 Question for those that weld floor pans |
|
|
|
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG.
This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way. Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners. |
|
|
  |
| MrHyde |
 Oct 26 2011, 04:50 PM
Post
#1
|
|
Senior Member  Group: Members Posts: 525 Joined: 13-October 10 From: Ontario, Canada Member No.: 12,268 Region Association: None  |
I'm almost ready to start fitting the rear floor pan section and weld it in, but i have one question.. When I cut the old floor pan out, I cut it short by about an inch to inch and half.. I figured at the time I would trim it for a proper fit and sort it out when I was ready to weld.. Well that time is here.
Should I cut the old floor back so that the new floor pan butts up against it and butt weld the whole cut line (not as pleasant ) or perhaps pull down on the extra inch or so ( after drilling out the spot welds ) of old floor pan and have the old floor overlap the new floor pan and join it with two fillet welds.. I'm thinking that it might be stronger if I overlap the floor sections but I might be way off base here.. What would you guys do?? set it up to butt weld the floor sections together or set it up to overlap the floor sections.??? Thanks ! Mike |
   |
 
|
| Mike Bellis |
Oct 26 2011, 06:03 PM
Post
#2
|
|
Resident Electrician Group: Members Posts: 8,345 Joined: 22-June 09 From: Midlothian TX Member No.: 10,496 Region Association: None 
|
The "correct" way to restore is a butt joint. Using little spot welds across the length of the seam. Alternating from side to side as to not build up too much heat. There is nothing wrong with a lap joint as you describe however it may effect resale value if you have a real 914er look at the car. If you do go with a lap joint, use seam sealer on both sides of the pan when done.
|
|
|
|
| scotty b |
Oct 26 2011, 06:24 PM
Post
#3
|
|
rust free you say ? Group: Members Posts: 16,375 Joined: 7-January 05 From: richmond, Va. Member No.: 3,419 Region Association: None |
QUOTE(kg6dxn @ Oct 26 2011, 04:03 PM)  The "correct" way to restore is a butt joint. Using little spot welds across the length of the seam. Alternating from side to side as to not build up too much heat. There is nothing wrong with a lap joint as you describe however it may effect resale value if you have a real 914er look at the car. If you do go with a lap joint, use seam sealer on both sides of the pan when done. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) |
|
|
|
| tomeric914 |
Oct 26 2011, 08:46 PM
Post
#4
|
|
One Lap of America in a 914! Group: Members Posts: 1,259 Joined: 25-May 08 From: Syracuse, NY Member No.: 9,101 Region Association: North East States
|
QUOTE(scotty b @ Oct 26 2011, 08:24 PM) QUOTE(kg6dxn @ Oct 26 2011, 04:03 PM) The "correct" way to restore is a butt joint. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Butt joint and use multiple 1/4" welds (basically spot welds). Yes it will take longer but you won't have an issue with warping or shrinking as much as if you try to run longer welds. Start with welds 6" apart then go back and split the difference. Continue until you don't have any gaps. Get yourself some butt weld clamps if you want to be real fancy. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Professional-B...=item2a13806361 |
|
|
|
| bcheney |
Oct 26 2011, 09:27 PM
Post
#5
|
|
Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,341 Joined: 16-November 03 From: Orlando, FL Member No.: 1,348 Region Association: South East States |
QUOTE(kg6dxn @ Oct 26 2011, 05:03 PM) The "correct" way to restore is a butt joint. Using little spot welds across the length of the seam. Alternating from side to side as to not build up too much heat. There is nothing wrong with a lap joint as you describe however it may effect resale value if you have a real 914er look at the car. If you do go with a lap joint, use seam sealer on both sides of the pan when done. I had this work done to my car some years ago. I have documented the technique in my 6 conversion thread. Click this link and look at the pics on page 2. Hope seeing these pics help. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...88031&st=20 |
|
|
|
| r_towle |
Oct 27 2011, 12:09 PM
Post
#6
|
|
Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,574 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States
|
The correct way (IMHO) is to remove the floor pans just like they were installed by drilling out all the spot welds on the bottom of the car.
Then put the pan under the car, jack it up and weld it back in place...just like its meant to be done. That is why the pan is so large...it actually goes under the car, it does not come in from above. RIch |
|
|
|
| SirAndy |
Oct 27 2011, 01:45 PM
Post
#7
|
|
Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,638 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
QUOTE(r_towle @ Oct 27 2011, 11:09 AM) The correct way (IMHO) is to remove the floor pans just like they were installed by drilling out all the spot welds on the bottom of the car. Then put the pan under the car, jack it up and weld it back in place...just like its meant to be done. That is why the pan is so large...it actually goes under the car, it does not come in from above. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) The replacement pans are large enough. Drill holes and "spot" weld it back into place. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) |
|
|
|
| McMark |
Oct 27 2011, 03:03 PM
Post
#8
|
|
914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
Here's what I did.
Attached image(s)    
|
|
|
|
| MrHyde |
Oct 27 2011, 03:41 PM
Post
#9
|
|
Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 525 Joined: 13-October 10 From: Ontario, Canada Member No.: 12,268 Region Association: None |
I drilled out the spot welds when I removed the old floor pan.. The car currently looks like McMarks second pic..
I will take out that last inch and butt weld the floor pan in.. Thanks for the advice ! Mike |
|
|
|
| sean_v8_914 |
Nov 7 2011, 08:37 AM
Post
#10
|
|
Chingon 601 Group: Members Posts: 4,011 Joined: 1-February 05 From: San Diego Member No.: 3,541 |
one of the nice things about this job is that you gain access to inside the tunnel so you can treat that rust.
the harbor freight spot weld bit is cheap, lasts a long time and works well. i switched to a Wurth spot weld bit. it is 3x expensive, sharper, faster and requires less fineness to operate |
|
|
|
|
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:
|
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 16th May 2024 - 08:12 AM |
Invision Power Board
v9.1.4 © 2024 IPS, Inc.