TRANSMISSION REBUILT DVD, TRANSMISSION REBUILT DVD Options

[BAO B]

HI,

BRAND NEW TO FORUM. LOOKING FOR TRANSMISSION REBUILT DVD.
APPRECIATE ANY INPUT.

THANKS,
BAO B

[Tom]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) Look for one of Dr. Evil.s posts, the link is in his signature.
EDIT: here is a link.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=113587
Tom

[BAO B]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) Look for one of Dr. Evil.s posts, the link is in his signature.
EDIT: here is a link.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=113587
Tom

THANK YOU TOM,
I WILL POST FURTHER QUESTIONS IN THE VERY NEAR FUTURE.

BAO B

[BAO B]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) Look for one of Dr. Evil.s posts, the link is in his signature.
EDIT: here is a link.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=113587
Tom

HERE IS MY PROBLEMS.
THE OIL SEAL OPENING SURFACE IS SCRATCHED WHEN I REMOVED THE OLD SEAL AND DID NOT DO A GOOD JOB ON IT. SEE PIC.

MY QUESTION IS ANYONE HAVE THIS SIMILAR PROBLEMS? EVERY TIME I TRY TO INSTALLED A NEW SEAL IT DISTORED AND NOT SEAL CORRECTLY.

WHAT IS MY BEST OPTION TO GO FORWARD. SOME SAY MAY BE GETTING ANOTHER CASE IS THE ONLY OPTION. IF THIS IS TRUE, WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO GO ABOUT.

THANKS FOR ANY INPUT.

BAO B.

[Dr Evil]

Hi Bao,

Your DVD is on its way as of tonight.

For your question, which oil seal?

If the surface that the seal sits on is not smooth, you can smooth it out with some fine sand paper and some time. If there is galling then you can fill it in with JB weld and smooth it with sand paper.

Any pics of the surface of the oil seal area?

[BAO B]

Hi Bao,

Your DVD is on its way as of tonight.

For your question, which oil seal?

If the surface that the seal sits on is not smooth, you can smooth it out with some fine sand paper and some time. If there is galling then you can fill it in with JB weld and smooth it with sand paper.

Any pics of the surface of the oil seal area?

DR. EVIL
THANKS FOR THE REPLY.
THE 2ND PIC WITH THE SHAFT STICKING OUT IS THE CLEAREST ONE.
YES, INDEED I HAVE TRY SMOOTHING IT OUT WITH SAND PAPER AND JB WELD TO FILL THE LOW SPOT AND SAND TO SMOOTH OUT. YET, WHEN INSTALLING NEW SEAL IT TEAR EVERY SINGLE TIME.

WHAT IS DIFFICULT IS THE MAIN SHAFT IN THE CENTER OF THE HOLE GIVING YOU VERY LIMITED SPACE TO REALLY DO A GOOD JOB TO SMOOTH THE SURFACE.

MAY BE IF I REMOVE THE GEARS AND THUS THE MAIN SHAFT IS OUT, THAT WILL GIVE MORE ROOM FOR ME TO WORK ON THE DAMAGED SURFACE.

IF I REMOVED ALL THE GEARS AND SEND YOU JUST THE CASE, CAN YOU PERFORM THE REPAIR AND INSTALL THE NEW OIL SEAL? JUST A THOUGHT FOR NOW.

THANKS AGAIN
BAO B

[VaccaRabite]

CAPS LOCK. TURN IT OFF. IT'S RUDE TO TYPE THIS WAY. PEOPLE THINK YOU ARE YELLING AT THEM.

THANKS.

[Black22]

CAPS LOCK. TURN IT OFF. IT'S RUDE TO TYPE THIS WAY. PEOPLE THINK YOU ARE YELLING AT THEM.

THANKS.

REALLY? I COULDN'T DETECT HIS TONE...ANYONE ELSE?

I think we can let someone with 7 posts to his credit slide on this and just try and help him with his problem.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) Maybe you could just LOAN him you're DVD Zach. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

[Richard Casto]

MAY BE IF I REMOVE THE GEARS AND THUS THE MAIN SHAFT IS OUT, THAT WILL GIVE MORE ROOM FOR ME TO WORK ON THE DAMAGED SURFACE.

It is easier if the gear stack is out as you don't have to mess with the main shaft being in the way. However once the seal is in, be careful as you reinsert the gear stack as you have to thread the needle and not tear the new seal.

It can be easy to pucker and then tear the sidewall on this seal as you press it into place. De-burring the edge of the case to cut down on any sharpness or burrs can help. You can try something like petroleum jelly as a lubricant as that also can help. Driving it in with something that is not wide enough also can cause it to bulge around the perimeter and that can also make it easier to tear. Try to find something that is almost the exact size of the bore. Sockets work well. Try different sizes to find one that is the right diameter.

Or if you are having leakage due to scratch in the metal and the JB weld fix is not working, you might also try something like a non-hardening sealant such as Curil-T.

Good luck and...

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

Richard

[Dr Evil]

Hi Bao,

Your DVD is on its way as of tonight.

For your question, which oil seal?

If the surface that the seal sits on is not smooth, you can smooth it out with some fine sand paper and some time. If there is galling then you can fill it in with JB weld and smooth it with sand paper.

Any pics of the surface of the oil seal area?

DR. EVIL
THANKS FOR THE REPLY.
THE 2ND PIC WITH THE SHAFT STICKING OUT IS THE CLEAREST ONE.
YES, INDEED I HAVE TRY SMOOTHING IT OUT WITH SAND PAPER AND JB WELD TO FILL THE LOW SPOT AND SAND TO SMOOTH OUT. YET, WHEN INSTALLING NEW SEAL IT TEAR EVERY SINGLE TIME.

WHAT IS DIFFICULT IS THE MAIN SHAFT IN THE CENTER OF THE HOLE GIVING YOU VERY LIMITED SPACE TO REALLY DO A GOOD JOB TO SMOOTH THE SURFACE.

MAY BE IF I REMOVE THE GEARS AND THUS THE MAIN SHAFT IS OUT, THAT WILL GIVE MORE ROOM FOR ME TO WORK ON THE DAMAGED SURFACE.

IF I REMOVED ALL THE GEARS AND SEND YOU JUST THE CASE, CAN YOU PERFORM THE REPAIR AND INSTALL THE NEW OIL SEAL? JUST A THOUGHT FOR NOW.

THANKS AGAIN
BAO B

Much easier with the shaft out. If you have problems still, I would be happy to repair the case and install a seal for you.

[BAO B]

Hi Bao,

Your DVD is on its way as of tonight.

For your question, which oil seal?

If the surface that the seal sits on is not smooth, you can smooth it out with some fine sand paper and some time. If there is galling then you can fill it in with JB weld and smooth it with sand paper.

Any pics of the surface of the oil seal area?

DR. EVIL
THANKS FOR THE REPLY.
THE 2ND PIC WITH THE SHAFT STICKING OUT IS THE CLEAREST ONE.
YES, INDEED I HAVE TRY SMOOTHING IT OUT WITH SAND PAPER AND JB WELD TO FILL THE LOW SPOT AND SAND TO SMOOTH OUT. YET, WHEN INSTALLING NEW SEAL IT TEAR EVERY SINGLE TIME.

WHAT IS DIFFICULT IS THE MAIN SHAFT IN THE CENTER OF THE HOLE GIVING YOU VERY LIMITED SPACE TO REALLY DO A GOOD JOB TO SMOOTH THE SURFACE.

MAY BE IF I REMOVE THE GEARS AND THUS THE MAIN SHAFT IS OUT, THAT WILL GIVE MORE ROOM FOR ME TO WORK ON THE DAMAGED SURFACE.

IF I REMOVED ALL THE GEARS AND SEND YOU JUST THE CASE, CAN YOU PERFORM THE REPAIR AND INSTALL THE NEW OIL SEAL? JUST A THOUGHT FOR NOW.

THANKS AGAIN
BAO B

Much easier with the shaft out. If you have problems still, I would be happy to repair the case and install a seal for you.

DR. EVIL,
IF I'M TO SHIPPED THE 901 TRANSMISSION CASE TO YOU I NEED TO REMOVED ALL GEARS, CORRECT? NEVER ATTEMPTED THIS BEFORE.. HOW DIFFICULT IS IT TO DO SO?

OK, OTHER THEN REMOVE THE TAIL END COVER HOUSING, ANY THING AFTER THAT I DON'T HAVE A CLUE. FROM MY PREVIOUS POST FROM THE 3RD PIC YOU CAN SEE THAT THE DIFFERENTIAL IS ALREADY REMOVED.

I WILL TRY TO PROCEED WITH YOUR REBUILT CD AS A GUIDE.
WHAT IS YOUR QUOTE TO SMOOTH OUT THE BORE SURFACE FOR THE OIL SEAL TO SIT ON? AND WHAT IS THE EASIEST WAY TO SHIPPED TO YOU?

THANKS AGAIN,
BAO B.

[BAO B]

MAY BE IF I REMOVE THE GEARS AND THUS THE MAIN SHAFT IS OUT, THAT WILL GIVE MORE ROOM FOR ME TO WORK ON THE DAMAGED SURFACE.

It is easier if the gear stack is out as you don't have to mess with the main shaft being in the way. However once the seal is in, be careful as you reinsert the gear stack as you have to thread the needle and not tear the new seal.

It can be easy to pucker and then tear the sidewall on this seal as you press it into place. De-burring the edge of the case to cut down on any sharpness or burrs can help. You can try something like petroleum jelly as a lubricant as that also can help. Driving it in with something that is not wide enough also can cause it to bulge around the perimeter and that can also make it easier to tear. Try to find something that is almost the exact size of the bore. Sockets work well. Try different sizes to find one that is the right diameter.

Or if you are having leakage due to scratch in the metal and the JB weld fix is not working, you might also try something like a non-hardening sealant such as Curil-T.

Good luck and...

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

Richard

Thank you Richard,

I never attempted before to remove a 901 transmission gear stack. One can understand that I'm somewhat nervous about removing and putting it back incorrectly and will mess the trans completely...

All that i really comfortable with is removing the tail end cover housing and is totally clueless from that point on. With all the gears staring at me....wow!
I did however removed the side plate and the differential when the original damaged oil seal was pushed through the opening and goes inside the case.

I don't think i have a choice but just to go forward and hope that you and the many good people from the forum can help out along the way

Thanks again,
Bao B

[pcar916]

I don't think i have a choice but just to go forward and hope that you and the many good people from the forum can help out along the way

You'll be fine with all of the knowledge here.

IMPORTANT: Make sure that, if you remove the gear stack before you study Dr. Evil's DVD, that you count the number of gaskets between the intermediate plate (that's the plate the gear-stack is fastened to) and the case. Also measure their thickness. Write that down so you can put it back together with the same number of gaskets (same thickness).

Those gaskets setup how deep the pinion gear (in your picture) fits into the ring gear on the differential. Very important.

When you get the DVD watch it several times and study the written notes too. Now in the video the ring is on the opposite side than your 901 because our 914's are mid engine cars, but the operations are the same. In fact it's easier with your 901 to fool around with the differential because we have to take the gear stack out just to remove it. The pinion gear is in the way.

Good luck!

[SLITS]

HEY MIKE (DR EVIL) ... PM ME YOUR PAYPAL ADDRESS FOR DONATION.

AND I AM YELLING AS I HAVE CHS (CAN'T HEAR SHIT), SO I HAVE TO YELL TO HEAR MYSELF TYPE.

[Eric_Shea]

I never attempted before to remove a 901 transmission gear stack. One can understand that I'm somewhat nervous about removing and putting it back incorrectly and will mess the trans completely...

Dude... if Evil can do it... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[Dr Evil]

Bao,

The number of gaskets is not important, only the total thickness. Do not rush. Watch the video ENTIRELY and then proceed. Shipping the case to me empty is cheaper and easier for both of us if I am only fixing the case. If you send me a seal then I can fix it for $20 + shipping. If I need to buy the seal, it should not be much more. I may have one in stock. I am not looking to make money on this, I just want it fixed for you. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[BAO B]

Bao,

The number of gaskets is not important, only the total thickness. Do not rush. Watch the video ENTIRELY and then proceed. Shipping the case to me empty is cheaper and easier for both of us if I am only fixing the case. If you send me a seal then I can fix it for $20 + shipping. If I need to buy the seal, it should not be much more. I may have one in stock. I am not looking to make money on this, I just want it fixed for you. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Dr. Evil,

Look like this is my best option. I will view the video carefully and hopefully it will work out.
What is the best way to shipped the empty case to you? And how should i wrapped it?

Thanks again
Bao B

[Dr Evil]

FedEx Ground is cheapest. Place the case in a plastic bag, tape it up so it doesnt leak into the box, and place it into a box. You could put it into a small rubbermade box and zip-tie the top on if you like. Works good (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[charliew]

I bet a piece of pvc pipe the right diameter and longer than the input shaft would help install the seal.

[BAO B]

I bet a piece of pvc pipe the right diameter and longer than the input shaft would help install the seal.

Thanks for your advice, i've try that method and the problem is not getting the oil in.. but once it's in you can actually see tear on multiple places on the O.D. of the seal due to the fact that the bore is not totally smooth (damaged i made when removing original seal) and causes the oil seal to tear as it entered the bore (opening).

Thanks again,
Bao B.