OT Problem with the "other" car Options

[Curvie Roadlover]

I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Montero Sport . Last week, I left my lights on when I went to work. I came out of work and the battery was dead. I got a jump start. Ever since, the car stalls when warmed up and idling. A year ago, I left the lights on and ran down the battery and the same thing happened, but after a day or so the problem went away. This has been going on for a week now. Anybody have any thoughts on this? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Jeroen]

Try disconnecting your battery for a while. This may reset your car's computer (if it has one that is)
It prolly got confused by the jumpstart and switched to safe/limping mode

Either that or the jumpstart f-ed up some electr.part(s)

[Gint]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) with Jeroen.

Does the Montero have a user accessible code scheme? You know, the flip the key on and off 40 times and then listen to the beeps and watch the lights flash.

[Curvie Roadlover]

Not to my knowledge. I disconnected the battery for about 5 minutes. The drive in to work tomorrow will tell if that did the trick. I've been having to drive all week braking with the left foot and giving a little throttle with the right foot. Kinda reminded me of driving the teener, you know, using both feet to drive (Hey, now the thread has 914 content) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Thanks for the advice, guys.

[ArtechnikA]

can't speak to you vehicle specifically, i just work wirh European cars. but most modern closed-loop engine-management systems are self-monitoring, for emissions and perfofrmance - this lets them maintain much closer control by 'learning' the environment instead of always having to react to it.

the computers 'learn' the short-term and long-term fuel trim requirements. if it loses its memory, it has to back to a default, baseline configuration that's probably not optimised for your specific conditions.

removing power from the vehicle (or - for quickest and most thorough results - connecting the DISCONNECTED battery terminals TO EACH OTHER) will 'cold boot' the ECU's and reset the fuel trims - it'll run not-quite-right- until it re-learns its environment. oh - this probably also clears all the OBD-II Readiness bits, so don't be hoping to pass an emissions test right away - takes a few (50-100) mi...

in some drive-by-wire cars (99-2002 New Beetle comes to mind) there is a throttle-body adaptation (learning...) that must be done after any total power interruption lasting longer than a few minutes. this requires a diagnostic scan tool like the dealers have or - a tool like the VAG-COM my company makes...

our interface can be used with OBD-II software, but we don't make or sell that (it's out there tho - we have links on the Ross-Tech website ... )

[Curvie Roadlover]

Well I disconnected the battery for about 20 minutes. Took it for a drive and the car still stalls. Hopefully it's in the "re-learn" mode. If it's still stalling by the time I get home from work tomorrow I'll try the connect the battery cables to each other for the "cold boot"