Type I Oil pump for front mounted oil cooler?, Does anything else need to be done other than griding the tab? Options

[ThePaintedMan]

Eric,
I respect your opinion, along with all of the other gurus you mentioned. I've said multiple times and made it clear that I know its not "necessary" to even have the front mount. I was initially simply looking to see if was feasible. I'm happy to hear that it isn't necessary. I understand its a waste of time. I understand its a waste of money. I am an idiot, I know. Just was curious if its possible and what was necessary. Think I'll just let it be for now. Thanks to everyone for sharing your opinions anyway.

[yeahmag]

Please do some testing. I myself am not convinced a stock 1.7 won't need some help in the cooling department in an endurance race.

[ChrisFoley]

What kind of tires will you be running? What's your suspension setup like?
I ask in order to get an idea of your cornering capabilities.
If you can't run DOT-R tires you won't really be working the engine all that hard.

[Jake Raby]

Greater volume is required to build higher pressure with the same internal clearances and oil viscosity. You won't raise PSI until you add volume. Large systems with big coolers and a lot of sharp bends in the fittings lose volume. Keep the oil system as small and simple as possible.

[ThePaintedMan]

Chris,
Tires are open, as long as they're DOT legal and treadwear > 190. I'm thinking Falken Azenis. However, this still won't mean we're pulling and kind of hard G's in the corners. We'll probably be running faster through the corners than most of the lead sleds, but nowhere near what many of you guys run. The car right now has 100 lb springs out back (AFAIK) with Konis and a stock front swaybar. I can't imagine doing much more to it without 1) upsetting the balance and 2) getting into the "suspicious" range. Every dollar that the car is valued over $500 (which includes bolt on parts, etc) gets us penalty laps added.

Jake,
Good to know. Again, I'll add that to my notes. Thank you.


-George

[ChrisFoley]

Chris,
Tires are open, as long as they're DOT legal and treadwear > 190. I'm thinking Falken Azenis. However, this still won't mean we're pulling and kind of hard G's in the corners. We'll probably be running faster through the corners than most of the lead sleds, but nowhere near what many of you guys run. The car right now has 100 lb springs out back (AFAIK) with Konis and a stock front swaybar. I can't imagine doing much more to it without 1) upsetting the balance and 2) getting into the "suspicious" range. Every dollar that the car is valued over $500 (which includes bolt on parts, etc) gets us penalty laps added.

Thats what I figured. I doubt you'll ever exceed 1g cornering. That translates to lots of time off throttle and at part throttle, allowing the oil temp to stabilize at a lower temperature.

I've driven very long distances on the highway at high speeds - more likely at greater average throttle setting than you will.

When I ran a 1.7L in ITB in the mid 90's I had Hoosier tires, 19mm front antisway bar, 21mm torsion bars, 140lb rear springs, short R&P - and I'm not sure I needed the small cooler I had.

[ThePaintedMan]

Yeah, I'm starting to think that we'll be okay as-is. However, I don't want to get caught out, ya know? If I'm wrong, then there will be little we can do at the track to make a change. I think that a front setup, as cool as it is, is probably best for another day... or a six! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) However, I'll let everyone know what route we do end up going.

SOT, Chris, what other suspension tips could you give me with the setup I already have? Would you recommend 140 lb rear springs to go with just the 19mm sway-bar I already have up front?

[ChrisFoley]

140 rear springs would be a good thing. You might find some used from someone making a further upgrade. You should be able to sell the 100s to someone who still has the stock -4 rear springs.
Set your ride height at 5" to the bottom of the rocker panels.
Set rear camber at 2 to 2.5 degrees negative and front camber at minus 1.5-2 degrees.
Run zero toe up front and 1/16" total toe in at the rear. (1/32" difference between the front and rear edges of the wheel, per side measured with the car between parallel strings.)
Start with the anti-sway bar at half stiff and make adjustments based on cornering feel.
If the car is a little loose that's fine. You'll need to plan on being on throttle as you enter the corners. Always make sure you downshift before corner entry so that the engine is above 3500rpm or you won't have enough torque to transfer weight onto the rear tires.
Upshift at 5700. There's no benefit from going higher.

This is what happens if you forget to downshift and try to go into a corner at speed

[LotusJoe]

140 rear springs would be a good thing. You might find some used from someone making a further upgrade. You should be able to sell the 100s to someone who still has the stock -4 rear springs.
Set your ride height at 5" to the bottom of the rocker panels.
Set rear camber at 2 to 2.5 degrees negative and front camber at minus 1.5-2 degrees.
Run zero toe up front and 1/16" total toe in at the rear. (1/32" difference between the front and rear edges of the wheel, per side measured with the car between parallel strings.)
Start with the anti-sway bar at half stiff and make adjustments based on cornering feel.
If the car is a little loose that's fine. You'll need to plan on being on throttle as you enter the corners. Always make sure you downshift before corner entry so that the engine is above 3500rpm or you won't have enough torque to transfer weight onto the rear tires.
Upshift at 5700. There's no benefit from going higher.

This is what happens if you forget to downshift and try to go into a corner at speed

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

[yeahmag]

I ran the Azenis with 180lb springs, 21mm torsion bars, and 19mm bar up front - no bar in rear. If you are still running a rear bar that should be OK for rear spring rate. Just for comparison I'm up at 275lb springs now, but on DOT-R tires.

I tend to spring the car and then use anti-sway bar for tuning, where some people use the anti-sway bar as an auxiliary spring.

[Phil Plummer]

Need, no. Want to, yes. It's easy even with the motor in the car.

Okay, now we're getting somewhere! Do I "want" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) to change both the primary and secondary then? Any specific vendor you would suggest? I'd assume Gene Berg.

OR, am I finally starting to make sense of this? Rather than changing the valves/springs, I could just use a Gene Berg Oil Pump Relief Cover, no? Geez, NOW I get it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Hey one this sujuect does anybody know where a "GOOD" priced Oil cooler for the front to go with a 916 front bumper can be Had?-Phil