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> Battery boiling over?, What causes
georgia914
post Sep 1 2004, 10:49 AM
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Alright guys...
My voltage is reading steady 16 on the guage while car is running. The battery is boiling over every time I crank. also if you are on the gas and let off, the rpms drop till the engine almost dies then comes back to 900 immediately?
Vaccuum advance doing that? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bootyshake.gif)
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bondo
post Sep 1 2004, 10:56 AM
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Something is seriously wrong with yor charging system. Probably your voltage regulator. Fix that, and your idle problem may go away too. Your battery should never see over about 14.5 volts. You will probably need a new battery... Get a sealed unit like an optima, so you don't rust your car to pieces. Also, spread plenty of baking soda all over under the battery, and sprinkle with water... keep doing that until the fizzing stops, then rinse well.
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SLITS
post Sep 1 2004, 10:56 AM
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Your Voltage Regulator is fried (stuck). Replace it before you cook the alternator too!
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georgia914
post Sep 1 2004, 11:20 AM
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Is it worth moving the battery to the trunk in a boat box?
This all started with a condenser going bad... then was my coil wiring "learning curve" my first 914.... what have I done?!?!?!?
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SLITS
post Sep 1 2004, 11:52 AM
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QUOTE(georgia914 @ Sep 1 2004, 10:20 AM)
Is it worth moving the battery to the trunk in a boat box?
This all started with a condenser going bad... then was my coil wiring "learning curve" my first 914.... what have I done?!?!?!?

You still should vent fumes to the atmosphere - that means drilling air tube holes in the floor of the trunk.

And if it all started with a bad condenser, I would be looking at the relay plate real carefully for burned/warped traces.
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lapuwali
post Sep 1 2004, 11:56 AM
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Battery location isn't the issue, and moving it won't fix anything. Your voltage regulator has crapped out, and you're seriously overcharging the battery. It would do the same thing if you mounted it up front. Clean out the battery area so the acid doesn't make everything rust, buy a new battery and a new voltage regulator, and your problem will be solved. If you buy an Optima or similar battery, you'll also substantially reduce the chances of acid dripping into the engine bay.

Condenser failure also had nothing to do with it. They fail, and need regular replacement, along with the points. True for any car with Kettering ignition. Replace them both with a Pertronix or the like and you'll never have that problem again, either.
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GWN7
post Sep 1 2004, 12:05 PM
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The bad voltage regulator is probably the cause why the coil and condensor both puked.
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plas76targa
post Sep 1 2004, 01:38 PM
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Have your battery tested first. I am experiencing the same problem AFTER a new VR was installed. We know it works cause we put it on another car and works fine. I thought it might be the Alternator but it tested okay. The owner of the auto electrical repair shop mentioned that if the battery lost a cell the VR would continually try to charge it. I bought a new battery and still overcharging. So I am chasing some other problem that has been a b***** to solve. I purchased a SECOND VR with no better result.

what ever you do, I wouldn't drive the car at all. If you solve your problem PLEASE post the cause and fix. I'll do the same.

How is the Gen light on the dash reacting?
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georgia914
post Sep 1 2004, 02:21 PM
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Have not noticed any change in the gen light. Comes on when you turn the key, goes out during crank cycle. It is just boiling enough to lift the battery caps. One thing after another...
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Downunderman
post Sep 1 2004, 04:18 PM
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I have had this problem a couple of times with the same result. Always after the engine has been out. The problem is that a couple of the wires to the voltage regulator were hooked up back to front. I can't remember which ones they are because after the last time I wired it with plugs that could only go back together one way. Doesn't matter what sort of battery it is. It will boil. I have fried 2 Odyssey 800's. If you are using a bosch solid state regulator it should survive. Mine did.
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