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> My race engine is ready for reassembly, with some new parts.
ChrisFoley
post Aug 7 2004, 07:34 PM
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The machine shop found 3 bent valves. I found a worn center main bearing and crank journal. Everything else looked ok.
With a little more valve spring pressure, and some new ceramic lifters from LN Engineering, I should have a better margin for error. And with a fresh crank, polished and balanced I should be able to finish the season.


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john rogers
post Aug 7 2004, 08:35 PM
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Did anyone determine why the valves were bent? I'd be concerned since I went through a couple of years of bent then broken exhaust valves. Found we were running race gas (10.5 to 1 c/r) but not enough total advance and it caused the exhaust valves to over heat some. Looks really good.
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ChrisFoley
post Aug 7 2004, 08:45 PM
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QUOTE(john rogers @ Aug 7 2004, 10:35 PM)
Did anyone determine why the valves were bent?

I found slight evidence of contact with the pistons from my over-rev 2 weeks ago. That's one reason for upping the spring pressures, which are actually still well below 200 lbs at the nose of the cam.

Tonight I assembled the crankshaft, with a new set of Carillo rods - one more improvement this time around.


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URY914
post Aug 7 2004, 08:47 PM
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QUOTE
Carillo rods


Sweet!

Paul
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Brad Roberts
post Aug 7 2004, 11:15 PM
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He he.. Chris took the crank shot just to prove he was legal for FP..LOL (not allowed to run a CW crank in SCCA FP class)

Looks good Chris.. get it back together so you can go play.


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ChrisFoley
post Aug 8 2004, 06:15 AM
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QUOTE(Brad Roberts @ Aug 8 2004, 01:15 AM)
(not allowed to run a CW crank in SCCA FP class)

Actually, nowadays, any ferrous crank with stock stroke and stock journal dia.'s is permitted.
I have a CW crank for the next engine that will spin another 1000 rpm faster!
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ChrisFoley
post Aug 8 2004, 06:28 AM
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QUOTE(Brad Roberts @ Aug 8 2004, 01:15 AM)
get it back together so you can go play.

If I move quickly enough we will make it out to Mid-Ohio for a National next weekend. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
One other thing I did while the engine is apart is upgrade the crankcase to accomodate my external oil pressure relief valve. Any oil bled off to keep the max pressure below 80 psi will go directly to the dry sump tank, instead of into the case.
I'm debating whether to go without the windage tray completely, or to put a couple of big holes into it. Also debating whether to go without the sump screen as well, and just use the -12AN inline screen I have.


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Jake Raby
post Aug 8 2004, 07:35 AM
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Chris... Think twice about adding the counterweight...

The lighter you can make that rotating mass, the better off you are!
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crash914
post Aug 8 2004, 07:40 AM
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Chris, where did you get the lifters made out of unobtainium?????/


Just kidding Charles, still waiting on mine.........
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ChrisFoley
post Aug 8 2004, 08:29 AM
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QUOTE(crash914 @ Aug 8 2004, 09:40 AM)
where did you get the lifters made out of unobtainium?

I agreed to take oversize lifters, and honed the bores to fit them.
I took my case to the same machinist who did the valves, where we used a nice (Sunnen I think) lifter bore hone. The result is a perfect fit with .001" clearance. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Brad Roberts
post Aug 8 2004, 10:05 AM
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I have a set of the ceramic lifters on the shelf. Call us Monday and I'll get them out to you. Charles can send us yours (if you have already paid for them)

Chris,

with that setup I wouldnt run the windage tray (or I would run two small plates to keep the oil from sloshing to far up the sides) Leave the middle open for oil drainback.


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Jake Raby
post Aug 8 2004, 10:52 AM
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And cut the tray just where the pushrod tubes drain away as well..

I have some ceramic lifters made especially for high revving engines.. They limit oil flow to the rocker boxes.
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ChrisFoley
post Aug 8 2004, 12:04 PM
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The bottom end is completely assembled.
I decided to go without a windage tray, and without the sump screen.
I also made clearance on the front of the case so I can use -12AN lines right up to the oil pump. It requires a very different engine mount setup.


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machina
post Aug 8 2004, 12:41 PM
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mark henry fabricated this mount for me.

only problem is the mount bolt interferes with the NPT => AN -10 adapter.
I will try using a 3/8" brass nipple extension to get it past that point.

Any suggestions besides that?

thanks,
dr


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ChrisFoley
post Aug 8 2004, 04:00 PM
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I fabricated a custom long fitting to clear the engine mount for my pump.
Also, without the fan housing in the way I moved my mounts forward by welding on a tube to each bolt location.


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ChrisFoley
post Aug 8 2004, 04:04 PM
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This is the curved crossbar I needed for those engine mounts.


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ChrisFoley
post Aug 8 2004, 04:05 PM
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I got the heads on this afternoon.


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machina
post Aug 8 2004, 04:55 PM
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QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Aug 8 2004, 06:04 PM)
This is the curved crossbar I needed for those engine mounts.

how did you curve that bar?

also the nipple I used worked out fine for the pump plate fitting.

dr
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Brad Roberts
post Aug 8 2004, 06:04 PM
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Heat.

Chris,

can we move the engine forward in the chassis for FP ??


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ChrisFoley
post Aug 8 2004, 07:05 PM
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QUOTE(Brad Roberts @ Aug 8 2004, 08:04 PM)
can we move the engine forward in the chassis for FP ??

PCS section D.1.m.6 "Motor mounts of alternate design and/or material may be used, but there shall be no change to the engine's fore and aft or vertical location..."
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