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> SSI heat exchanger warning
914ltd
post Oct 6 2011, 06:34 AM
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I posted this last year, heating season is here again. These are big cracks, a tiny one you would not be able to hear would still be dangerous. These are not accident damaged. If you have a set on your car, grab the carbon monoxide detector from home and take a ride with the heat on and windows rolled up. There is a detector used in small aircraft also available. The last photo is how we now test for leaks using air pressure. Brad


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mepstein
post Oct 6 2011, 06:43 AM
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So just the shell is stainless?
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rick 918-S
post Oct 6 2011, 06:50 AM
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Hey nice rack! -Celette
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Thanks Brad! I have seen a set like that. Just because you have SS exhaust does mean they are not fatigued.
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jimkelly
post Oct 6 2011, 06:51 AM
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i believe the pipes are stainless too - a magnet should not stick - some though do have steel muffler flanges.

i assume high heat is hard on stainless ??

brad - how frequent would you say this is ??

would capping one end off and filling them with water be a good enough test ??

jim

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wingnut86
post Oct 6 2011, 07:27 AM
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Just assuming here, but is the washer/rubber dongle for a compression seal fitting for the opposite end of the hookah? If so, where did you source the rubber puck? Also, what's the max pressure for the volume and an acceptable drop over "?" Time?

Sorry for the soliloquee(sp)...
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Dave
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rick 918-S
post Oct 6 2011, 07:40 AM
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Hey nice rack! -Celette
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QUOTE(wingnut86 @ Oct 6 2011, 08:27 AM) *

Just assuming here, but is the washer/rubber dongle for a compression seal fitting for the opposite end of the hookah? If so, where did you source the rubber puck? Also, what's the max pressure for the volume and an acceptable drop over "?" Time?

Sorry for the soliloquee(sp)...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)


Dave


Those are available in the hardware store I think. Tighten the nut and they squish and expand. Also automotive emergency freeze plugs.
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VRROOMM1
post Oct 6 2011, 07:42 AM
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QUOTE(wingnut86 @ Oct 6 2011, 09:27 AM) *

Just assuming here, but is the washer/rubber dongle for a compression seal fitting for the opposite end of the hookah? If so, where did you source the rubber puck? Also, what's the max pressure for the volume and an acceptable drop over "?" Time?

Sorry for the soliloquee(sp)...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
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76-914
post Oct 6 2011, 07:47 AM
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QUOTE(wingnut86 @ Oct 6 2011, 06:27 AM) *

Just assuming here, but is the washer/rubber dongle for a compression seal fitting for the opposite end of the hookah? If so, where did you source the rubber puck? Also, what's the max pressure for the volume and an acceptable drop over "?" Time?

Sorry for the soliloquee(sp)...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Dave


Or in the plumbing section. aka wing nut test plug. These are great detectors and affordable. They start at $3-$4. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php
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wingnut86
post Oct 6 2011, 07:52 AM
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Great responses. All noted in my broken Carolina Anglish...

Thoughts on the 2nd part of the question? I can look in the Factory manual when I get home if you guys think it's in there...

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tradisrad
post Oct 6 2011, 07:53 AM
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I've seen a cracked one.
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dlee6204
post Oct 6 2011, 08:16 AM
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This is a great thing to check. Thanks for posting this. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)
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914ltd
post Oct 6 2011, 09:04 AM
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QUOTE(mepstein @ Oct 6 2011, 04:43 AM) *

So just the shell is stainless?


Jim The whole heat exchanger is stainless except the earlier muffler flanges. The pipes are a magnetic stainless (304?)
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SLITS
post Oct 6 2011, 09:14 AM
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QUOTE(914ltd @ Oct 6 2011, 08:04 AM) *

QUOTE(mepstein @ Oct 6 2011, 04:43 AM) *

So just the shell is stainless?


Jim The whole heat exchanger is stainless except the earlier muffler flanges. The pipes are a magnetic stainless (304?)


Brad, 304 would be non-magnetic as I remember. 400 or 500 series would be magnetic (more iron, less nickel - from my days in the restaurant equipment industry).
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914ltd
post Oct 6 2011, 09:22 AM
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QUOTE(jimkelly @ Oct 6 2011, 04:51 AM) *

i believe the pipes are stainless too - a magnet should not stick - some though do have steel muffler flanges.

i assume high heat is hard on stainless ??

brad - how frequent would you say this is ??

would capping one end off and filling them with water be a good enough test ??

jim

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SSI says the heat and salt caused this but I have heard from owners in no salt areas with this problem.
Frequency? I pitched a couple before I cut these open but I have probably sold 50 used pair since they became available in the 70's.
Any method including water should work but there is a possibility of a tiny crack not showing with air or water.

I don't have set test procedure for the air pressure, we use 10 psi, the time period until the air bleeds off mostly depends how good the test plugs work.
Be careful not to aim the expanding rubber plug (hardware store item) at anything during test! Brad
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jaxdream
post Oct 6 2011, 09:31 AM
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One way of using this method is to hold each pluged end in a bucket or tub of water to see if the seal is leaking thereby eliminating the question if the pressure drops is it coming out of the pluged ends , kinda like the old tire puncture location test. This should be very doable for folks wanting too check their heat exchangers , great idea that I will do when the time comes to use / not use mine . carbon monoxide= DEATH. Recently some folks in a town north of me died in a RV from a faulty generator exhaust , this happened over night , next morn they were gone , 5 peeps total . Also on another trip to an event where tents were allowed , a fella , his son ,and his son's friend didn't wake the next morn because of using equipment inside the tent , dew sealed the tent so it couldn't breath and they were gone also.
Thanks Brad for posting this procedure as it may help a lot of guys as to the usability of thier heat exchangers. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

Jack
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avidfanjpl
post Oct 6 2011, 12:11 PM
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Sounds like we should see if someone is willing to make new SSHE's even though the price would be PRICEY.

Racer Chris at Tangerine?

ALL Stainless?

Something to consider.

Life is good, but CO is bad.

I don't use heat, but this scared me good. I checked mine when off the car last spring by filling them up with water and looking for leaks pipe by pipe, but it was all good, still, no fun to gas oneself unknowingly.

John
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flipb
post Oct 6 2011, 12:21 PM
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I've previously gotten oil (from a leak) into the SSHE's. As it's burned off, I've seen smoke through the ventilation system occasionally.

The oil leak was fixed about 300 miles ago - I think/hope - with new pushrod tube seals.

If I drive around with my heat on and a CO detector, will it go off due to the remaining oil residue? Or will it actually tell me whether my pipes are leaking?
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GeorgeRud
post Oct 6 2011, 01:44 PM
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As these cars age, things do wear out. Even things you think would last forever.
Probably time to get a simple carbon monoxide detector - this stuff can kill you very easily.

Thanks for posting this important information, Brad
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RFoulds
post Oct 6 2011, 02:00 PM
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if you dont need the heat, simply remove the hose from heat exchange to flap box, and manually push the flap all the way closed. Or, remove the flap box too, and put a cover plate over the heat/defrost opening. No more worries.

However, if you need the heat. Move..
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ConeDodger
post Oct 6 2011, 02:33 PM
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Some where all stainless others were not. I recall when I sold a set of brand new in box SSI heat exchangers, the buyer wanted me to check the flange with a magnet. They were all stainless but another set I had were not.
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