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> Zach's Carbs to Microsquirt conversion thread, 7/20/18 update
McMark
post May 22 2015, 10:02 AM
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Yeah, incomplete firmware upload can be a bad thing. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

I found that Manifold Displacement setting, but it's greyed out for me. I tried flipping a few settings to see if I could find out why yours is available, but nothing I changed to enable that setting. I think this is all tied together.

Did you get the latest firmware from http://www.useasydocs.com/details/usv3code.htm as well as the INI file?
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VaccaRabite
post May 22 2015, 10:21 AM
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It can, and I guess (am hoping) this is a result of that. But in the past a bad firmware updates have shown up immediately, not a few days and a dozen restarts later.

Zach
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Dtjaden
post May 22 2015, 08:57 PM
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Hi Zach,

Until you are getting an rpm reading to register in Tuner Studio you will not get a spark or any fuel spray from the injectors. During cranking you should see an rpm reading of a few hundred rpm.

Until you solve that issue the car absolutely will not start. Even iif your settings related to crank angle, etc. are off you should get an rpm reading. The possibilities include a bad crankshaft position sensor, bad wiring between the sensor and the MS ecu, incorrect position sensor settings in Tuner Studio and finally a bad ecu.

There is really no point worrying about other possible problems until you have a working position sensor.

I've been through this,

Darryl
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VaccaRabite
post May 24 2015, 05:37 PM
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What is the difference between the MSExtra firmware that comes loaded on the v3 units and the BG 3.83 firmware? The unit Mark sent me still has the MSExtra firmware and I'm afraid of briking the unit if I try and update it to the 3.83.

I have a feeling my unit got bricked when I tried to load the 3.83 firmware and it errored out... Its not responding on the bench. At all.

Also, how can I test the crank fire sensor without dropping the engine and pulling the doghouse? I am getting zero indication of engine speed with either my unit (before it stopped working) and the spare unit.
I probed the plug, and the plug has continuity for the blue wire, white wire, and shield. I also double checked to make sure I did not cross wire the plug - and I did not.

So the fault is either at the sender, or at the harness ampseal. Tonight I'll check continuity between the plug and the ampseal pins, and HOPE its my issue. If its not I have a long and frustrating night ahead of me.

Zach
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crash914
post May 24 2015, 06:41 PM
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Have you tried measuring the voltage off the sensor while cranking? Even with a digital Peter you should get a signal. I do have an oscilloscopebifbyou need to borrow one.
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McMark
post May 24 2015, 07:10 PM
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Do this.

http://www.useasydocs.com/tachref.htm

It's a special firmware install that ONLY tests the trigger wheel. So you don't have to configure anything, or worry about settings. You just run the program, crank the engine for 30s, then analyze the results.
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McMark
post May 24 2015, 07:14 PM
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That page isn't exactly clear, you have to load the S19 firmware file onto your MS first. Just like loading any other firmware, use the MS Downloader program.
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McMark
post May 24 2015, 07:16 PM
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Sorry, Pound per hour
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VaccaRabite
post May 24 2015, 07:39 PM
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QUOTE(McMark @ May 24 2015, 08:10 PM) *

Do this.

http://www.useasydocs.com/tachref.htm

It's a special firmware install that ONLY tests the trigger wheel. So you don't have to configure anything, or worry about settings. You just run the program, crank the engine for 30s, then analyze the results.


Eh, not comfortable with this. I'm using the "loaned" MS unit right now as mine is dead. I don't want to turn the one you loaned me into a brick, especially sine I am not sure why the first one failed.

I'll test with a multimeter first.

Zach
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VaccaRabite
post May 24 2015, 07:58 PM
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QUOTE(crash914 @ May 24 2015, 07:41 PM) *

Have you tried measuring the voltage off the sensor while cranking? Even with a digital Peter you should get a signal. I do have an oscilloscopebifbyou need to borrow one.

Nada.
No change in voltage.
time to start digging...
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McMark
post May 24 2015, 08:05 PM
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Use the tooth analyzer. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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VaccaRabite
post May 24 2015, 09:35 PM
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Where I am now.
tooth wheel to sensor clearance.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/farm8.staticflickr.com-1435-1432524939.1.jpg)

Plug:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/farm6.staticflickr.com-1435-1432524940.2.jpg)

When I crank the engine, sometimes I get a burst of activity on the tach for the first quarter second of cranking. It will flash ~325 rpm and then the signal will drop to zero. Not all the time, but some of it. Usually the tach just stays pegged at zero.

Right now I have the car up and front tin and fan off. I'm not sure I have the clearance to remove the doghouse.

I can pop the plug end off, but getting to the bolt/screw that holds the shield wire will be really hard w/o removing the doghouse.

does the sensor require 12 volts to operate? or does it generate it own voltage via the trigger wheel? I may be able to test the sensor in place and see if its the wiring.

Herb, if you could come up for a day, i'd really appreciate the guidance from someone who is not feeling his way around in the dark like I am.

Zach
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VaccaRabite
post May 24 2015, 09:38 PM
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Oh, by the way. If I need to flip the trigger wheel, now would be the time to tell me. lol.

It is so whiskey time.

Zach
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edwin
post May 24 2015, 09:44 PM
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The gap there doesn't look close enough to me.
Should be well under a mm from my experience.
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McMark
post May 24 2015, 10:45 PM
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The fan hub alignment pin should be roughly lined up with the missing tooth. Which means when you flip it, the missing tooth stays in the same place. But it really doesn't matter where the missing tooth is once you get it running.
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Dtjaden
post May 24 2015, 11:44 PM
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There are only a few possibilities if you are not showing a tach signal. You have eliminated the ecu as being the problem by swapping in a known good ecu. There are three other possibilities:
1. Bad wiring between the sensor and the ecu.
2. A bad crank position sensor.
3. The sensor could be positioned incorrectly. Too close or too far away.
4. The wrong sensor type specified - VR vs Hall.
5. Incorrect setup of the conditioner circuit.

In TunerStudio you can look at the Logger to view the CPS input pulses. I found this helpful.
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VaccaRabite
post May 25 2015, 01:01 AM
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QUOTE(Dtjaden @ May 25 2015, 12:44 AM) *

There are only a few possibilities if you are not showing a tach signal. You have eliminated the ecu as being the problem by swapping in a known good ecu. There are three other possibilities:
4. The wrong sensor type specified - VR vs Hall.

Where do you set the senor type? I'm looking for that as it is real possibility.
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crash914
post May 25 2015, 06:17 AM
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Zach, I would swing by but am flat out until after the 14th. you should have it running by then.
picture of what I just installed yesterday..a little close so I spaced it out by 1 very thin washer. running the sensor and wheel on my drill press, I can generate a pretty good signal at a pretty good, 1/4 inch gap.

Attached Image
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76-914
post May 25 2015, 07:48 AM
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QUOTE(crash914 @ May 24 2015, 05:41 PM) *

Have you tried measuring the voltage off the sensor while cranking? Even with a digital Peter you should get a signal. I do have an oscilloscopebifbyou need to borrow one.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) Zach's got a Digital Peter? Cool! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
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Dr Evil
post May 25 2015, 04:00 PM
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Didnt you hack the sensor wires and then reconnect them? IIRC, there was concern that the signal would be goofed up from this maneuver, unless I am mistaken.
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