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tadink |
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 379 Joined: 28-December 09 From: Napa Member No.: 11,181 Region Association: Northern California ![]() |
Greetings -
my KYBs that came on this car are bone jarring. good grief. Almost unsafe on a bumpy road - I hate those things. The PO provided a set of rear Bils that he says have never been installed. not in box, rumbling around the trunk. Look pretty good - see pix. Having never done this, I'm not sure what all I need beyond what I've already got. Will the stuff that comes off the KYB install be reused for the Bils install? Is this a straightforward as is appears, or is there a 'gotcha' lurking just when you think you are nearly finished? any help certainly welcomed - best td Attached image(s) ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Bruce Hinds |
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#2
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V-8 madness ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 748 Joined: 27-December 06 From: Port Orchard, WA Member No.: 7,391 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() |
only gotcha I know about is use a spring compressor..... first time didn't know and had the bottom of the shock in a vice. When the nut came off the top it went through the wall.
When I put on the new springs I put a wheel on top of the spring and sat on it to compress the spring until I could get the nut on. |
stugray |
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#3
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,825 Joined: 17-September 09 From: Longmont, CO Member No.: 10,819 Region Association: None ![]() |
It doesnt look like those shocks will fit a 914 in the current configuration.
The nut on top isnt quite right. Maybe you can exchange the nuts. Stu |
Chris Pincetich |
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#4
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B-) ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,082 Joined: 3-October 05 From: Point Reyes Station, CA Member No.: 4,907 Region Association: Northern California ![]() |
Yes, get rid of the KYBs ASAP
When I did it, I removed one side, then carefully compared the old to the new and figured it out. It looks like that top nut on the Bils (the long tapered one) needs to be cranked down a lot more. You need more than 1/2 inch of exposed threads on top for the washer and nut that you can see from the inside of the trunk. |
Valy |
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#5
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,677 Joined: 6-April 10 From: Sunnyvale, CA Member No.: 11,573 Region Association: Northern California ![]() |
I use straps to tie the springs while compressed. You need 3 straps per spring.
TIE them, don't use the fast release! After you install the new springs, cut the straps. |
Mike Bellis |
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#6
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Resident Electrician ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8,347 Joined: 22-June 09 From: Midlothian TX Member No.: 10,496 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Should be a clip at the bottom the sets the ride height in the groove. Make sure the spring perch marry's with the clip to hold it in place. The top shaft nut holds on the the upper perch in place. It needs to be screwed down all the way to expose threads for the bushing nut.
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tadink |
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#7
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 379 Joined: 28-December 09 From: Napa Member No.: 11,181 Region Association: Northern California ![]() |
HI guys - thanks for the comments, par usual, I may be more confused than before I asked the original question - but that is me and my newb-ness and not you are your expertise.
so, here goes: 1. how far do I need to compress the springs? 2. I'll crank down the top nut to get 1/2" of clear threads - and then hopefully the existing nut on the kyb's will work? and all the other stuff too? (rubber bushing, etc)? 3. I have no idea about ride height - I'll share a pic of the other end of the shock can you tell if it is about right? Once it is in there - I'm assuming it is not an 'in-place' alteration? 4. any thoughts on how to compress the existing springs the 'red-neck' way vs. going to get a spring compressor? and, how far do they need to be compressed? sigh, I hate being a dope. thanks for your help... td Attached image(s) ![]() |
Bruce Hinds |
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#8
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V-8 madness ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 748 Joined: 27-December 06 From: Port Orchard, WA Member No.: 7,391 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() |
With the shock verticle, picture is up side down. You only need to compress the spring enough to relieve the pressure on the nut on top. Stock springs are pretty long, stronger springs are much shorter. Shouldn't be too much since it looks like the springs are set on the bottom perch slot. Once the springs are off there is a ring in the grove. You can put the ring in different grooves to get a different ride height. The groves are necessary since different springs are different lengths. You'll have to experiment.
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maf914 |
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#9
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Not a Guru! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,049 Joined: 30-April 03 From: Central Florida Member No.: 632 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
Tadink,
There is a good exploded picture of the shock assembly in the Haynes manual, Figure 6.4. It appears you have all of the pieces shown, but a picture is always helpful. Be careful if you get a spring compressor and do it yourself. Some of the compressors from tool rental shops are just plain scarey. There is a lot of energy in a compressed spring! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) |
TheCabinetmaker |
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#10
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I drive my car everyday ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8,336 Joined: 8-May 03 From: Tulsa, Ok. Member No.: 666 ![]() |
Its as simple as it looks. no gotchas. You don't need to change the springs. It looks like you have everything you need. Use two wrenches to tighten the top nut on the bilstein as tight as it will go. That will expose all the threads. You will reuse the rubber, washers, and the nut. Pay attention to which way the rubber comes off. The bil is set for full soft ride. Its just a matter of removing the old and installing the new.
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