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> Zach's Carbs to Microsquirt conversion thread, 7/20/18 update
McMark
post May 10 2015, 09:17 AM
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QUOTE(aircooledtechguy @ May 9 2015, 11:54 PM) *

Great news Zach!! If you are using a VR sensor, remember that it will only work with the wires in the right order. So if you get nothing when you crank it, flip the wires around and try again.

In MicroSquirt, maybe others, you can switch this in software by switching the triggering from Going High to Going Low, or visa-versa.
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VaccaRabite
post May 10 2015, 09:36 PM
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Well, found the issue!
Something is wrong with either the throttle position sensor or the wires for the throttle position sensor.

I thought I'd have an easy night hooking back up all the leads. Some of them are not easy to get to.

Turn the key, and no fuel pump. Dammit! I am now using the fuel pump as my dowsing rod. If it turns on foe a few seconds, I'm confident that the brain is working.

Take off a lead and try the pump. One by one. I got the point where I thought I had all the leads off and was starting to get really angry when I noticed the TPS tucked deep in there. Took that lead off and the fuel pump came back.

So, I'm going to replace the sensor, as I really doubt its the wires. I also happen to have another TPS on hand. But not tonight. Its 11:30 on a work night. I gotta get my ass in bed.

Frustrating, but at least I found the issue. I wish I had found it a month ago while the car was at Tony's shop.

Zach
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toon1
post May 10 2015, 11:50 PM
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Are you saying the fuel pump turns on because of the TPS?

They should have noting to do with eachother
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crash914
post May 11 2015, 02:44 AM
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shorted wires in the TPS, drawing down the operating voltage, fuel pump relay won't kick in for the short prime cycle.

fuel pump is a good test to see if the cpu is functioning correctly as it has full voltage...
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914_teener
post May 11 2015, 07:30 AM
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QUOTE(crash914 @ May 11 2015, 01:44 AM) *

shorted wires in the TPS, drawing down the operating voltage, fuel pump relay won't kick in for the short prime cycle.

fuel pump is a good test to see if the cpu is functioning correctly as it has full voltage...



Just like D.jet. No fuel pump no tickee.
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VaccaRabite
post May 11 2015, 06:00 PM
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Replaced the TPS after work today. Tested it and and the fuel pump kicked over! We are in business.

Before I had to start being Dad, I was able to get the rest of the harness plugged back in, and turned the key for a quick test. The fuel pump kicked on just like it should.

I'm close to first start. Stuff left to do:
1) Calibrate sensors (TPS, AIT, CHT... I have a feeling I should have done this earlier, but I think I can do this with the sensors in the car.)
2) add fuel
3) put the air filter in
4) pressurize the fuel system and look for leaks
5) try to start it.

Would be totally awesome to be able to drive the car back to Tony's for final tuning.
Zach
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r_towle
post May 11 2015, 06:45 PM
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Sweet
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VaccaRabite
post May 18 2015, 07:53 PM
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(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/farm6.staticflickr.com-1435-1432000400.1.jpg)
Sensors are calibrated and seem to be working correctly.

Attached Image


I did run into a hiccup trying to update the ECU to the latest firmware. The installer would not install the firmware. More investigation is required, but I followed the printed firmware updater instructions to the letter.

Push comes to shove, I just run with the current installed firmware, which is 1 rev behind (for now).

Next step is fuel, and make sure my fuel system does not leak when pressurized.

You will note there is a "coolant temp" gauge. That is actually the head temp at the stock location (as opposed to under a spark plug). I have an under the spark plug CHT for the gauge in the car, giving reading for Cyl 3. Eventually I will install the 4 way. But first things first....

I also learned today that my throttle sticks open a little. There is something it grabs on before it gets fully closed. Thats why in the screen shot its reading at 10% open instead of fully closed.

I still have a few mysteries to work out with the spark tables. I set the offset to 295 degrees per Mark's instructions, but did not see where to set the initial cranking advance to 12 degrees. Still in the steep part of the learning curve for this software.
Zach
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Dr Evil
post May 18 2015, 09:07 PM
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C'mon Hershey 2020! You can make it! Probably!
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914itis
post May 18 2015, 09:10 PM
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aircooledtechguy
post May 19 2015, 07:17 AM
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A slow methodical approach is good. You're making it happen and you'll have it up and running before you know it!!
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Dr Evil
post May 19 2015, 03:02 PM
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Because he will have developed Alzheimer's......
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Dr Evil
post May 19 2015, 03:03 PM
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Because he will have developed Alzheimer's.....hey, wait a minute?
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McMark
post May 19 2015, 04:32 PM
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QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ May 18 2015, 06:53 PM) *
I still have a few mysteries to work out with the spark tables. I set the offset to 295 degrees per Mark's instructions, but did not see where to set the initial cranking advance to 12 degrees. Still in the steep part of the learning curve for this software.
Zach

There is no cranking advance that I remember. When confirming the timing for the first time, just set the entire spark map to 12 degrees. This way you don't have to worry about the MicroSquirt changing the timing due to RPM or MAP fluctuations. Then start the engine with your timing light attached. Set your timing light to 12 degrees, and use the Trigger Wizard to adjust the Offset Angle until you see the ZERO mark on the fan.


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VaccaRabite
post May 19 2015, 08:11 PM
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gas is in the tank.

Need to rig an inline fuel pressure gauge to make sure I have pressure set correctly. And then I can pressurize the system and look for leaks.

Zach
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VaccaRabite
post May 19 2015, 08:33 PM
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Is it important to measure fuel pressure at the rail, or is any point aft of the fuel pressure regulator acceptable?

Zach
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McMark
post May 19 2015, 08:40 PM
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No, before the fuel pressure reg. Basically the rail is the best point.
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falcor75
post May 19 2015, 11:17 PM
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QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ May 20 2015, 04:33 AM) *

Is it important to measure fuel pressure at the rail, or is any point aft of the fuel pressure regulator acceptable?

Zach


Aft is in after the FPR you wont have the right pressure....? The FPR should be the last component the fuel passes before going back to the fuel tank. At least this is how I'm setting up my system... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
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VaccaRabite
post May 20 2015, 06:33 AM
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Yes I mispoke.
Plan was to put the gauge into the short peice of hose between the drivers side rail and the FPR. Trying to use the nipple in the rail would make the gauge very hard to read.
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Dr Evil
post May 20 2015, 07:50 AM
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Looking good....


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