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> Exhaust Studs, Need to find M10 to M8
aharder
post Jan 1 2012, 07:48 PM
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I recently saw some exhaust studs that were M10 on one end and M8 on the other.
Does anyone know where I get get these? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

I pulled one of mine out while tightening the nut (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif) and I want to replace all of mine with these. Mine are M8 all the way.
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dlee6204
post Jan 1 2012, 07:50 PM
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Here's one source...

https://www.belmetric.com/studs-step-studs-c-9_73.html
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stugray
post Jan 1 2012, 08:06 PM
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http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/a...Engine-Hardware

Stu
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aharder
post Jan 1 2012, 08:22 PM
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Thanks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
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Rand
post Jan 1 2012, 09:54 PM
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If you don't want to wait for shipping, try your local VW shop. Mine stocks them.
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Mark Henry
post Jan 2 2012, 11:00 AM
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QUOTE
https://www.belmetric.com/studs-step-studs-c-9_73.html


Those are too short or long, although the M9 is correct.
If you use the longer M10 you may need some washers, the others are all too short.
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jimkelly
post Jan 2 2012, 11:31 AM
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http://www.tangerineracing.com/engine.htm#Exhaust Port Step Studs
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TheCabinetmaker
post Jan 2 2012, 12:00 PM
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Jim, your sig cracked me up.
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SirAndy
post Jan 2 2012, 12:15 PM
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QUOTE(vsg914 @ Jan 2 2012, 10:00 AM) *

Jim, your sig cracked me up.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
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BKLA
post Jan 2 2012, 01:05 PM
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Your local Porsche dealer has them as well.

I paid $11 for (4) of them from Sunset Porsche. Cheapest parts ever from the dealer!
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KaptKaos
post Jan 2 2012, 09:24 PM
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Be careful when you drill and tap the larger studs. Make sure you drill at the proper angle, or you won't be able to seat your exhaust. Ask me how I know.....
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Jake Raby
post Jan 3 2012, 07:25 PM
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QUOTE(KaptKaos @ Jan 2 2012, 08:24 PM) *

Be careful when you drill and tap the larger studs. Make sure you drill at the proper angle, or you won't be able to seat your exhaust. Ask me how I know.....

Or on a 2.0 head you can drill right into the combustion chamber.
We have these studs made as well, 4340 chromoly and good to 65 lb/ft before they fail.
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ClayPerrine
post Jan 4 2012, 03:23 PM
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QUOTE(Jake Raby @ Jan 3 2012, 07:25 PM) *

QUOTE(KaptKaos @ Jan 2 2012, 08:24 PM) *

Be careful when you drill and tap the larger studs. Make sure you drill at the proper angle, or you won't be able to seat your exhaust. Ask me how I know.....

Or on a 2.0 head you can drill right into the combustion chamber.
We have these studs made as well, 4340 chromoly and good to 65 lb/ft before they fail.



Not just 2.0 heads.... It can happen on a 1.8 as well. BTDT...
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HAM Inc
post Jan 4 2012, 04:05 PM
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QUOTE
Or on a 2.0 head you can drill right into the combustion chamber.

It can happen with any T4 head. I have seen it soooo many times.

The row of studs that is closest to the crank (inner row) run right under the combustion chambers. Countless times I've had heads land in my shop where this repair went really bad. Not only have I seen them drill into the chambers, but I've seen them drill into the cylinder, and sometimes the piston too. This usually happens when drilling a busted stud and the drill rides off into the head.

The row of studs away from the crank (outer row) bottom very close to the ex. valve guides. I have seen lots of heads that were drilled right through the guide and the driller didn't stop til they ran into the valve!

Not to make a sales pitch, but this is why every pair of T4 heads I remanufacture gets new ex studs and if the bosses have flaky threads or any sort of insert I mill it out and weld in a new one, then remachine for a M8 stud, no inserts. The new studs are installed with a high quality Copper based anti-seize so if they ever do back out they won't pull threads.

The ex studs on these heads can be a real killer!
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