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> Value of a 2.2 long block in pieces, What to pay and what to look for?
bigkensteele
post Oct 29 2011, 09:08 PM
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I was checking out CL today, and I found a '71 2.2 not too far away. From the pics, it looks like the carbs are included, but the motor is disassembled. They are asking $1000. I have never rebuilt a motor, so I don't know what to look for other than the obvious (hole in the side of the case, blue bearings, bent rods or push rods, etc.)

Assuming that I could talk the guy down to $700 - 800, would this be a decent deal if it looks rebuildable?
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Dr Evil
post Oct 29 2011, 10:23 PM
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With carbs, heck ya. The 2.2 is not equipped with special P/C like the bigger motors so a great one to build and throw in (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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jmill
post Oct 30 2011, 07:26 AM
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If it has good pistons and cylinders it's a great deal. The carbs are $800 alone. If it's an E or an S grab it and run.

Somewhere on the case will be stamped the type #. You can't be sure that all the pieces are the same but it will give you an idea of what it was and still might be.

911/01,04 - E
911/02 - S
911/03,06,07,08 - T

Just saw that the T came stock with Zenith carbs. They aren't as valuable as the Webers. They're ok if you keep it a T but parts are harder to find. The E and S came stock with MFI. Chances are that it's a T. Doe's it have a Bosch dizzy or the old Marelli?
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BK911
post Oct 30 2011, 08:55 AM
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IMO $1000 is kinda steep. Unless the carbs are webers and not the zeniths. T, E or S? HUGE difference!! Different cams, crank, rods, P/Cs and heads. All are great engines but have different values.

You can pay $1000 and have a pile of junk which nothing is salvagable.

Or you can pay $1000 and have an engine that just needs a gasket kit, assembly and vroom vroom.

So option A is a waste of money. Option B is an awesome deal. This engine is probably somewhere in the middle.

You have to ask yourself. Do you feel lucky?

Why was it disassembled? Because something was broken or worn? If so, what?

Are P/Cs within spec or do they need to be replaced? Heads need to be rebuilt?

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tscrihfield
post Oct 30 2011, 10:59 AM
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Hey ken,
I looked the same ad a couple days ago and here's my opinion.... Your going to have a ton of $$ in this due to the condition of everything. Had it been stored where the weather could get to it, it would be a nice deal. However, the rust on the rods is a good indicator of terrible storage location. Usually a 6 rebuild is around 6k from what I've seen and that is a bare bones rebuild assuming you have good components to start with. I would honestly look for a recently rebuilt engine, you'll have probably half the money in it after it is all said and done.

Thomas
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sixnotfour
post Oct 30 2011, 12:48 PM
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pass ,,

But the carbs are worth something and the heads and maybe the crankshaft,

400 carbs Dan Root was looking for some
100 heads me
100-300 crank 911s registry.


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Mike Bellis
post Oct 30 2011, 12:55 PM
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Buy the rebuilt turbo 6 engine on CL SF. Good price for a running motor...

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/pts/2653319349.html
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Dr Evil
post Oct 30 2011, 01:36 PM
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QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Oct 30 2011, 02:48 PM) *

pass ,,

But the carbs are worth something and the heads and maybe the crankshaft,

400 carbs Dan Root was looking for some
100 heads me
100-300 crank 911s registry.


Oh my dark lord, that is basically scrap. I had no idea. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif)
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jmill
post Oct 30 2011, 03:00 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)

Did he use it as a saltwater boat anchor? If it's a 2.2 T the cranks aren't counter weighted. Junk IMHO. Heads and maybe carbs are all that's worth saving. They would both need lots of work to make useable.
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Cap'n Krusty
post Oct 30 2011, 03:59 PM
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IMO, the REAL question is how much the seller would pay you to haul it off. It's SCRAP.

The Cap'n
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bigkensteele
post Oct 30 2011, 04:34 PM
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Thanks guys. Basically confirmed my suspicion. The guy hasn't replied to my email asking a few basic questions, so I am assuming he knows it is junk. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon8.gif)
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avidfanjpl
post Oct 31 2011, 01:58 AM
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Junk is a kind assessment on that picture you posted of the T parts.

I have a working 2.2 with Zenith's from THOMAS. I would use those parts to hold down my day tent in a strong wind.

Keep your money warm in your pocket.

BTW, a T motor was not my first choice, but THOMAS did such a GREAT job on The Dark Knight, that I hardly had to do anything to make it scream on the 16th at the PCAOCR AX.

He did the tensioner upgrade and it does have an early Marelli (retard only vacuum). No Problemo!

Here are some pics. FLAT in the turns, and I was banging third gear to 5.4K rpm.

That is a lot for an engine that has basically 6 hours on it. Again, a 72 T with Zeniths.

John

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BK911
post Oct 31 2011, 08:48 AM
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A 2.2T is a nice engine. Scoots an early 911 along pretty well so should be even better in a 914. Put in 2.4 crank and rods and you have a VERY nice street engine with a nice flat torque curve. About the same compression as a 2.4S but more street friendly cams. Throw in some E cams and WOW!!

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jmill
post Oct 31 2011, 11:38 AM
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QUOTE(BK911 @ Oct 31 2011, 09:48 AM) *

A 2.2T is a nice engine. Scoots an early 911 along pretty well so should be even better in a 914. Put in 2.4 crank and rods and you have a VERY nice street engine with a nice flat torque curve. About the same compression as a 2.4S but more street friendly cams. Throw in some E cams and WOW!!


I was under the impression you couldn't use the E or S cam with the T pistons without valve interference. Throw in the 2.4 crank and it would bring the piston even closer. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

If the E cams work without machining the pistons I'll throw them in my 2.4T. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
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BK911
post Oct 31 2011, 02:58 PM
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QUOTE(jmill @ Oct 31 2011, 09:38 AM) *

QUOTE(BK911 @ Oct 31 2011, 09:48 AM) *

A 2.2T is a nice engine. Scoots an early 911 along pretty well so should be even better in a 914. Put in 2.4 crank and rods and you have a VERY nice street engine with a nice flat torque curve. About the same compression as a 2.4S but more street friendly cams. Throw in some E cams and WOW!!


I was under the impression you couldn't use the E or S cam with the T pistons without valve interference. Throw in the 2.4 crank and it would bring the piston even closer. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

If the E cams work without machining the pistons I'll throw them in my 2.4T. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)


Yes the pistons sometimes need to be machined. Sometimes the lower skirt needs some tweaking when putting 2.2 pistons on a 2.4 crank, and sometimes the valve pockets need massaging installing E cams with T pistons. Sometimes they will bolt right on. No matter what anybody says, you should always verify.

2.2 and 2.4 cranks will have the same deck heights. Material was removed off the "top" of the crank to give the extra stroke, so the pistons retracts further into the case. Not closer to the heads.
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