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> what did you do to your 914 today
Sleepin
post Oct 1 2014, 04:08 PM
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ClayPerrine
post Oct 1 2014, 04:32 PM
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QUOTE(BeatNavy @ Oct 1 2014, 12:20 PM) *

QUOTE(euro911 @ Oct 1 2014, 01:14 PM) *

Seeing that the pic of the motor only shows two terminals, it seems like they use resistors for the LOW and MID speed control too. Looking forward to the video (film at 11) ?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

I don't have a picture of it but the power switch connects with four (I think) prong plug to the outside of the housing. Connected to that on the inside of the housing are two "spring-like" things that could be resistors used to control a voltage drop or something depending on where you have the lever positioned. I wish I had taken more time yesterday to take pictures of it and try to understand how it really works. I just put 12v on it directly to verify the motor worked. Then I put it back in the housing and connected it to the four prong plug. I got nothing on low and mid but lots of air on high.

Yup, it'll be interesting to see what he has...


The "Spring like things" are the blower resistors. They are made that way to allow them to be cooled by the airflow from the fan. If one of them is broken, then the blower won't work on that speed.

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BeatNavy
post Oct 1 2014, 05:10 PM
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QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Oct 1 2014, 06:32 PM) *

The "Spring like things" are the blower resistors. They are made that way to allow them to be cooled by the airflow from the fan. If one of them is broken, then the blower won't work on that speed.

That makes sense. So does it follow that low speed runs through both resistors, mid through one, and high through none? If mine only works on high speed, does that mean both my resistors are broken and is there a way to repair?
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ClayPerrine
post Oct 1 2014, 05:13 PM
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QUOTE(BeatNavy @ Oct 1 2014, 06:10 PM) *

QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Oct 1 2014, 06:32 PM) *

The "Spring like things" are the blower resistors. They are made that way to allow them to be cooled by the airflow from the fan. If one of them is broken, then the blower won't work on that speed.

That makes sense. So does it follow that low speed runs through both resistors, mid through one, and high through none? If mine only works on high speed, does that mean both my resistors are broken and is there a way to repair?


You are partially correct. Low speed runs through both of them, medium runs through just one, and high bypasses them completely. So if the mid speed resistor breaks, then low and mid speeds don't work.

The only repair would be to replace them. IIRC, The same part is use on the 911 fresh air system, so there are lots of them available used.

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DRPHIL914
post Oct 1 2014, 05:27 PM
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Mine works on low, no medium or high....

Looks like I will have to pull the fan housing to see exactly what's up in there! I have a second one so I will pull the one apart to we if it has these resistors intact. Do you have a picture of them
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euro911
post Oct 1 2014, 08:16 PM
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QUOTE(Philip W. @ Oct 1 2014, 04:27 PM) *
Mine works on low, no medium or high....

Looks like I will have to pull the fan housing to see exactly what's up in there! I have a second one so I will pull the one apart to we if it has these resistors intact. Do you have a picture of them
Wouldn't the resistors (wire-wound springy-looking thingies) be somewhere on the dash control assembly? ... so you don't NEED to remove the fan (unless you just WANT to)?
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cary
post Oct 1 2014, 09:20 PM
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I'll try and take lots of pictures while I disassemble the fan tomorrow.

Best I can tell, everything happens on the fan motor like Clay said. The switch sends a ground signal only. I'll try and show that tomorrow with the S5 phone video. Then I'll try and bench test it with power showing the 3 different speeds.
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cary
post Oct 2 2014, 02:24 PM
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Lunch time ............ BeatNavy, those spring clamps are just what they look like. Unclip them just like you would a distributor cap. On the later fan with the PLASTIC framework it slides right off. I'm sorry to say yours is metal on metal and I assume is seized on there.
With that framework off you can easily drift off the impeller.

In attempt to create a good DIY set of instructions I broke my plastic framework trying to get the impeller off. I was looking at it backasswards.
The 73 rustoration had the same one so I'm back in business. Just need to find a replacement from some one. Bruce?

My stash had a metal on metal one like yours. I decided I'd fight that battle another day.The good part is the framework is metal so you can put it in a vice. If its your daily driver. This might be your best and fastest choice.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperC...C_pg1.htm#item1
But us being the cheap SOB's that we are. Keep squeezed PB Blaster into the tight seam between the motor and the framework. The problem is your looking for a inch of penetration. Then try and tap the motor downward.

Back to work ...................
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BeatNavy
post Oct 2 2014, 02:56 PM
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QUOTE(cary @ Oct 2 2014, 04:24 PM) *

Lunch time ............ BeatNavy, those spring clamps are just what they look like. Unclip them just like you would a distributor cap. On the later fan with the PLASTIC framework it slides right off. I'm sorry to say yours is metal on metal and I assume is seized on there.
With that framework off you can easily drift off the impeller.

In attempt to create a good DIY set of instructions I broke my plastic framework trying to get the impeller off. I was looking at it backasswards.
The 73 rustoration had the same one so I'm back in business. Just need to find a replacement from some one. Bruce?

My stash had a metal on metal one like yours. I decided I'd fight that battle another day.The good part is the framework is metal so you can put it in a vice. If its your daily driver. This might be your best and fastest choice.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperC...C_pg1.htm#item1
But us being the cheap SOB's that we are. Keep squeezed PB Blaster into the tight seam between the motor and the framework. The problem is your looking for a inch of penetration. Then try and tap the motor downward.

Back to work ...................

Ah-ha! That's probably what it is - metal on metal frozen. I'll probably give that a go before putting everything back together. I do have an extra fan in my '75 project teener. Do you think the motor/impeller or whole housing will fit in the early model? If not, I'll keep PB Blasting it. Or maybe I can switch resistors.

Good info, thanks!

QUOTE(euro911 @ Oct 1 2014, 10:16 PM) *

Wouldn't the resistors (wire-wound springy-looking thingies) be somewhere on the dash control assembly? ... so you don't NEED to remove the fan (unless you just WANT to)?

No, the spring-like resistors are inside the housing that holds motor and impeller. If I break it open again I'll take a picture.


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cary
post Oct 2 2014, 08:05 PM
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I have the picture of the resistor set up. I'll work on them during the Oregon/Arizona game.

I think the other motor will slip right in. I think we'll have another part for 914Rubber to create. The slip on foam ring that wraps around the framework that the motor sits in is made of foam. All of the ones I have are all just about disintegrated. Same foam that is used to hold in the blower intake screen. Which isn't in much better shape.
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DRPHIL914
post Oct 3 2014, 12:55 PM
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cant wait to get my fan motor working as well..... - last night i finally got to pulling my charcoal canaster and replaced the activated charcoal. I got tired of the fumes, and the tank pressure due to expansion when hot, the line is clear, the canister was blocked.- have had it disconnected, i should have done this a long time ago - 1 container of activated charcoal from petsmart- $17.00

PW
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Johny Blackstain
post Oct 3 2014, 01:11 PM
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Slowly plugging along; 2 done, 2 more to go. Holy sh*t it looks radical (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)


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AZ914
post Oct 3 2014, 01:35 PM
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^ Looks great!!
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Johns914
post Oct 3 2014, 03:40 PM
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Swapped out the battery from the Studebaker and drove it work.
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poorsche914
post Oct 3 2014, 04:36 PM
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QUOTE(Johny Blackstain @ Oct 3 2014, 03:11 PM) *
Slowly plugging along; 2 done, 2 more to go. Holy sh*t it looks radical (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

That looks so cool, Al (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
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Johny Blackstain
post Oct 3 2014, 04:55 PM
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QUOTE(poorsche914 @ Oct 3 2014, 06:36 PM) *

QUOTE(Johny Blackstain @ Oct 3 2014, 03:11 PM) *
Slowly plugging along; 2 done, 2 more to go. Holy sh*t it looks radical (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

That looks so cool, Al (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

Thanks, I'd like to take credit for the idea of the "Antisicle", however this 916 photo was my inspiration:


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Beeliner
post Oct 3 2014, 07:11 PM
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I got it back with a new 911 Master Cylinder....

So safe I let my buddy Stacie drive....Attached Image

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving-girl.gif)
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Johny Blackstain
post Oct 3 2014, 09:06 PM
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3 down, 1 to go. Blacked out the vent window pillar as well w/ vinyl tape. "It's the great pumpkin Charlie Brown!" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)


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03blueboo
post Oct 3 2014, 09:50 PM
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Many Cosmetic things today.

Added a passenger side mirror
Replaced pedal covers
Added a cover to the relays in the engine bay (I had to modify it a bit for the wiring that was done by DAPO).
Repainted and adjusted from roof clamps
Bled brakes.

Hopefully my new shocks and springs will arrive tomorrow!

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kkid
post Oct 3 2014, 11:56 PM
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Brake day here!

Installed front and rear restored brake calipers. Then I took my old 19mm MC out. Tomorrow I will install 17mm MC. Let's see how hard it is to put the pipes and hoses back in there.

Oh boy, do I have an ugliest brake reservoir clamp?
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