Follow up on no rust Options

[kwlane]

Well, got the '76 yellow roller from sixnotfour and got the engine out of the rusty '72 tangerine. Now can rebuild a side shift tranny got recently with parts from the '72 tail shifter, dump the carbs for FI, and take everything of value off the '72 and put on the '76 once it gets painted. Should be done by next week.

I have to say the rusted one has a nice paint job, and a good hell hole. Sixnotfour pointed out where the mice had travelled from their nice nest up by the front of the tunnel inside that car, which explains the odd rust area up on the firewall, inside the firewall and inside the longs. Its a shame to dump the '72 but the yellow car is in great shape compared to those urine induced fatal flaws. Might open it up to see what it like inside the longs.

Does anyone know if the shocks, springs and strut be transfered from a '72 to a '76? From what I have read the lengths are slightly different? The '72 seems to have an autocross setup, pretty firm and tight.

[914werke]

by next Week!? Man you are fast!
Most everything will swap over.
Too bad about the 72 it did look good.
LMK if I can help Id like to see how that CB EFI works out.

BTW Yellow is Faster!

[VaccaRabite]

how bad can the rust be? Is this another Left Coast "OMG a spot of rust, cut up the car" story. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[TravisNeff]

You can transfer all the suspension over without any issues.

[sixnotfour]

Do you need the side shifter engine mount ?? I have one you can have.

[sanddog]

how bad can the rust be? Is this another Left Coast "OMG a spot of rust, cut up the car" story. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

How bad is the rust? Well, its probably not bad for PA, but for here its works out this way:

Fix orange car right means buying about $600 in new metal, cutting out and replacing back floors, firewall, right longs and looks like having to cut into fender, with rewelding fender and repaint.

OR for $500 get car with no structural rust, all metal to fix some relatively easy rust in trunk, but do have to paint.

So on west coast with good cars still around it seems like a no brainer.

Still like to save the other car, any one on east coast want it????

[914werke]

Kim your confusing us, can you stick w/one handle?

[kwlane]

Kim your confusing us, can you stick w/one handle?

Didn't notice that, different computer was opening with other handle.

[SirAndy]

Still like to save the other car, any one on east coast want it????

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpics.gif)

[Dave_Darling]

The front struts, ball joints, and brake rotors were changed in the 1972 model year. The early and late parts don't interchange. The later hub-centric wheels will not fit the early lug-centric hubs, but that particular change was made either later in the 72 model year or at the start of the 73 model year. (Depending on who you believe.)

The original rear springs could have been different rates on different years, but by this point in time the differences are probably lost in the noise--or the springs have been replaced with aftermarket ones.

--DD

[kwlane]

The front struts, ball joints, and brake rotors were changed in the 1972 model year. The early and late parts don't interchange. The later hub-centric wheels will not fit the early lug-centric hubs, but that particular change was made either later in the 72 model year or at the start of the 73 model year. (Depending on who you believe.)

The original rear springs could have been different rates on different years, but by this point in time the differences are probably lost in the noise--or the springs have been replaced with aftermarket ones.

--DD

Dave,
So the front struts might not be interchangable, but the back shock/springs can be. I find the struts to be rather mysterious anyway. I'm sure the ones on the 76 are shot so need to address at some point.

I think the rear springs were replaced on the older car, it rides pretty stiff. Is there anyway to tell if they are heavier than stock from looking at them?

Thanks

[sixnotfour]

The strut inserts are interchangeable, if you want to keep the hub centric rotors on the 76.

If you want to use your early struts complete (struts,inserts,hibs,brake caliper), you will have to change the ball joint also. There is a special socket for that.

yes, I have the engine lid and bumpers.

[kwlane]

The strut inserts are interchangeable, if you want to keep the hub centric rotors on the 76.

If you want to use your early struts complete (struts,inserts,hibs,brake caliper), you will have to change the ball joint also. There is a special socket for that.

yes, I have the engine lid and bumpers.

Thanks Jeff. From what I have read looks like new strut inserts are not that difficult to put in. Even though it will be a while probably like to get the lid and bumpers, as I'm trying to work a little bit every day on little stuff in the basement.
Too frigging cold in the garage.

Let me know if you are around this weekend.

[Dave_Darling]

I think the rear springs were replaced on the older car, it rides pretty stiff. Is there anyway to tell if they are heavier than stock from looking at them?

Just about all of the aftermarket springs are higher rate than the stock ones. Even the "stock" replacement ones probably are.

If the springs come out of the perches when you lift up the tail of the car, they are shorter than stock and are definitely aftermarket. And almost certainly higher rate than stock.

You may be able to measure the coil diameter and wire thickness and compare that to stock, but I'm not sure how reliable that is. But if you find any differences from the stock parts, chances are very high that the springs are indeed higher rate than stock.

--DD