Zach's Carbs to Microsquirt conversion thread, 7/20/18 update Options

[McMark]

I've used these once, and have been meaning to try them again:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/static.summitracing.com-419-1492651347.1.jpg)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jif-21505j

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/static.summitracing.com-419-1492651347.2.jpg)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jif-22505

Those are for AN-5 (5/16") barbs. I'm not 100% confident that's the one you need, but the technology is nice. Reach up in the hole, pop the quick disconnect and you're done.

There's also caps, because IIRC it's not 100% leak proof, just a occasional drip.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jif-ms2000p
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jif-ms2000c

[VaccaRabite]

Mark (or anyone) do you think its worth putting in a dual port pump instead of the 3 port I have in there now?

Zach

[McMark]

I would for plumbing simplicity. It's less components to fail, and less to deal with when servicing or accessing.

But functionally, no there's no benefit. A pump is a pump.

[bigkensteele]

Glad to hear you are rolling again, Zach. You deserve it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[crash914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving-girl.gif) not in that order!

[jd74914]

Mark (or anyone) do you think its worth putting in a dual port pump instead of the 3 port I have in there now?

Definitely if you have an older 3 port. They have a tendency to start bypassing at the worst times.

[FourBlades]

Great to see you have your car back and running! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

I can't believe Mark ever figured out the voodoo starter issue. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

I would have replaced the whole motor before ever thinking of the starter. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Get out and drive it now.

John

[VaccaRabite]

Small update.
Mark and I still have our heads together to get the cold start right.
I adjusted the idle when warm that the engine would idle fine without the air leak.
Mark is going to make a small harness to wire the AAR into the Microsquirt.

I energized the AAR and timed its function and it was closed up within 40 seconds. Thats just not enough time. So what we are going to do is have the AAR energize when the engine warm up is complete.

I've been having connection issues getting my laptop to talk to the ECU, and have traced it down to a continuity issue in the coms cable that goes into the ECU. I'm guessing there is some oil/dirt/crap in the 3.5mm minijack which I consider to be a weak point. tonight I'm going to unscrew the housing from the minijack and start probing to see if the jack is the issue or the wires. Its possible that something vibrated loose either in the Ampseal connector or at the jack or somewhere in between.

I've driven the car a few times. No long drives yet. Buts its more punchy then I remember, and it sounds TOTALLY different then it did with carbs.

Zach

[Spoke]

You should be able to slow the AAR down a bit by adding a series resistor. Although if the resistor is too large, the AAR won't open completely. It might be possible for the AAR to completely open with a series resistor and slow down the opening timing.

[Dtjaden]

Is there a reason why you are not using a PWM idle valve that would be directly controlled by the Microsquirt ECU? They are relatively inexpensive and very easy to setup.

[McMark]

Is there a reason why you are not using a PWM idle valve that would be directly controlled by the Microsquirt ECU? They are relatively inexpensive and very easy to setup.

For me it's one of the things I plan to look into for the next two MicroSquirt setups I'm building right now. I'd like to control a PWM idle valve, but for me it's a matter of finding the right valve that fits the space and looks closer to original. There's a lot of valve out there that work for people who are just looking for the function. But I like to make things hard on myself. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

[VaccaRabite]

I'd like to know more about the PWM valves.

My biggest issue right now, and I'm pulling my hair out over it, is that I can't get the ECU to talk to my laptop.

Mark and the tuner were both able to connect. My laptop had connected in the past. I've gone through all the trouble shooting guides. Loopback tests work for the cable and serial to USB adapter. All the wires have continuity to the right places. All my drivers are updated. It just wont connect and I'm going nuts trying to figure out why.

Mark, could I get screen shots of your port settings? This is where I am sitting.





If anything here looks weird please let me know.
Zach

[VaccaRabite]

The other option I have is to try a Serial to bluetooth adapter instead of the serial to USB. Which I have been meaning to set up anyway so I can use my iPhone as a data logger.

Zach

[McMark]

Those match my settings.

I know Zach's tired of me saying it, but I'm gonna post it here for everyone else to see...

When I started working with MicroSquirt I tried three or four different USB serial converters and never had any luck with them. In fact, one time one of those units glitched somehow and erased the MicroSquirt while driving with the laptop connected.

After wasting tons and tons of time, I just went on Amazon and bought a Dell Latitude D630 with a built in COM port for a little over $100.

And I've never looked back. It's the right tool for the job.

That being said, the bluetooth setup shows promise, and may be a better solution than a dedicated laptop.

[poorsche914]

Mark said my 2056 dynoed 130 HP and 140 TQ at the wheels.
I'm pretty pleased at that. Looking forward to getting the dyno chart.

Really looking forward to driving my car.

Zach

Any idea what the carbed version power numbers were? Wondering how much of a gain the MS gives you (if any).

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[McMark]

Any idea what the carbed version power numbers were? Wondering how much of a gain the MS gives you (if any).

MS, carbs, stock FI, etc ALL have only one purpose in life -- to accurately dispense the proper amount of fuel for the quantity of air entering the engine. Measuring the correct fuel amount for varying conditions is the challenge and some setups are better than others. But a CORRECTLY tuned induction system will not 'make more power' over another. Power is more accurately attributed to air flow. Increasing the airflow through your engine (by reducing restriction in the intake or exhaust, or by increasing the size of the air pump AKA displacement) makes more power.

Think of is this way, you can't take a stock 1.7 and just add more fuel until it makes 125hp.
BUT you can increase the airflow to where it makes 125hp. This is EXACTLY what a turbo does.

[poorsche914]

MS, carbs, stock FI, etc ALL have only one purpose in life -- to accurately dispense the proper amount of fuel for the quantity of air entering the engine. Measuring the correct fuel amount for varying conditions is the challenge and some setups are better than others. But a CORRECTLY tuned induction system will not 'make more power' over another. Power is more accurately attributed to air flow. Increasing the airflow through your engine (by reducing restriction in the intake or exhaust, or by increasing the size of the air pump AKA displacement) makes more power.

Think of is this way, you can't take a stock 1.7 and just add more fuel until it makes 125hp.
BUT you can increase the airflow to where it makes 125hp. This is EXACTLY what a turbo does.

Thanks for the info, Mark. How about fuel efficiency, then? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[McMark]

MS, carbs, stock FI, etc ALL have only one purpose in life -- to accurately dispense the proper amount of fuel for the quantity of air entering the engine. Measuring the correct fuel amount for varying conditions is the challenge and some setups are better than others. But a CORRECTLY tuned induction system will not 'make more power' over another. Power is more accurately attributed to air flow. Increasing the airflow through your engine (by reducing restriction in the intake or exhaust, or by increasing the size of the air pump AKA displacement) makes more power.

Think of is this way, you can't take a stock 1.7 and just add more fuel until it makes 125hp.
BUT you can increase the airflow to where it makes 125hp. This is EXACTLY what a turbo does.

Thanks for the info, Mark. How about fuel efficiency, then? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

That has tons of potential to improve. Carbs only have <10 places where you can make adjustments. Fuel injection has multitudes more (depending on the system).

See this image, where light blue is the correct mixture, and the darker the blue the more wrong it is. As you travel along the red circle/line on the carb side you go through a range of blue and black. This is how carb work -- they're pretty right most of the time, but also there are places where it's quite wrong.

As you travel the same circle/line on the fuel injection side you can see there is less black because there are more squares. So the mixture is 'righter' more of the time.

Correct mixture is necessary for optimizing power and fuel economy, as well as proper cooling of the engine.

And this same idea applies to ignition timing. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[arvcube]

I've had consistent connectivity success with the serial to usb adapter listed on diyautotune.com's website for my Megasquirted scirocco and TunerStudio. You may want to try that one.

[VaccaRabite]

Built and configured the Serial to Bluetooth adapter last night, but was too zapped to want to go out in the driving rain to get into my garage and try it out.

hopefully removing the USB adapter will allow me to connect.
Zach