Zach's Carbs to Microsquirt conversion thread, 7/20/18 update Options

[VaccaRabite]

I looked back but couldn't find any info in this thread about your AAR, but if the one I was working on will work I can send you my adapter piece and you'll have to order a Hyundai valve.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=319149

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Send me the model number of the Hyundai part and I’ll get it ordered.

[peteyd]

Zach,

check out my solution for the AAR. Post 49 and onward.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...56751&st=40

If Im correct you bought a 2 wire unit. If your ports are as big as mine, I took some barbed brass fittings and JB welded them in there so I could plumb .5" hose, which is darn close to the 13mm stock.

or go with Marks setup.

Pete

[VaccaRabite]

Tank went back in last night. Front end of the car is jacked up as I need to get under and attach the hoses to the underside of the tank now. I'm not leaving myself a service loop for anti-kinking reasons, which has made everyhting a little more challenging.

But if it results in fuel pressure not dropping under throttle, then its worth it.

I may be able to start the car this evening. At least, thats the plan. In theory everyhting will work and I'll be able get my laptop on it. Or maybe just take it for a gentle drive around the block.

Zach

[crash914]

great news! Mine is running. I went for tuning run on Monday, but the rear brakes are dragging and I had bad brake fade.

Need to source new rear calipers.....

[VaccaRabite]

Well. Damn.

I’m glad I only put 2 gallons of gas in it. Looks like I popped a hose.
Just finished siphoning all the gas back out of the tank.

I’m glad I took the time to push the car outside before cycling the pump to build pressure.

Uhh. I’d say the new fuel pump is delivering plenty of pressure.

Zach

[saigon71]

UGH!

Keep battling bro. You are close to the finish line!

[VaccaRabite]

Back in the garage. Hose popped off the pressure pipe as suspected. Easy to fix but no time now as I have to go visit mom in the hospital, and have to clean up.

I have a really early set of Chris’s stainless fuel lines, before he started putting bubble flares on them. I just need to tighten the clamp down more over the hose.

[76-914]

Zach. if you have a flaring tool put a very small flare on the end. Just enough to make a ridge. If you don't have a flaring tool you can take needle nose pliers and gently bend the end edge out enough to form a small ridge. It doesn't take much. We used to do this to the copper pipe so that the rubber cone washers wouldn't slip off. Our pressures varied from 30psi to 90psi. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[VaccaRabite]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qKDxqJunbqI

Its running! We are back to the point we were last summer. it runs but has a very high idle.
I love how brite my tail lights are with the LEDs. It has really made a difference.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9DxHsHTVQE

I'm connected to my laptop! That is the error that took about a year to fix! Now I need to fix my tuning laptop. The battery is DEAD and it only runs when connected to an outlet. One is ordered.

A slightly bigger issue is that the throttle cable is somehow trashed. :-( Looks like something was chewing on it, and the wire sheath is all fucked up and causing the cable to bind. So I need to order and run a new throttle cable. This issue is keeping the car from being drivable at all.

My fuel pressure is also set too low - 30PSI. But that is easy enough to fix. Given that it was late I did not test to see if fuel pressure dropped under throttle. Ill test that tomorrow.

Big steps!

Zach

[VaccaRabite]

I found a new Terry throttle cable in my parts stash. It may have come from Kens parts that I bought up after he passed (thanks buddy!).

I had Theo help me pull the old cable and run the new cable in and he was awesome. Still need to hook up the throttle pedal and the throttle. But the hard part is done.

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(yes, we have 2 pin type jackstands holding up the car. I leave the jack in place as an added layer of safety.)
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I was under the car with him, but he is getting old enough where he does not really need a ton of direction anymore. Just need to show him where things go and let him figure things out.

I should be able to get the throttle cable buttoned up at some point next week. I just need the AAR and I should I’d be able to drive it to Jim’s party in early August. 2 weeks left! eek!

Zach

[billh1963]

Started to get on you about jack stands...but, now I see them.

One big thing I noticed is no safety glasses on your son. I didn't wear them for years. Then, after a near miss, I now wear them religiously when working on the car where something may go flying or debris may drop in my eyes.

[VaccaRabite]

I was using two pin type jack stands and the jack as well as an added layer of security.

[JamesM]

Its running! We are back to the point we were last summer. it runs but has a very high idle.

What sort of idle speed are you aiming for? 2nd video the idle didnt seem high at all, though the vacuum was not great and it looked like it may be jumping around a bit.

How were the AFRs looking? Id be interested to see a data log and the current tune file.

[VaccaRabite]

Got the hose Barbs from Mark @ Original Customs for the Hyundai AAR. Just need to figure out the wiring now. This is the last piece of the puzzle folks. After this is just making it look pretty again.



Zach

[McMark]

Pins are numbered 1-2-3

The center pin (2) is the power in.

Pins 1 & 3 either open or close the valve. I'll look at my notes, but you can test it with jumper wires. Power to pin 2 and ground on pin 1 will either open the valve fully, or close it fully. Figure out which pin is the 'closer' and that one will go direct to ground with the resistor (you may need to play with the value). Wire the 'opener' to the MicroSquirt.

According to my notes:
3- Closes the valve (to engine ground, through resistor)
2- 12v power (from fuse panel)
1- Opens the valve (wire to MicroSquirt FIdle)
....edited to correct wiring pins 8/11/18

This little guy (and the BIG Bosch valves) work by making pins 1 & 3 fight against each other. When the MicroSquirt isn't trying to raise the idle, the ground on pin 1 pulls the valve shut automaticallly. But the resistor reduces the 'strength' or closing power. So when the MicroSquirt grounds pin 3 it is 'stronger' and can open the valve.

It's like having a scrawny kid trying to hold a door shut, but ever once in awhile a big, strong guy (MicroSquirt) pushes the door open anyway.

-------------
I haven't tested any of this on my car yet, but I would start with the 30-40 ohm resistor, but keep in the back of your mind the idea that those resistor values may need to change.
The value of the resistor is what establishes just how weak the scrawny kid is.
A 0-ohm resistor would mean that the valve would never move. Both sides are pulling the same.
A 999k-ohm resistor would mean that the closing side has absolutely no strength and can't even 'close the door' by itself.

[VaccaRabite]

Excellent. Just picked up a 40ohm 50watt resistor block from Amazon.

[VaccaRabite]

Just took the car for a 10 mile spin.

Clearly I need to figure out how to tune the IAC. Hot idle is about 2K rpm right now. Also the car flat out would not start with the IAC plugged in. I unplugged it to start the car and the plugged it back in.

Time to learn something new.

Zach

[saigon71]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[VaccaRabite]

Mark (or anyone really) Have you played with the IAC settings at all in TunerStudio? They are under Fuel Setup Idle Control. I've been watching a bunch of youtube videos trying to wrap my head around it.

I have not found a way to import my IAC into tuner studio the way you do with all the other bits like the TPS and air temp sensor. It may be that TS doesn't really care and you just have to fiddle with the controls.

With the 40ohm resister, it feels like the IAC isn't open enough when cranking. Car starts fine if the IAC is unplugged. When its plugged in and the engine is cold, it coughs but won't fire. Makes a cool "phut" sound sometimes. So my first thing is giving it a larger crank value (I think).

Also, I think I have to do the 15 minute warm-up instead of sensing something else or going closed loop. The coolant sensor that is usually used to regulate warmup doesn't exist for me (its an air temp sensor.) I MAY be able to use the head temp sensor, if I can find out how to link it in. But I'd imagine 15 minutes after starting the car its as warmed up as its going to get.

From what I'm seeing this is how I get my idle lower. I'm excited to see an idle around 1000 rpm again.

I forgot how loud this car was. It has a really different sound then it used to with the carbs and headers. The high pitched scream has been replaced by a thumping base coming from the Triad.

Once the car is driving right, this winter I'm going to try and get some of the heater ducting back in place so I can defrost/defog the windshield.

Zach

[crash914]

Zach, I have used both the head temp sensor and oil temp sensor for coolant temp.

if you use < 180 degrees as cold, it should work. If you use the existing head temp sensor, you might need to do a temperature resistance calibration. I don't care as I just want to see above 180.

you might also want to look at pulse width cold and at cranking. could be you are too rich, thus have to have extra air.

I have ITB, so no fast idle or warm up help. had to get it working without. it does.

running MS extra. Prime pulse is around 13.5 @76 deg and 0 above 168. Cranking pulse width is 263 at 76 deg. and 100 at 191. I can't send you a screen shot right now, but can later.