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> Clutch R & R, How long should it take
Trekkor
post Jul 30 2004, 10:53 PM
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I'll be replacing my clutch this week for next weeks A/X.

How much time should it take?

Would you drop the whole works and split the trans off on the ground or just drop the trans?

My time has finally come...To do a drop (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

KT
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Martin Baker
post Jul 30 2004, 11:06 PM
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I would do trans only, less work, maybe a little more uncomfortable, unless you are on a lift. Then it's no more discomfort at all. I am use to working on the floor, etc. 901 weight I think is approx.75 lbs. Are you going with lightened components? Alone not in a rush, looking over everything, and no surprises (right) 2.5-3 hours. That's me, I work slowly. No rush. When are you going to do it? Need a hand? Let me know.
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Trekkor
post Jul 30 2004, 11:15 PM
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Thanks for the offer, Martin. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif)

I don't know when I'll do the work.

Likely, it will be in the evenings all week.

I'll let you know.

KT
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Martin Baker
post Jul 30 2004, 11:26 PM
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Gonna drag it out huh...Ok, it's not that big of job....not like changing, say a GE CF6-50. NOW that is an event...I have a really wierd schedule. It would have to be planned for me to assist. Don't forget the new rear main seal/o-ring for the flywheel.
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McMark
post Jul 31 2004, 12:19 AM
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1.5 hours to drop the engine and trans, 30 minutes to change out all the parts, 1.5 hours to put it back in. If you're reusing your flywheel you'll have to take a break to get it resurfaced. You should also think about getting the flywheel and pressure plate balanced at a machine shop (TEM Machine Shop in Napa) to help smooth things out. Let me know what your plan is. We'll get you setup. Lets do it in two days. I need to make some tech articles. So I can make an engine drop article and a clutch job article. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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Trekkor
post Jul 31 2004, 09:30 AM
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O.K. !

Mark. how about I show up on Sat afternoon.
We tear it out, etc.

Parts to the shop on Mon a.m.
Button it up in the p.m. ?

BTW those calipers, rotors and pads need to go on, too. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Trekkor
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Trekkor
post Aug 1 2004, 01:37 AM
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Mark, thanks again!

What a blast!
The motor/trans is out.
Clutch out.
Replaced injector seals, manifold gaskets, intake sleeves.
Cleaned oil cooler.
Replaced clutch with 911 215mm.
Replaced engine compartment seal.
Replaced rear main seal. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)
Fastened trans to engine.

Ate hamburgers!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/burger.gif)

Button it up tommorow. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif)

KT
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McMark
post Aug 1 2004, 01:43 AM
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No problem, it was fun trekkor.
Tomorrow it comes back to life!
Thanks for the BURGER!


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Trekkor
post Aug 1 2004, 01:47 AM
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That oil cooler was filthy. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif)
Do you have the clean shot?

How it cooled it all, I'll never know. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

KT
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McMark
post Aug 1 2004, 01:52 AM
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I didn't take a clean shot. We can fake one tomorrow on my spare engine. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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Trekkor
post Aug 2 2004, 01:02 AM
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O.K. it's all done and on the road! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

Repaired one and replaced one rear trunk pivot (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
Faked a battery tray repair
replaced alt belt (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

The clean oil cooler is a big improvement.
I recommend checking yours if you have any cooling issues.
The car used to read "P" on the "TEMP" gauge when hot.
Now it shows"E".

Overall time spent just boopin' along, including eating burgers, about 10 hours.

KT
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maf914
post Aug 2 2004, 06:39 AM
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QUOTE(trekkor @ Aug 1 2004, 11:02 PM)
The clean oil cooler is a big improvement.
I recommend checking yours if you have any cooling issues.
The car used to read "P" on the "TEMP" gauge when hot.
Now it shows"E".

That was one nasty oil cooler. Airflow through that thing must have been at a minimum. It looks like its had a steady diet of oak (?) leaves.

Good work. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)
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IronHillRestorations
post Aug 2 2004, 01:01 PM
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QUOTE(maf914 @ Aug 2 2004, 04:39 AM)
QUOTE(trekkor @ Aug 1 2004, 11:02 PM)
The clean oil cooler is a big improvement.
I recommend checking yours if you have any cooling issues.
The car used to read "P" on the "TEMP" gauge when hot.
Now it shows"E".

That was one nasty oil cooler. Airflow through that thing must have been at a minimum. It looks like its had a steady diet of oak (?) leaves.

Good work. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

and a nice gummy black protective coating!

PK (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)
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Trekkor
post Aug 2 2004, 11:37 PM
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BTW , Guys,

the 6 spring clutch without an oily spray does run quite a bit better.

Always change out the $8.00 rear main seal.

logical T
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