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PeeGreen 914 |
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#1
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Just when you think you're done...wait, there is more..lol ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 10,219 Joined: 21-September 06 From: Seattle, WA... actually Everett Member No.: 6,884 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() ![]() |
So I'm at the point of getting everything to line up right and am running into an issue I have not had before. When I installed the Elephant Racing fronts I used their self alligning kit on the rear bushing. The RSR rear bushing from Rebel is different. I can get everything to swing freely with the front tight but once I tighten the rear bolt it binds. If I loosen the front it still has a bind. Anyone have any thoughts?
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jmill |
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#2
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Green Hornet ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,449 Joined: 9-May 08 From: Racine, Wisconsin Member No.: 9,038 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() |
The rear needs to be lowered or the front raised. If you have their alignment washers on the front take them off. I have the same bushings and didn't need the washers. If your not using them you need to drop the rear down so it doesn't bind. Put a washer between the chassis and the cross bar. You can't go too thick because the chassis to bar mount has a tit that slides into the cross bar hole. That needs to slide in the hole in the cross bar to keep it from shifting around. You can also slide shim stock between the top of the aluminum bushing block and cross bar to push it down some.
The fronts have a sticker on them that say this side up. If you use the washers the kit says to rotate them so the sticker is down. You might even try to rotate them so the sticker is down without the washers to free up your binding issue. Attached image(s) ![]() |
PeeGreen 914 |
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#3
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Just when you think you're done...wait, there is more..lol ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 10,219 Joined: 21-September 06 From: Seattle, WA... actually Everett Member No.: 6,884 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() ![]() |
The fronts have a sticker on them that say this side up. If you use the washers the kit says to rotate them so the sticker is down. You might even try to rotate them so the sticker is down without the washers to free up your binding issue. Ah, you may have something here. I thought about shimming the rear but forgot to rotate the sticker side down. Thanks, I will give that a try (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
shuie |
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#4
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 352 Joined: 17-May 04 From: baton rouge, la Member No.: 2,075 ![]() |
Maybe call Chuck at Elephant?
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ArtechnikA |
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#5
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rich herzog ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 7,390 Joined: 4-April 03 From: Salted Roads, PA Member No.: 513 Region Association: None ![]() |
QUOTE The rear needs to be lowered or the front raised. Just for completeness, changes like that have side effects. One of the handling improvements incorporated into the I-series 911 (approximately MY 1976) was a tub change that lowered the front mount and raised the rear for improved anti-dive. Raising the rear pickup is a challenge for a pre-1976 911 and not many go to the bother, but lowering the front is easier. If you raise the front and/or lower the rear, it'll have the side effect of reducing the anti-dive. Is it enough to notice? I donno. And clearly you need the mounts to align without binding. Just be aware of all the interactions... |
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