Question for 914/6 oil tank/oil change, Does it need a supplemental way to drain? Options

[930cabman]

This is the solution I came up with. I ordered the factory oil lines from the the tank to the cooler. It came with a union. I had a face machined then drilled and tapped it for a drain plug. I drilled the plug so I could safety wire it.

Thanks for chiming it, especially after several years ago. This is great information

[porschetub]

I am very happy I did this. It drains very quicky and isn't messy like disconnecting fittings. I use an aluminum washer from the valve cover as a sealing ring.

Exactly what I did ,used a NPT (?) 1/8" plug as mentioned works well ,I found I got more oil out once it was warm and drained quicky after stopping engine ,seemed I had less to drain from the engine that way ,cheers.

[930cabman]

Curious:

just how much oil is left in the system if only the sump is drained? Cannot be much as it appears to be the low point in the system TIA

[mb911]

Curious:

just how much oil is left in the system if only the sump is drained? Cannot be much as it appears to be the low point in the system TIA

Depends on wearing past the oil pump. I drain both areas to ensure a full or as full of change as I can do. I then measure that amount and put that back in as a starting point on a fresh change. Then warm the car up and check level and add as needed

[930cabman]

Curious:

just how much oil is left in the system if only the sump is drained? Cannot be much as it appears to be the low point in the system TIA

Depends on wearing past the oil pump. I drain both areas to ensure a full or as full of change as I can do. I then measure that amount and put that back in as a starting point on a fresh change. Then warm the car up and check level and add as needed

Thank you, I just dumped about what I filled with, about 10 qt which might be a bit much. Will fill with 9 qt next time.

Not sure how much is left in there (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif)

[ClayPerrine]

I am very happy I did this. It drains very quicky and isn't messy like disconnecting fittings. I use an aluminum washer from the valve cover as a sealing ring.

That’s nice
-12 or -16? Scratch that ….. pipe thread what size?
Where did you find it?

I’ve been splitting aluminum AN fittings in my line since 2005 without issues
Probably over 150 oil changes/events

That is a Porsche factory fitting... AKA a Cohline fitting. Drilling it for a drain plug is the modification.

[gereed75]

I am very happy I did this. It drains very quicky and isn't messy like disconnecting fittings. I use an aluminum washer from the valve cover as a sealing ring.

That’s nice
-12 or -16? Scratch that ….. pipe thread what size?
Where did you find it?

I’ve been splitting aluminum AN fittings in my line since 2005 without issues
Probably over 150 oil changes/events

That is a Porsche factory fitting... AKA a Cohline fitting. Drilling it for a drain plug is the modification.

thats what i have. aluminum washer and safety wire ez peazy

[930cabman]

After draining the oil from the sump (and getting 10 qts) and later opening up the line to the oil cooler, I collected less than 1/2 quart.

Is it worth it to insert a "T" fitting for less than 1/2 qt?

My gut says no, leave well enough alone

[Dead Air]

I'm glad I found this thread.
I have two really big adjustable wrenches on that joint.
I put all the force I was able with my right leg and I can't get that joint to loosen.
I'd hate to strip one of the nuts.
Can anyone think of something else I can try?

[Maltese Falcon]

AN#16 line with AN#16 tee/ safety wire. The remainder of the oil lines: T-Statt, Fr. cooler, are AN#12. B+W pic out of '80's "VW + Porsche" article.

[mlindner]

I just open the union on the left, drain and close.

[Cairo94507]

@Dead Air - I use the Porsche wrenches when I break that connection. I have them both on the fittings with about 1"-2" distance between the wrench handles and then I just grab the wrenches and squeeze them together. I don't like using adjustable wrenches on fittings. You could also try reversing the wrenches to try to tighten the fitting a bit to see if it breaks free. Maybe try some penetrating oil on the fitting and let is soak overnight. Just depends on how long since they were taken apart. Good luck- it is not an easy thing to do if the car is not on a lift. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[jfort]

I was planning on drilling the cap for a safety wire. I hadn't thought about a bulkhead T.

That's what I did.

[930cabman]

I just open the union on the left, drain and close.

I might go this route, is that 1/2" copper pipe/elbow?

[Robarabian]

I just bought one of those valves and need to plumb it as well. As to the Copper question, yes I am interested in what metal that is. Copper can work harden with the heat and over time become brittle and fracture.... which would be bad on the feed line...

I just open the union on the left, drain and close.

I might go this route, is that 1/2" copper pipe/elbow?

[fixer34]

I just bought one of those valves and need to plumb it as well. As to the Copper question, yes I am interested in what metal that is. Copper can work harden with the heat and over time become brittle and fracture.... which would be bad on the feed line...



Installing the Rothsport valve on stock hose can be done, just gets a little tight. The extra 2 hose clamps are to keep the bend from kinking. I replaced the oil line hose with new and there wasn't a preformed 'elbow'