Removing rear window, any advice? Options

[jgiroux67]

Whats the best way to remove the rear window without breaking it?

[Jeroen]

Be gentile and patient, just like when... ah, never mind (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

cheers,

Jeroen

[1bad914]

Poke a guitar string or wire thru the sealant on the side and carefully saw it back and forth to release the sealant. Have someone keep a hand on it while you do this. Just be gentle, it will not just fall out, you have to help it out.

Good luck,
Randy

[tdgray]

GO to your FLAPS and get some piano wire AND a windshield knife. Be very gentle and go slow. Always helps to have an extra pair of hands also.

[watsonrx13]

Have you removed everything that borders the glass?

For the minimum you should have removed the back pad, targa top pad and both targa side pads. You can leave the insulation pad in, to remove the glass, but it has been recommend to remove this pad and NOT replace it. BTW, when you remove the insulation pad there will be glue left over on the firewall. Since the back pad will cover this, you could leave the glue, but hey, since you're in there, why not just clean it up also and not leave it for the next owner to fix.

I just removed my glass last weekend, so here's a shot interior with the glass still attached. It wasn't difficult for me to remove the glass, I just pushed the glass on the bottom, into the car from the engine compartment, with one hand on each side. The glass is actually held in by the butyl tape, nothing else, ie, no clips.

Good luck and remember, this is glass, it is breakable and it is slightly heavy, so be ready.

[Joe Bob]

BFH and a shopvac?

[Eric_Shea]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Rob's got it. Take out the back pad, side pads and top pad. Remove what's left of the electrical tape on the bottom edge. The widow should be sitting on 3 rubber cushions (each about 2" long) on the bottom. Butyl tape (and those pads) is all that holds it in.

Have a new roll of butyl tape ready before you begin. Most places don't stock it. I got mine (#4196) from NAPA. They had to special order it and it was in the next day. $11.95 or something like that.

Being a guitarist by trade I can tell you that the knife works better than the strings, especially on stubborn windows (e.g.: my broken windshield). The rear should not be stubborn unless someone else has already been in there. It should simply pop out into the passengers compartment. If it rattles then it's loose and will basically fall out when you get the pads off. Be careful...

Does your rubber seal to the engine lid need to be replaced? Now's the time. There's another $45.00 (I'm good at spending money)

[watsonrx13]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) with Eric.

BTW, get the 1/4" butyl tape, not the normally stocked 3/8" or 1/2" tape, they're too wide.

Eric, one of these days, maybe one of my several annual trips to Vegas, we'll need to meet to exchange tips. I follow your post with great anticipation.

[jgiroux67]

Is there a cheaper option for the window to engine lid seal? It seems like it is just glued on to the window.

[jgiroux67]

Removal was a success. I used a trolling motor cable(my dad is a boat guy) to slice between the window and the tape/glue.
Thanks everyone!

So does anybody know a good/cheap replacement for the seal between the window and engine lid?

[Air_Cooled_Nut]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) with Eric.

BTW, get the 1/4" butyl tape, not the normally stocked 3/8" or 1/2" tape, they're too wide.

Eric, one of these days, maybe one of my several annual trips to Vegas, we'll need to meet to exchange tips. I follow your post with great anticipation.

What is the stock width? Too small width may affect the holding ability of the glass. I haven't gotten to this part (yet) but just something where size could make a difference...

[StratPlayer]

Glad this thread poped up,, I'm going to tackle the rear window job this upcoming week. I already have the butyl tape and its time to get the rear window resealed. Thanks all for the great advice on how this process is done.

[Eric_Shea]

Thanks Rob,

We should hook up. I may be in the Phoenix area soon... hurry (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Jim, stop by. I'm about ready to put the interior back in. Almost done!

Stock Butyl looks to be 1/4" as rob mentioned. It may even be smaller as that's the width of it after it's been smashed down.

Regarding the seal. It's pretty specific. It has a metal channel molded into the rubber. This metal channel fits snuggly into a metal channel on the body. I think it expensive but necessary. If you think $11 bucks for tape and $45 bucks for the seal you've effectively (properly) fixed your rear window for $60 bucks (shipping etc.)

Not a bad investment.