and use them what is currently about 4.5' ground clearance will be reduced to 3". I checked ride height compared to my stock -4 and the two car are pretty similar (although the race car is much stiffer).

[76-914]

Ross, that looks to be about 6" from the top of the flange to the bottom of the pipe, yes?

[rnellums]

Ross, that looks to be about 6" from the top of the flange to the bottom of the pipe, yes?

Really its nearly 7, I plan on ovaling the bottom of the pipe a bit to get more clearance.

[76-914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/hijacked.gif) I wonder if they will sell the flange w/ the oval to round piece that has the O2 bung welded in. That would help me a lot. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) I want to go over the cradle with my exhaust for ground clearance and ease of removal when dropping the drivetrain. I think I could make those work if sold separately. High Jack over and out.

[rnellums]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/hijacked.gif) I wonder if they will sell the flange w/ the oval to round piece that has the O2 bung welded in. That would help me a lot. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) I want to go over the cradle with my exhaust for ground clearance and ease of removal when dropping the drivetrain. I think I could make those work if sold separately. High Jack over and out.

To be honest that's why I ordered the exhaust in the first place. I figured there would be some customization. I'd like to run the exhaust over my subframe, but am a bit worried about driveshaft interference.

[76-914]

I don't think that will be an issue but I haven't seen one of Ian's cradles either. FWIW, they make exhaust fittings in 45, 90, 180 and even 360 degree (full circle). I want to use a 2.5" dia 360 degree cut it to give me two 165 degree fittings which will bring me up and over my cradle as well as a bit towards the outside.

[BIGKAT_83]

Made some more of these up. 2.5" tubing . These turned out to be 4" high from the base of the flange to the bottom of the tube. Going to use these on my turbo install.
Its no trouble to weld O2 sensor bungs into the pipes.


Bob

[rnellums]

So I have seen in a couple places that the intake on the EZ30 can't be flipped, which makes it a pain since the intake then rests right next to the trunk firewall, but this image seems to say differently. And anyone here tried flipping it? I gather there might be some casting lugs that need to be ground off, and the alternator will need to be relocated, but any other reasons?

[76-914]

So I have seen in a couple places that the intake on the EZ30 can't be flipped, which makes it a pain since the intake then rests right next to the trunk firewall, but this image seems to say differently. And anyone here tried flipping it? I gather there might be some casting lugs that need to be ground off, and the alternator will need to be relocated, but any other reasons?

Isn't yours a "D" model? I don't think that is a D in the pic.

[rnellums]

So I have seen in a couple places that the intake on the EZ30 can't be flipped, which makes it a pain since the intake then rests right next to the trunk firewall, but this image seems to say differently. And anyone here tried flipping it? I gather there might be some casting lugs that need to be ground off, and the alternator will need to be relocated, but any other reasons?

Isn't yours a "D" model? I don't think that is a D in the pic.

Yes, Pictured is an "R", but the ports are similar enough. I'm thinking It may be possible to flip the Aluminum manifold as well. It may just require grinding down the extraneous casting on the aluminum manifold at top right.

[76-914]

I decided against it for some reason that I can't recall, now. Either it was not worth the effort of I saw something that said no-way. It's hard to cut on a nice body but once you do the next cuts are easy. It should not protrude into the rear trunk too far. Maybe 3"? Maybe BIGKAT 83 will chime in.

[Porscharu73]

This was done with a eg33 also by Brody from 914s gone wild with a clean cut

Here's my set up with the ez30r with it flipped same guy who is helping me build mine built the eg33

[76-914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) Hey Ross, I figured you went to shit and the Hogs gotcha! Then I read where you are polishing Calypso for the show. When are you going to get back on your conversion? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

[rnellums]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) Hey Ross, I figured you went to shit and the Hogs gotcha! Then I read where you are polishing Calypso for the show. When are you going to get back on your conversion? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

I've been working, just not photographing! I've built up the fan shroud and radiator mount and completed running the fuel lines (using the same bent hardline technique you used). The fuel pump and tank are totally in now, and all I need to do to finish up the coolant system is to bend up some aluminum tube (which I already have) in the locations where the rubber hose is kinking!

I'll see if I can snap some photos tonight and get them up!

[rnellums]

About time for an update. I am finally starting the final wiring process. I hooked it up and turned it over just powering the starter last night. Then I hooked up the fuel pump and I can't seem to build pressure, I suspect due to a leak at the sketchy pickup I cobbled together. I've new parts for that en route, but decided to take some spare time and make note of the ECU pin-outs.

[rnellums]

Here is my intended engine wiring circuit for power distribution!

[rnellums]

A couple of photos of my cooling setup. I made up an aluminum shroud that sits directly under the radiator, and have bolted the high flow SPAL fan to the other side, so I'm afraid you can't see much.

I know the cons of venting through the floor, and would prefer to vent into the wheel arches, but I already had a hole there from the PO, so I'll use it for now.

The radiator is a clean Volvo unit. I think out of the 240's. Its small, but thicker than stock. Hopefully The fan is able to pull enough air!

The coolant hoses will both return under the gas tank and then be routed back through the longs. I have more robust elbows coming for the tight bends so it won't kink as ween in the last photo and rubber edge protector for everywhere i basses through bulkhead.

[76-914]

You have been working! FWIW, flaps have these small spring thingies that slip over the hose and will keep it from kinking. Or, use old pieces of wet vac hose which will also guard against abrasion.