Epic 914 story, For every high there's a low Options

[infraredcalvin]

Good story, going to have plenty of them with this car. I got my 930 from NorCal, bought it filled it up with gas and it died at the pump. 1/2 hr of cursing and scratching my head i replaced a pressurized fuel recirc hose (free from a biker shop around the corner) I flogged it 400 miles home. Been loving it ever since! Have lots of fun with her! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/evilgrin.gif)

[xsJerry]

I was thinking to myself, How did he pop a CV so easily with a 1.8? then I noticed the pic of the header and the original post.. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


Keep a spare cv in the trunk with the stub axle, Keep a breaker bar with the right socket (its like 1" or something) and then a smaller ratchet with the allen. You can change the CV on the side of the road in about 25 minutes assuming that you have broken loose the stub axle previously in the cars life.

You pop the stub axle nut off, start loosening the allen bolts on the trani flange and roll the car forward to get all the bolts, then a screwdriver or even just your hands to push the cv up to separate from the trani and pull at an angle (might have to tap the stub on the outer side) and out pops the cv. Install is in reverse.

Ok, I know I need a manual, but what and where is the stub axle nut? The axles turned out to be the Renegade axles which use the bus CV. I think someone mentioned it.

I'm definitely upping my AAA roadside service when I go to the AAA office to insure, transfer, and reg. this thing. Nice to be able to do it all in one office w/ no line.

I know i'm probably paranoid, but if you look at the photo of the car on the truck. The driver had it all cinched down, and then hit the winch to put tension on it for good measure. It bent the crap out of the hook, and I'm wondering if this kind of treatment could be damaging to the car or at least the alignment. These things aren't very beefy you know.

[DRPHIL914]

Nice Car, Love the color!- Looks very similar to mine- which is copper metalic but respray a little darker- and was only an option in 75,76- not many out there, if it is the copper metalic, do you know if it is the original color?

anyway glad you got it figured out, hope you are on the road soon - nice conversion too. should have less problems than those of us trying to keep the original injection 4's going.

[xsJerry]

Nice Car, Love the color!- Looks very similar to mine- which is copper metalic but respray a little darker- and was only an option in 75,76- not many out there, if it is the copper metalic, do you know if it is the original color?

anyway glad you got it figured out, hope you are on the road soon - nice conversion too. should have less problems than those of us trying to keep the original injection 4's going.

I like the color too. It is not as good a paint job as the photos suggest. It was originally orange, and the trunks are still the original color.

The conversion is very nice. I really wanted a 2.0 (I wasn't even considering v8s), and I had driven down to Los Gatos to look at a silver 72 w/ a rebuilt 2.0 set up for autoX, but it was a little rough for me. The guy also had this 5.7 that was much cleaner (for the same price). It has not rust at all cept for a small patch in the rear trunk. I reluctantly test drove it since I was down there, and it was so sweet, I couldn't walk away from it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Andyrew]

Look through the center of the wheel, where the center cap is (needs to be removed), That is the stub nut.

The bent hook IMHO didnt do anything to the tub. That hook is really weak.


What did you pay for the car? It looks very clean for a conversion!

[xsJerry]

Look through the center of the wheel, where the center cap is (needs to be removed), That is the stub nut.

The bent hook IMHO didnt do anything to the tub. That hook is really weak.


What did you pay for the car? It looks very clean for a conversion!

$6500

[Andyrew]

That is a really good price! Congrats! I would have expected well north of 8k!

[DRPHIL914]

Look through the center of the wheel, where the center cap is (needs to be removed), That is the stub nut.

The bent hook IMHO didnt do anything to the tub. That hook is really weak.


What did you pay for the car? It looks very clean for a conversion!

$6500

That's great! Once you have it fixed and running, share some more pictures in and out, had not seen this rare, I doubt previous owner was active here. What kind of V8system?

[SirAndy]

I know i'm probably paranoid, but if you look at the photo of the car on the truck. The driver had it all cinched down, and then hit the winch to put tension on it for good measure. It bent the crap out of the hook, and I'm wondering if this kind of treatment could be damaging to the car or at least the alignment. These things aren't very beefy you know.

If you are talking about the tow hook in the front, it was never designed to take any downward force.

It's a tow hook, meaning you add a strap to it to tow your 914 behind another car ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

[xsJerry]

It turned out not to be a dead CV after all. there's an adapter plate (see photo) with four bolts and two pins. three of the bolts backed out, and the fourth sheered. I've got the broken bolt out, now I need to figure out how to keep the new ones in. Lock washers? Lock-tight?

Also I'm hoping someone out there can help me with some torque specs for:
-the stub axle bolt
- the ALUMINUM lug nuts on the 5 lug cooky cutters.

[matthepcat]

Yea, I had those on my car. They would always loosen up even with lock tight. I recommend to clean them well, use washers and a torque wrench to get them correctly tight.

In the end I went with 944 cv's and modified 914 axles and problem solved.

Matt

[mightyohm]

I popped a CV the day I bought my car. In my case it wasn't an adapter, the CV bolts unthreaded and it actually came right off the output shaft, but I know that clunk pretty well (it's happened to me twice!).

Welcome to 914 ownership. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/evilgrin.gif)

[euro911]

It turned out not to be a dead CV after all. there's an adapter plate (see photo) with four bolts and two pins. three of the bolts backed out, and the fourth sheered. I've got the broken bolt out, now I need to figure out how to keep the new ones in. Lock washers? Lock-tight? ...

Jerry, pick up a quantity of Schnorr washers like Brant mentioned earlier. If you can't source them locally, you can get them from Eric Shea at PMB: http://www.pmbperformance.com/catalog/item...868/5749889.htm

Install new Schnorrs at each CV (cheap insurance at only 20 cents each) and torque the bolts to 31 ft lbs.

Wheel nuts 94 ft lbs.

[xsJerry]

It turned out not to be a dead CV after all. there's an adapter plate (see photo) with four bolts and two pins. three of the bolts backed out, and the fourth sheered. I've got the broken bolt out, now I need to figure out how to keep the new ones in. Lock washers? Lock-tight? ...

Jerry, pick up a quantity of Schnorr washers like Brant mentioned earlier. If you can't source them locally, you can get them from Eric Shea at PMB: http://www.pmbperformance.com/catalog/item...868/5749889.htm

Install new Schnorrs at each CV (cheap insurance at only 20 cents each) and torque the bolts to 31 ft lbs.

Wheel nuts 94 ft lbs.

thanks

[Andyrew]

Stub axle nut is somewhere around 250 lbs. But in reality it doesnt need to be that high.. I just take my biggest wrench and give it the most I can give without physically jumping on it.

[computers4kids]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) and nice sleeper (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif) Torque is a killer in these cars. Better you break a cv than tear-up your gear box or tear your suspension arms. I highly recommend that you never, never dump the clutch or nail it in first or second gear at a dead stop. Does it still have a (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif) first gear? Let's see some engine and interior pics. That is is a good price and it looks like a clean conversion.

[slothness]

You might want to pick up a couple sets of Dr Evils CV nuts too. I had nothing but problems before with those damn bolts backing out. Since then I've had no problems at all.

[xsJerry]

You might want to pick up a couple sets of Dr Evils CV nuts too. I had nothing but problems before with those damn bolts backing out. Since then I've had no problems at all.

sounds good, but where does a nut fit into this equation? I don't see any nuts in there, just bolts.

[Dr Evil]

They are the CV bolts, and RJMII makes them now. Youc an reach him here via PM (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[slothness]

Oops, yeah I mean bolts not nuts. The head is drilled to allow you to thread a wire through the bolts and twist the wire esentially locking two bolts together.

After you put the new bolts on and torque them, you might want to drive a few miles because they will always come a little loose from friction/heat/settling/whatever. Then retorque the bolts to spec and install the wires, then you'll be good for many many miles...until you twist your axles off from the insane power of course (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)