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> Apollo Racer Build Thread, EZ36 Build-Up with ITB's!
rnellums
post Feb 2 2015, 10:22 AM
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QUOTE(BIGKAT_83 @ Feb 2 2015, 08:32 AM) *

I've had both engines in my car. I think the EZ30D is faster than the EG33. The main reason I went from the EG33 to the EZ30 was the size and avialblity of parts for the new engine verses the old one.

I also have a EZ30R engine. These are the one to have 250HP. Megasquirt now has the code to run these. Now you don't need a $2500+ ECU swap these into a 914

The 30R will be my engine of choice for the next upgrade then! How much continual tuning is required when running megasquirt?
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BIGKAT_83
post Feb 2 2015, 11:35 AM
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QUOTE(rnellums @ Feb 2 2015, 11:22 AM) *

QUOTE(BIGKAT_83 @ Feb 2 2015, 08:32 AM) *

I've had both engines in my car. I think the EZ30D is faster than the EG33. The main reason I went from the EG33 to the EZ30 was the size and avialblity of parts for the new engine verses the old one.

I also have a EZ30R engine. These are the one to have 250HP. Megasquirt now has the code to run these. Now you don't need a $2500+ ECU swap these into a 914

The 30R will be my engine of choice for the next upgrade then! How much continual tuning is required when running megasquirt?


I have not touched the megasquirt on my EZ30D in over a year.

Bob
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914GTSTI
post Feb 2 2015, 01:49 PM
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Here is another souse for exhaust parts.
http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/exhaust_systems.htm
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914forme
post Feb 3 2015, 01:48 PM
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QUOTE(914GTSTI @ Feb 1 2015, 04:00 PM) *

Don't know if you read this ? May help with the heating problem ? Motor is a 33 and may not apply.


Here is the summary page for the entire heating issue it might still be valid for other subaru engines.

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rnellums
post Feb 8 2015, 06:27 PM
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Im working on a set of headers that gives me more ground clearance and also is a bit freer flowing. With 2.5" pipes this is the best I could do to clear Ian's sub frame. I have some 2" pipe bends that might be able to exit a bit straighter, but are much smaller diameter.

I could also modify Ians cradle to buy some more room.

Any input is appreciated!


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914forme
post Feb 8 2015, 08:03 PM
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They look nice, I like them, would love to see it bolted to the engine and how its going the thread through the cold water cradle. Still haven't figured out why Subaru went back to a common port? But heck 250 HP it must be working for them.
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JRust
post Feb 8 2015, 08:28 PM
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QUOTE(rnellums @ Feb 8 2015, 04:27 PM) *

Im working on a set of headers that gives me more ground clearance and also is a bit freer flowing. With 2.5" pipes this is the best I could do to clear Ian's sub frame. I have some 2" pipe bends that might be able to exit a bit straighter, but are much smaller diameter.

I could also modify Ians cradle to buy some more room.

Any input is appreciated!

I think the only way to not have it drop below the cradle. Is to bring the headers to the front (towards firewall) Then join them or keep them separate but loop them back Down the sides above the cradle. Doable with a pipe bender. Another reason I was thinking of either doing a different mount that came from the firewall. Or bringing my exhaust forward then wrapping it around back. I hate that it drops below my cradle
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rnellums
post Feb 8 2015, 08:43 PM
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QUOTE(914forme @ Feb 8 2015, 07:03 PM) *

They look nice, I like them, would love to see it bolted to the engine and how its going the thread through the cold water cradle. Still haven't figured out why Subaru went back to a common port? But heck 250 HP it must be working for them.


I'll see if I can get that shot.

QUOTE(JRust @ Feb 8 2015, 07:28 PM) *

I think the only way to not have it drop below the cradle. Is to bring the headers to the front (towards firewall) Then join them or keep them separate but loop them back Down the sides above the cradle. Doable with a pipe bender. Another reason I was thinking of either doing a different mount that came from the firewall. Or bringing my exhaust forward then wrapping it around back. I hate that it drops below my cradle


I looked at that, but with the water line return and shift cables where they ate at that looks like a big headache.

As built these come back up above the cradle and should be able to head above the axles from there.

The whole thing should work or pretty smoothly, but I'm wondering how much power I would lose by having such a sharp angle right at the exit.
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rnellums
post Feb 8 2015, 09:39 PM
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With the current header mounted on the engine


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mgp4591
post Feb 8 2015, 10:07 PM
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I'm wondering about that angle too... and if it's really that close to your inside CV boot the heat is gonna be a problem. Subaru has a similar heat problem on the r. inner boot because it sits right above the headpipe Y and catalytic converter- lots of heat. How about a large pipe section, like 3-4 inch schedule 40 pipe intersecting the cradle for your pipe to pass through at a different angle? You could gusset it also for extra strength... I can't see all the angles so I may be way off base on that suggestion. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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rnellums
post Feb 8 2015, 10:17 PM
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It's not quite as close to the CV as it looks in the photos, but I'll have to insulate it somehow. I thought about welding in a pass through, I may go that route if this doesn't look promising.
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JRust
post Feb 8 2015, 10:49 PM
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That looks better than I expected Ross. I was still picturing it looping under the cradle. I think that is going to work just fine. I don't think the angle of the header where it comes off the head will cause any flow problems either. I think you'll be golden with that man. Can't wait to see the finished product (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)
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Chris H.
post Feb 9 2015, 07:17 AM
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If you like the way it turns out you should get it ceramic coated to reduce the exterior heat. Much better than wrapping it.
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914forme
post Feb 9 2015, 07:34 AM
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I like it, get it all tacked up. Weld it up outside the car, clean it up. Get it ceramic coated, then have an inner coating applied. And if need be make a heat shield around the CVs. area, it only takes a small gap to protect. And if you Coat it also, thats a plus.

Eastwood makes a DIY coating for the inside of your exhaust.Eastwood internal exhust coating and heat barrier.

I have not used it.
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gryphon68
post Feb 9 2015, 11:25 AM
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Looks pretty good. Hoping to have the need to refer back to this thread soon. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

It's nice how the slash cut gave a nice port shape opening.

Would be nice to get the pipe pointed slightly more outboard to maximize the clearance to the boot.

I was looking something like this as a possible option:

http://www.pro-werks.com/partdetail/C76-568/

They are pricey, but can solve problems the normal off the shelf bends can't.
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mgp4591
post Feb 9 2015, 11:31 AM
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QUOTE(gryphon68 @ Feb 9 2015, 10:25 AM) *

Looks pretty good. Hoping to have the need to refer back to this thread soon. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

It's nice how the slash cut gave a nice port shape opening.

Would be nice to get the pipe pointed slightly more outboard to maximize the clearance to the boot.

I was looking something like this as a possible option:

http://www.pro-werks.com/partdetail/C76-568/

They are pricey, but can solve problems the normal off the shelf bends can't.

I've used those donuts and they work great for the tight angles and keeping flow rates up without restriction. Well worth the cash!
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gryphon68
post Feb 9 2015, 12:10 PM
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Maybe cut here and clock the pipe outboard?

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rnellums
post Feb 9 2015, 02:03 PM
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QUOTE(gryphon68 @ Feb 9 2015, 10:25 AM) *


Would be nice to get the pipe pointed slightly more outboard to maximize the clearance to the boot.

I was looking something like this as a possible option:

http://www.pro-werks.com/partdetail/C76-568/

They are pricey, but can solve problems the normal off the shelf bends can't.


The tube does need to be massaged a bit to fit the opening, but nothing that can't be handled by a hammer and some pliers!

Those bends are sweet! Unfortunately one doughnut is more than I have paid for everything so far!

It might be worth it though to minimize the restrictions! Maybe I'll use it for the second exhaust revision!

As far as going more outboard, the clearance gets worse and worse the further out you go due to the cradle supports. My clearance off the cv is fair, the photos make it look close than it really is.

I plan to do a flange at the end of the first bend to make installation simpler, which should make fabricating a new header sub using doughnuts a bit easier if I do that route down the line.



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rnellums
post Feb 9 2015, 08:20 PM
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I welded the headers up tonight. The weeks are a bit taller than I'd like, but I think they'll hold.


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rnellums
post Feb 10 2015, 09:54 PM
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I got my O2 sensor bungs welded in tonight.

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I have a pair of magnaflow 6" dia x 6" long race mufflers that I slid over the header ends as a gut check. The exhaust had a nice deep rumble, but was still pretty loud. Video at link below.

EZ30 with Magnaflow Race Mufflers

I'm thinking I'll need a bit more muffling, but the dual in/out setup I wanted to try won't fit behind the transmission. It looks like I'll be sticking with dual straight exits, but I'll go to a larger 6"dia muffler, like magnaflow's 12616.
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