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> OK, now what?, Outer rear brake adjusting screw
Part Pricer
post Aug 25 2004, 06:36 PM
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The outer rear brake adjusting screw is stripped. I can stick my 4MM hex key in there and it just spins like a chick on acid at a Dead concert.

Any suggestions on getting this thing to turn? Should I just cut a slot across it and turn it with a flathead?

Any BTDT would be greatly appreciated.
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ChrisFoley
post Aug 26 2004, 05:47 AM
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It's been a few years now since I dealt with a problem like that.
The only problem I see with cutting a slot is you migh have trouble screwing the cap back on later.
Is your hex key in real good condition? Is there a fractional inch hex key that you could file/grind a little to fit into the hole tightly?
As long as the screw isn't frozen in the caliper piston you shouldn't have too much trouble getting it to adjust.
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anthony
post Aug 26 2004, 08:42 AM
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Are you talking about the inboard or the outboard adjusting screw or the cap? The inboard cap is aluminum and easy to strip. The outboard one is plastic. The adjusting screws are steel and to me would be hard to strip.
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Cap'n Krusty
post Aug 26 2004, 11:29 AM
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Aluminum? Would that be the special "ferrous" aluminum? Steel, as I recall. True, easily stripped, but steel nevertheless. The Cap'n, feeling extraordinarily krusty today ............
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fiid
post Aug 26 2004, 12:57 PM
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Nope. The inside cover is aluminium (stock) and stips easily.

This is how I did mine:

Take the caliper off and get it in a vice. Get the dremel with a cut-off wheel and cut a slot in the top of it. IIRC the clearance is a bit tight - don't cut the caliper. I cut my slot at an angle, and then put a screwdriver in there to hammer it around. It also helps to spray with penetrating oil and leave it overnight.

Once you have gotten it out, beat it into submission with a large hammer, and order replacement steel ones. I would also put some antiseize on them when you put them in. Then you have a hope in hell of adjusting your brakes with the calipers on the car.

l8r,

Fiid.
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anthony
post Aug 26 2004, 01:06 PM
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Cap, you must be having an off day. The factory inboard covers are definitely aluminum although Pelican sells steel replacements. I did the same procedure Fiid describes - cut a slot across the top with my 3" cut off tool so I could get to it with a big screwdriver.
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rj777
post Aug 26 2004, 01:11 PM
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just finished this job, before you cut anything try fitting an sae allen even if you have to use a hammer, also DON'T forget that there is a lock nut that might need to be loosened first...good luck...who would have thought i'd be an expert at this job
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fiid
post Aug 26 2004, 01:13 PM
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Hmmm.... you said outside adjustment screw. Teach me not to read the question. It is very common to strip the inside adustment cap, so that is the conclusion I leap to.

Pelican's catalog does not list replacement adjustment screws, so you might want to call Brad/Rich @ HPH and ask how to replace them, and if they have replacements available.

I _THINK_ you can cut a slot accross the top, and take it out to replace it.

Another technique I have used is to hammer a torx head into the head and use that to grip it. The thinner profile may allow you to get some grip. That part is definately steel, and I think there might be a retaining strategy for it which you may need to defeat to get it out.

Fiid.
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fiid
post Aug 26 2004, 01:14 PM
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RJ777 is right - there is a lock nut. Make sure that is loose or off first.
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anthony
post Aug 26 2004, 01:44 PM
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I was the one who mentioned the inside cap because that is usually what strips. Having just done a full brake job I'm having a hard time seeing how one could strip the outside adjuster. It seems like hard steel. maybe the outside plastic cap is what is stripped? When I first started I thought the outside cap was the adjuster.

P.S. For anyone else contemplating a rear brake job, don't reinstall the calipers without the inboard cap in place otherside you'll lose your adjuster. It will just pop out.
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Mark Henry
post Aug 26 2004, 01:46 PM
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The down and dirty method to get off the cap screw, cheese head screws, axel bolts or anything else that strips.
Take a chisel whack it dead on to make a notch, then angle the chisel and whack it again, this will loosen almost any stuck fastener.
Makes a mess of the fastener but you're replacing it anyways, right?

I've even done this to a stuck oil filter on a diesel Jetta.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)
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post Aug 26 2004, 01:46 PM
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Do what Fiid suggests. Use a Torx and tap it in. I think it is a T-25 that fits it. The 6 star points on the Torx fit perfectly into the 6 corners of the hex recess. This is what I did to get one of mine out many years ago. It will fit tightly enough that it will be hard to get the cap back off of the torx head.

Demick
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