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> Vellios-JWest shift linkage progress thread, Started fabbing Vellios/JWest shift linkage
GeorgeRud
post Feb 12 2012, 08:49 PM
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Thanks for the pics, I didn't know Vellios had two styles of shift consoles. Mine looks like any late side-shifter trans console. Looking forward to hearing how it works when it's all bolted together.
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wingnut86
post Feb 12 2012, 09:26 PM
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Did you keep detailed measurements, material lists, etc that you can post to the thread for people to duplicate later, as a complement to your skills and hard labor (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Keep the images and status updates coming.

We truly appreciate your abilities.

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914dave
post Feb 13 2012, 08:12 AM
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Thanks guys. I've got drawings if anyone would want them. Need to assemble and be sure it all works first. That should happen in the next couple of weeks.
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914dave
post Feb 16 2012, 08:04 PM
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With the shifter base being above the carpet I had to make a cover for the adjustment hole.
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Here's what I decided to do.
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Purchased industrial u joints from Manhattan Supply Company for the engine bay shift rod. They came blank , so I could bore them to fit. Using the original set screws from the stock shift rods. Here they are after machining.
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The next step was to fabricate a shift rod for the engine bay. I used a 300 series stainless steel tube. It's 1" diameter with 1/16" wall thickness. The ends are solid plugs turned down to fit in the tube and in the u joints. The u joint ends have the tapered holes for the set screws. The tube was cross drilled in 4 places for welding.
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The next step was assembly and trial. Here's the riser in place with the tunnel shift rod in place.
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Installed the engine bay shift rod next.
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Then I tried the shifter . The stroke was my main concern. It's hard to run through the gears with no rpms. There is just enough clearance on the firewall bearing. About 1/16 of and inch. Just enough!!
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Well that's if for now. I still have to weld the oval flange from the original shift rod onto the firewall u joint. This way I can use the stock rubber accordian boot for weatherproofing. The rear u joint has it's own rubber boot to keep the crap out. It's time for a beer. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) Throttle and clutch cable next.

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Dion
post Feb 16 2012, 08:43 PM
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Awesome work Dave, Awesome!

Cheers,Dion (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) t
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wingnut86
post Feb 16 2012, 09:05 PM
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SEXY (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif)
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GeorgeRud
post Feb 16 2012, 09:52 PM
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Beautiful work!
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racerbvd
post Feb 17 2012, 03:39 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/new_shocked.gif) WOW[(IMG:style_emoticons/default/new_shocked.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/new_shocked.gif)
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Steve
post Feb 18 2012, 11:20 AM
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Nice job, but I am curious why you need the early style ball and socket shifter. Can't you use the 914 sideshifter rennshift and just flip it?
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914dave
post Feb 18 2012, 05:09 PM
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Nice job, but I am curious why you need the early style ball and socket shifter. Can't you use the 914 sideshifter rennshift and just flip it?

Steve,
The reason for the ball and socket is to reverse the shift pattern. Using the original coupler would put 1st/2nd gear shift plane on the passenger side of the car. Adding the 2 1/2" riser almost duplicates the original throw below the ball in the stock Rennshift. It's about 1/4" shorter. This way the throw of the shifter remains close to the same and the direction is reversed. Without making the shifter too tall.
Dave
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Steve
post Feb 18 2012, 06:42 PM
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QUOTE(914dave @ Feb 18 2012, 04:09 PM) *

Nice job, but I am curious why you need the early style ball and socket shifter. Can't you use the 914 sideshifter rennshift and just flip it?

Steve,
The reason for the ball and socket is to reverse the shift pattern. Using the original coupler would put 1st/2nd gear shift plane on the passenger side of the car. Adding the 2 1/2" riser almost duplicates the original throw below the ball in the stock Rennshift. It's about 1/4" shorter. This way the throw of the shifter remains close to the same and the direction is reversed. Without making the shifter too tall.
Dave


Thanks for the help!! Jwest said they would sell me the parts to convert mine to the ball and socket versus buying a new one. PMS also sells just the shift rod for the ball and socket that works with there firewall bearing that I have installed. Hopefully I won't run into any other surprises. My 916 trans is getting built at Hergesheimers. I could of bought a used Boxster for the price of this trans conversion.
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914dave
post Feb 19 2012, 09:38 AM
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Steve,
I hear what you're saying about the cost. I've done all the work myself and have the same amount in the tranny than I originally paid for the car. That being said , I won't have to baby anything once it's together.
Dave
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Steve
post Feb 19 2012, 11:50 AM
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I'm also looking forward to not having to "baby it" as well as gear ratios that better match the motor. My car is mainly street. If it was track only I would of kept the 901 trans.
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