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> Can't seem to remove old shift lever oil seal, and boy do I feel dumb
ambergris
post Aug 6 2004, 08:15 PM
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I just got my introduction post done, and now I feel like I have a rather silly question. Definitely not technical, more like "wtf am I doing wrong here?"
Basically, when replacing my shift bushings I noticed some oil collecting in the black plastic shift selector rod cover. Well what do you know, but Pelican has a tech article that seems to cover this exact problem. So I bought new oil seals, removed the selector mechanism, and got the selector shaft out.
Now I'm trying to remove the old seal, and it's not budging. I've tried using a flathead screwdriver to pry it out, and I've tried a pair of pliers to pull it out, and so far I don't think it's moved one bit. Although I have chewed up the old seal pretty well...
Is there something obvious I'm missing, or is this just 30 years of crap that I have to fight through?


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Red-Beard
post Aug 7 2004, 07:44 AM
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This is probally the worst seal to get out. I usually have to "carefully" hammer the screwdriver into the seal and then pry up. These are a metal seal and they are a bitch to get out.

Position the screwdriver just under the lip and bang it a bit with the hammer. Not too hard, just enough to deform the seal a little bit and get the screwdriver something to hold against.

I haven't tried heat, but I expect if you heat the housing it will help. Make sure you have the thing held in a death grip by a vise.
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ambergris
post Aug 7 2004, 11:21 AM
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Thanks for the advice, Red-Beard. I'm really glad to hear from someone else that this is a b*tch to get out, and that I'm not screwing something up. I was a little worried everyone else knew about some kind of hidden "release oil seal" switch in the housing (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Looks like I'll try to grab some quality time with a hammer and screwdriver this weekend (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)
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bjorn jacobson
post Aug 7 2004, 12:04 PM
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Maybe try to heat the part up. Throw it in the oven or use a torch to see if the different metals will expand at different rates, this may cuse the seal to just drop out.
Don't use too much heat, warpage issues.

BJ
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ambergris
post Aug 8 2004, 01:56 PM
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Woo hoo! Thanks to Red-Beard and Bjorn, as I used a combo of both your suggestions. I hope I didn't warp anything with the heat, or damage the housing too much. I used a screwdriver and hammer, and aimed the screwdriver flathead on the edge of the seal near the housing, pointing inwards towards the center of the seal. After banging on the seal (and hopefully not too much on the housing) I thought I saw that I had gotten the seal a little bit away from the edge of the housing. I then used a kitchen butane torch (used for creme brule usually) and applied heat to the housing around the seal. After all that, I tried my big-ass flathead screwdriver again as a pry-bar and managed to pop the damn seal out.

Thanks again to you guys. Hopefully I'll have the shift linkage re-assembled this afternoon!

Later,
Max
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Red-Beard
post Aug 8 2004, 04:56 PM
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Creme Brule - ummmm.

Those butane torches don't put out as much heat at the propane jobs or, my preference, MAPP Gas, so I'd bet you didn't hurt it at all.

My website _is_ still up, My Webpage So look at my shift improvements at the very end.

James
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thomasotten
post Aug 8 2004, 07:10 PM
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I don't understand, if this is a metal seal, how is it supposed to stop oil from getting out? Is there a rubber O-ring in the center? My car has the same problem, by the way.
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ambergris
post Aug 8 2004, 07:22 PM
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Hey thomasotten.
I used the Pelican Parts tech article, located here: Pelican Article
They have a pretty good pic of a new seal. You're right in that is a metal ring with rubber on the inside. I'll attach Pelican's pic


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Red-Beard
post Aug 8 2004, 09:10 PM
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The new seals are all rubber .
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