what did you do to your 914 today Options

[rgalla9146]

Copied factory parts to fabricate a hand throttle for my GT project.
Cut up a heat control lever and welded it to copy shape of throttle lever.
(temporary green plastic for bushings)
Welded long 4mm bolt to length of brake tubing, welded solid rod into other end.
Fabricated rod support from small piece of 90 degree scrap.
Welded 'wing' onto throttle belcrank at pedal cluster for rod to push against.
Still need to find a ball to weld to new throttle lever.
First photo shows reshaped lever on right
Almost done

[dlee6204]

Trying to refresh the intake/FI system. Finished taking off the plenum(damn you slot head screws!) and cleaned up the engine tin and top of case. I still have a lot of cleaning to do, but this thing had a ton of dirt, grease, & general debris on it. Also need to sand/grind the surface rust off the battery tray.

I wanted to know if anyone has ever sprayed/poured anything into the plenum and let soak to remove the grime that has settled on the bottom? Same question for the runners? Finally, I'm seeing what look to be some hairline cracks on the top of the case. Does this look normal or concerning? EDIT: I think they're just imperfections in the case.Thanks !

I would suggest that if you have the ability to weld up the two sides of the intake plenum. This is now standard practice for me anytime I refresh a system as I've had multiple cars that leaked there.

[euro911]

Trying to refresh the intake/FI system. Finished taking off the plenum(damn you slot head screws!) and cleaned up the engine tin and top of case. I still have a lot of cleaning to do, but this thing had a ton of dirt, grease, & general debris on it. Also need to sand/grind the surface rust off the battery tray.

I wanted to know if anyone has ever sprayed/poured anything into the plenum and let soak to remove the grime that has settled on the bottom? Same question for the runners? Finally, I'm seeing what look to be some hairline cracks on the top of the case. Does this look normal or concerning? EDIT: I think they're just imperfections in the case.Thanks !

I would suggest that if you have the ability to weld up the two sides of the intake plenum. This is now standard practice for me anytime I refresh a system as I've had multiple cars that leaked there.

Any of the 'Foamy Bright' water soluble de-greasers work good on that grime, although you might get a variety of stiff bristle brushes to help (including tooth brushes). Spray, soak, brush, spray again, then hose down with high pressure water ... then air blow dry.

What appear to be cracks are just mold slag, nothing to be concerned with. You can grind/file them down if it makes you feel better. I did on a few cases.

914 Rubber sells a nifty kit of stainless steel Allen bolts if you hate the cheese-heads. That's all I use any more (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[Craigers17]

Trying to refresh the intake/FI system. Finished taking off the plenum(damn you slot head screws!) and cleaned up the engine tin and top of case. I still have a lot of cleaning to do, but this thing had a ton of dirt, grease, & general debris on it. Also need to sand/grind the surface rust off the battery tray.

I wanted to know if anyone has ever sprayed/poured anything into the plenum and let soak to remove the grime that has settled on the bottom? Same question for the runners? Finally, I'm seeing what look to be some hairline cracks on the top of the case. Does this look normal or concerning? EDIT: I think they're just imperfections in the case.Thanks !

I would suggest that if you have the ability to weld up the two sides of the intake plenum. This is now standard practice for me anytime I refresh a system as I've had multiple cars that leaked there.

Any of the 'Foamy Bright' water soluble de-greasers work good on that grime, although you might get a variety of stiff bristle brushes to help (including tooth brushes). Spray, soak, brush, spray again, then hose down with high pressure water ... then air blow dry.

What appear to be cracks are just mold slag, nothing to be concerned with. You can grind/file them down if it makes you feel better. I did on a few cases.

914 Rubber sells a nifty kit of stainless steel Allen bolts if you hate the cheese-heads. That's all I use any more (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

Mark,

Thanks for the advice. I've got an order to place at 914 Rubber, and their allen heads are definitely on the list. Thinking about hitting the runners with a long flexible brush to get all the soot /grime out. Thanks to @DRPHIL914 and @dlee6204 as well.... all good advice. On a separate note, Doug I'll take a set of those aluminum rocker covers....beautiful work!

[campbellcj]

Well I haven't done squat with my 914 in quite some time other than gingerly drive it to a few local events. I'm trying to get back into gear (pun intended) and make further progress before summer.

During my last couple track events I had tremendous difficulty with shifting, mainly 2-3 but it was not consistent. Now I know why.

First I found a seal/bushing in the base of my ancient 1st-gen Rennshift had slipped out of place and partly jammed the shift lever itself. I've had several issues with this Rennshift unit so it's not going back in the car, can't trust it.

Then I found a totally destroyed bushing at the trans end. Chunks fell out when I removed the cover. Luckily the firewall and other rear bushing are good/newer.

[Bleyseng]

Well I haven't done squat with my 914 in quite some time other than gingerly drive it to a few local events. I'm trying to get back into gear (pun intended) and make further progress before summer.

During my last couple track events I had tremendous difficulty with shifting, mainly 2-3 but it was not consistent. Now I know why.

First I found a seal/bushing in the base of my ancient 1st-gen Rennshift had slipped out of place and partly jammed the shift lever itself. I've had several issues with this Rennshift unit so it's not going back in the car, can't trust it.

Then I found a totally destroyed bushing at the trans end. Chunks fell out when I removed the cover. Luckily the firewall and other rear bushing are good/newer.

Slamming thru the gears again huh Chris?
Me? I just washed the 914 as it was sunny out and not too cold (42) plus the underside of the engine/tranny.

[rjames]

Installed a new Odyssey AGM battery today. Had to make a custom hold-down for it as it’s much smaller than the old school battery it replaced. Hopefully it lasts a good long time.

[euro911]

Hmmm ... that cup bushing looks like it's made from a pliable rubber, not hard plastic (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[falcor75]

https://www.instagram.com/p/B92JG43FPog/

Started it first time this year !

[ValcoOscar]

https://www.instagram.com/p/B92JG43FPog/

Started it first time this year !

Mats...sounds great my friend (IMG:style_emoticons/default/252.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/287.gif)

Oscar

[cali914]

Dream about if i will ever get it running with Corona virus cancelling everything in sight

[eric9144]

914 Quarantine is fun (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
Replaced some rubber stuff, took the wheels off to check out the brakes and see what I had going on in there, front's have brake ducts I didn't know about

[falcor75]

https://www.instagram.com/p/B92JG43FPog/

Started it first time this year !

Mats...sounds great my friend (IMG:style_emoticons/default/252.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/287.gif)

Oscar

Yes but once its back on the ground the really though choice will have to be made.
Which keyfob should I run this season? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

[914 Ranch]

I have been working on the Cold Air Intake for Carerror. I posted some new pictures on her build thread oer in the Paddock.

[mmichalik]

I've only been able to watch the '74 get rained on for the past week or ten days.....

[eric9144]

Swapped out the OE Frunk seal with the 914 rubber version. The OE one wasn't bad per say but with the glued sections etc, compared to the 914 Rubber re-pop it's not nearly as good.

[rjames]

I've only been able to watch the '74 get rained on for the past week or ten days.....

They do make bigger tarps... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

[mmichalik]

I've only been able to watch the '74 get rained on for the past week or ten days.....

They do make bigger tarps... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) It only leaks into the cabin. The rest is solid (I get the joke btw, just being a smart a$$)

[Craigers17]

Hit one of the runners with some 80 grit. Kind of like the look. Thinking of clearing the runners and painting the base matte black.

[Olympic 914]

Thought I would try again to work on the high idle. Hot it would idle at about 1350, that was with the idle screw on the throttle body totally closed. I was thinking it may just be the nature of the beast. I believe Raby recommended setting the idle for the 9590 cam at > 1000 anyway.

I had checked all the vacuum hose connections and was sure everything was tight.

I am running the 123 ign dizzy for d-jet and had it programmed to the "2" setting with the vacuum line hooked to the advance port on the throttle body.

I remember Rob @BeatNavy write about using the "B" setting and hooking up the Vac retard port on his engine. This seemed to work good for him. but since we have different ECU I used the "2" setting.

So I switched them around and am also using the "B" setting and vac retard and I have an adjustable idle now. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

With plenty of adjustment room using just the idle screw on the throttle body. and am able to further fine tune it with the knob on the ECU.

It just keeps getting better and better...