914-4 vacuum hose locations Options

[monkei]

hello, patrick a. here. just accquired a 1974 1.8l 914-4 and i have a good bit of work to do to make this vehicle in any sort of shape to go long distance cruisin/autocrossing. various electrical gremlins/nasty old rubber fuel lines and a lot of general tune up needs to be taken care of. im having trouble figuring out where some loose vacuum lines are to be routed. this first picture shows some vacuum valve that i believe is routed to that evap. can that looks like a tiny muffler and has a cut line that im not sure where to put:

[monkei]

the next pic shows an open vacuum port (middle front of motor) that i thought might be where the line from the last pic should go but the diameters are off and the line wont reach (maybe cut too short). im trying to figure out what this is supposed to be connected to:

[monkei]

btw that rediculous white thing is some plastic plug the previous owner jammed in there, not quite sure whats supposed to go there. the last pic is a very small vacuum port, i think on the vacuum advance for the the dist., that i need to figure out...

[monkei]

looked through the complete shop manual set my dad has only to realize it was printed in '73 and only had info on 1.7's and 2.0's of the time. was the 1.8 first made in 74?? anybody got a good vaccum or engine bay diagram for my application to refer to?? thanks.

[SpecialK]

PP to the rescue....if you haven't already, bookmark the Pelican Parts tech site, lots of good info!

http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/technical_...4_18FI_diag.htm

[SirAndy]

also, don't worry about that second vac-port on the dizzy. the factory simply put a hose on there that went to nothing. i guess it looked better than the "naked" port ...

that white cap is supposed to be a small black plastic cap. all it does is prevent stuff from falling onto your fan-belt. the hole is used for setting the timing.

good luck on the vac-hoses. oh, and clean that thing up when you get a chance, it's pretty dirty.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Andy

[monkei]

im gonna print up the PP diagrams and see what i can figure out. im a little more concerned with the engine idling without dying and getting it to not catch fire than i am with the motors cleanliness. ill get around to cleaning it all up sometime. ill post some pics of the car soon.

[monkei]

well, i feel kind of stupid. i was getting pretty frustrated looking at diagrams that did not match my engines' components and layout and decided to check to see if it was a different FI setup or motor. found out i have a 2.0 GA case with d-jet (i think). can anybody point me to a vacuum diagram for a 74 with that motor?? this car is kinda strange, no badges, euro spec tails and mirror but U.S. signals, chrome front and rear bumpers, and all the egr and evaporative emissions equip....? i think it was purchased from a german auto joint in livermore, ca. wonder if it was imported or just had some euro equipment. would there be any power benefit in unhooking/bypassing some of the emissions stuff? what would i take out? no smog!! cant wait to get this car tuned for autocrossing.

[2-OH!]

If it really is a 2.0, then the port on the back of the distributor cannister (the one in your photo) should go to a similar size port on the back side of the throttle body...It's a long run but it is the timing retard and needs to be connected to the vacuum port on the rear of the throttle body...

The hose on the front can be taken off ...But if it goes to a similar size port on the front of the throttle body, be sure to cap off the front port on the throttle body or you will lose vacuum...

I can't tell exactly from your photo, but the large port looks to be the AAR valve...This device speeds up the idle when it's cold...It should be connected to a similar size port on the top of the air cleaner...

I have removed all the smog gear off mine but I don't live in Californication...

2-OH!

[mike_the_man]

Here's a pic that might help you out.

[JeffBowlsby]

By the boot in your photo, your wiring harness is for D-Jet...not L-Jet, and they are not interchangeable. Its either a 1.7 or 2.0, unless someone planted a D-Jet FI on your 1.8 engine...its not unheard of.

If you have a GA case...chances are good you have a 2.0L engine good buddy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif)

....thats a gud thang' (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

2.0L cars have the throttel body sitting on top of the air plenum...the 1.7 cars have the TB off to the side.

Hey come on out to the 914 breakfast next saturday and meet everyone!

[SpecialK]

Here ya go!

http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/technical_...4_20FI_diag.htm

Man, I like the look of a clean engine....(a couple of posts up) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif)

[Bruce Allert]

Anyone know why some 2.0 throttle bodies have just one port for the vacuum and others have 2? I have the 1 port version and have found that connecting the vacuum hose from the rear of the vacuum canister to the rear (and only) port of the TB makes it run far better than having the hose go to the front of the canister.

Can someone explaine this?

thanks.......b

[monkei]

thanks for the pic and the link! i should be able to peice it together using that. im pretty sure its a d-jet. im positive its a 2.0 ga. anybody installed the solid motor mounts? is that a real tough installation? the drivetrain or car seems to buck when i shift. im gonna take care of some leaky fuel hoses around the fuel filter tomorrow. next things: buff the car out, solve brake light switch issue, and try to figure out the turn/e-flasher relay/wiring problem.

[monkei]

both the picture and the PP diagram dont show a charcoal canister or say anything about the expansion tank? i have a canister and a line soming from the expansion tank into the engine bay (pretty sure its routed somewhere its not supposed to be). Hey 2-OH, my cars a 74 and smog exempt now, even in CA. what smog/emissions/egr crap can i remove/bypass for better performance?

[SLITS]

1. Take the smog crap off (but save it for a while in case CA gets wierd)

2. The White Pipe plug covers the timing port. If it's not in place, you'll lose a shit pile of cooling air.

3. The charcol canister/expansion tank is mounted on the fuel tank - two hoses run from the front trunk to the engine bay thru the rocker panels and exit into the engine bay behind the heater blower fan. One is connected to a hose bib on the fan housing/tin (air supply) and the other to the air cleaner.

4. Dave Darling has a diagram of the '74 hose routing on the PP site you can print. http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/technical_...el_diagrams.htm

5. Look on the little shelf between the oil filler and the fan housing - if it's a GA 2.0, the number will be stamped there. Also, how many studs hold down the intake runners at the head - 3 = 2.0, 4 = 1.7/1.8

6. If your car is bucking on shift, probablility is the front motor mounts are shot. You can place a crowbar between the engine mount bar and engine case and pry up - if it moves a lot - the mounts are shot - two little rubber donuts right at the oil pump on the engine case. Can be changed in car - just a pain in the ass. BTW - Solid motor mounts in front will eventually crack your engine case.

7. Welcome to the site and have fun.

8. Bruce - the two port vs the one port TB is the dream of some engineer. Guess they decided that retard only was needed for emissions. Both TBs are marked 039 indicating 2.0, but supposedly '73s had the two port and '74s had the single. Go Figure. (I can also say that some were marked 021 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) )

Ok, my $0.50 for Sunday

[monkei]

fuel burns!!!!! next time i replace hoses down there im draining the tank.....

[monkei]

my 2.0 has the single vacuum port on the throttle body for the dist (diagram shows two pic shows one), the diagrams and pictures im looking at dont tell me about the charcoal canisters 3 ports and how theyre supposed to be routed , or where the vac line from the expansion tank ( i think) coming up from under the car through the engine tin goes. im having a bit of trouble trying to sort it out. i try to switch a line from one location to another as seen on a diagram and the diameters of the hose and port dont match and the like.... itd be nice to look at another 74 djet 2.0 to compare. my decel valve isnt even mounted along with some other large thing with 1 vacuum line going nowhere and an electrical connector. she started and idled nicely today when i first started after replacing a leaky 3-4" section of old fuel hose under the car that connects the fuel inlet to the filter. i still want to replace three other short sections of old hose down near the fuel pump and filter, all the hose come off of this plastic tri-junction. the idle wasnt as nice after i washed the car but i think that was just because the motor was warm from my little cruise. (btw, my car, when running, still creates a huge vacuum when the gas cap is on) i noticed a pool of standing water 2-3 inches deep at the most in the engine bay in the front corner on the drivers side. what is a good way to create a drain so it doesnt sit and rust? as mentioned in the earlier short post, i got all these weird burns on my neck and arms from the gas, i need to take a shower. i think im done for today. got the motor and tranny mounts confused... will solid tranny mounts (in rear) put any huge stress on the transaxle? would the 911 sport mounts be a good replacement for the front? whats involved in replacing both. do you just undo mounts and jack the drivetrain up enough to remove the old mounts and get new ones in? that seems to easy for a 914. clearance issues? other things need to be disconnected/removed to pull it of im sure...

btw wheres this 914 breakfast going down? my dads hosted a 914 gathering at his business before, and i autocrossed his car at marina so ive met some folks already. he did the west coast classic trip, or part of it. hes currently got his car at high performance house in redwood city getting a bunch of things done. (1.7l swapped out for a 2056cc, shift kit, new mounts etc..)

[2-OH!]

Monkei:

I have found the Pelican diagram to be...Well, not so correct...

Just run a line from the back of the vacuum advance canister to the one port on your throttle body and the line from the AAR valve to the top port on the air cleaner...

The decel valve can technically be removed...Just plug the ports you remove it from...

As for the charcoal cannister, I would leave that connected...If you don't you may get gas fumes...the large ports on the cannister are for air from the fan housing...There is one on the housing itself near the fuel injection brain and another on the other side in the tin near where the intake runner joins the #2 intake port...The cannister has a single large port on one end, hook the air inlet from the fan housing (or tin) there, and the other end of the cannister has a large port and a small one...The small one goes to a line that will either be in the tunnel down the center of the car or out through the rocker panels but up to the small port on your expansion tank...The large port on that side goes to another port on the air cleaner...

Remember, everything above the throttle body is air, everything below the throttle body is vacuum...

Make certain (by feeling all around the throttle body and plenum(the black can the Throttle body is bolted to) that all ports are plugged. I only have two hoses on vacuum now, one to the front side of the AAR valve and one to the MPS...The vacuum advance cannister, backside (advance retard) to the throttle body...There is one more hose to keep connected and that is the oil fill housing to the air cleaner...It's the largest hose in the compartment and goes to a fitting on the drivers side, front of the air cleaner...

The small hose on the expansion tank is "air-in" not vacuum...If you hook vaccumm to it it will implode, or cave in...Will do the same thing if you plug it and your performance will suffer as you get close to the bottm of a tank of gas...The tank system needs a breather to put air in as you take (use) gas out...It equalizes the pressure...

Remove all the smog stuff if the guys down there tell you the car will still pass smog test...That includes the pump and the manifold...If you are not going to take the engine out, then for now just remove (cut) the belt off the pump...Manifold removal requires you to plug the heads and the belt tripod is bolted to the fan and not recommended to be removed in the car...

There is a factory rubber nipple in a drain hole down on both sides of the area where you have standing water...Push the nipple out and do not replace it...It will only clog again with debris...

Sorry for the long post but my pictures won't post and it's hard to explain without them...

Good Luck...

2-OH!

[monkei]

i totally empathize with it being hard to describe... i thinnk im gonna order the 55$ hose kit off ebay for the 2.0 and hope that maybe their vacuum 'cartoon' helps me out.