Clean your grounding points, What a great F ing idea! NOT! Options

[Ctrout]

So i decided that the car is running well enough that I can start getting to some of the more minor maintenance needs. Time to clean the ground points right? Start with the easiest ones first. I go for the negative battery cable. The ground point stud is rather rusty so I hit it with some WD-40. I start loosening the nut and then it tightens up as I turn it. I change direction and tighten the nut back up, add more WD-40 and start again. I turn the nut, it gets difficult again, then the stud snaps off! Anyone want to buy a 914 cheap? Doesn't start at the moment but I promise it runs (for a while). So what now? Looks like I have to cut a hole through the sail panel to replace the stud. Anyone ever done this before? I swear I have never had such trouble with a car before in my life! Glad I didn't decide to replace vacuum lines, the engine probably would have exploded.

[ThinAir]

Hang in there. It really is worth the driving experience!

One way to remedy the immediate situation is to purchase a grounding cable that is long enough to run from the battery to the upper starter bolt. I've seen this recommended by some as a way to cure charging problems by running a secondary cable to ensure a good ground, so it seems to me that you could probably run a single cable there and solve your problem.

The upper starter bolt has one end that "locks" into a slot on the starter to keep it from turning. The other end comes through the engine on the driver's side, just behind the plenum. There's a 17mm nut on it there and this is where you can run the cable to.

I don't remember what engine you have, but on my 72 1.7L is was right behind the throttle body and the space was a little tight, but very doable.

[SirAndy]

cut it off, grind it down flush, weld on another stud.

by now, you should feel very comfortable with the welder!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Andy

[RAR]

 I swear I have never had such trouble with a car before in my life!  

How old is your car?

[Ctrout]

It's 30 but I've owned a 1966 Mustang in 1989 and a 1965 Mustang in 1998 and they were relatively trouble free. My daily driver before I bought the 914 was a 1984 Bronco II. I still drive it and it is very reliable.

[GWN7]

WD 40 isn't a rust penetrating fluid. It's good for squeeks and putting on fishing lures. Spend the extra couple $$ and buy PP Blaster or one that is made to penatrate rust. It will work a lot better.

With all that rust on the ground post, it's a wonder the car started. Like mentioned, run a cable to the starter bolt in the engine bay.

[ChrisReale]

The most reliable car I have ever driven was my 1986 Subaru GL wagon. Even has a progressive carb and a flat four! Never let me down ever. Has 160,000 miles and still goes strong. Coming in at a close second is the 914. The problem is, most 914 owners are or were cheapskates and instead of fixing the existing problem, they would "rig something up" that would work, but not solve the issue. Thanks to them, now we get to deal with the problems, thus the term DAPO. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

[RAR]

It's 30 but I've owned a 1966 Mustang in 1989 and a 1965 Mustang in 1998 and they were relatively trouble free. My daily driver before I bought the 914 was a 1984 Bronco II. I still drive it and it is very reliable.

I hear ya. The 911 is just hitting 25 and it has been a remarkably reliable car. Still there are little things that it has needed. Hang in there, pretty soon we'll all own the classics of yesteryear.

[watsonrx13]

WD 40 isn't a rust penetrating fluid. It's good for squeeks and putting on fishing lures. Spend the extra couple $$ and buy PP Blaster or one that is made to penatrate rust. It will work a lot better.

GWN7 meant PB Blaster.

My most reliable vehicle has been, and still is, my Miata. I've owned it since new, June 1995, with 210,000+ miles. I don't work on the car, but take it to the dealership, even for oil changes. Before I 'rolled' over to full time employment, I was a contractor, which meant, if I didn't make it to work, I didn't get paid. The only time the car ever stopped/quit on me is when a radiator hose broke, on the way to work. I called the wrecker service and had the car towed to the dealer. My wife and her mom dropped off the mother-in-law's truck and I went to work. The dealership had the car finished that day and I picked it up after work.

I'm still working to get my teener roadworthy, but I plan to drive it only when I want to, not when I need to.

Hang in there, all of this effort is definately worth the joy of driving these things. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Brad Roberts]

Want the cheap ass 914 owners way to cure that grounding issue ??

Drill a hole next to it and pass a M8 bolt through the hole. You have access to the backside inside the fender well. Put the ground strap on it and tighten the bolt.


B

[Ctrout]

Now THAT's the kind of answer I was lookin' for! Thanks.

[Brad Roberts]

Use a lock washer under the ground cable so it digs into the sheet metal.


B

[SpecialK]

Brads "cheap ass" fix is exactly what I did when I had the same problem with my '75. I didn't chime in cause I figured it was kind of a...well...cheap ass way to fix it. Okay, okay I admit it....I'm a Cheap Ass, and damn proud of it!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bootyshake.gif)

[McMark]

Ahh, at least none of us are DAPO's in the making! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)