914 Jobs You Hate., Look for tips inside. Options

[EdwardBlume]

Anything rusted that resembles welding.

The main castle nut on the rear hubs.

The dash.

The airbox.

Rusted bolts under the rocker panels.

3M butyl seal replacement on the rear window with a roll bar by yourself.

Good beer and a hockey game.

Anything rusted or broken in the center tunnel.

And lastly, the biggest 914 job I hate is buying parts from expensive sources (you all know who they are) when you absolutely need the part right away.

[Van]

Funny... I always hated trying to put in a battery without removing the engine lid.

I've changed a few master cylinders, and don't recall having much of a problem with the reservoir lines. I think I undid the reservoir clamp to give myself more room, then used a little o-ring assembly grease to get the hoses in the rubber grommets of the new MC.

[campbellcj]

1) Anything in the pedal or lower dash area in a car with a rollcage
2) Fan belt on a -6 with the engine in the car
3) Airbox and vent controls: I ripped all that stuff out of my car, which was a beotch but now I'll never have to fool with it again

[Prospectfarms]

installing rear trunk torsion bars (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Yup air box is a PITA too

Even though I have not encountered all the possible hard tasks of these cars, I agree with Scotty - the rear trunk torsion bars.

I replaced the plastic wheels with brass and got both sides on the first time. Then I took one side off, don't even remember why, but now can't even come close to getting it back on. It barely holds up with one working but it works.

Even thought of going to the pneumatic shock type and eliminating them altogether.

Next worst is the master cylinder....very hard to get to.

Dave

My "tip."
Replacing the trunk hinge wheel made me weep until I realized that lifting the torsion bar is a multi-step process.
Beginning with a fully released bar:
1. I lifted it with a small diameter, deep socket on a straight handle.
2. hooked the bar below its first turn with the hook of a cut-out crescent wrench handle and used the wrench as a lever to moved the bar upward in an arc from back to front.
3. Continue moving the bar toward the trunk hinge until it's necessary to pass it back to the socket driver, then lay the bar underneath the hinge-wheel axel where it rests.
4. Slip the wheel onto the axel and manhandled the bar downward enough to clear the wheel, then allow it to come back up to rest on the "rim" where it belongs.

The point is that the other excellent forum threads (with good pictures) on the subject were not specific about the process in step 3 where the hold on the bar must be exchanged from the modified crescent wrench back to the deep socket (in order to clear the sheet metal bracket that holds part of the engine hatch grill).

Easier to do than to describe.

Good luck.

[Mike D.]

Anything that involves removing the heat exchangers. I swear every time I turn one of those nuts, on or off, I lose a stud! EVERY TIME! Fuching exhaust studs! grrrrrr..r..r..r.rr....