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> When is rust terminal?
no1uno
post Feb 28 2012, 12:21 PM
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I recently acquired a '75 1.8 parts car. The hellhole area was allowed to worsen until the trailing arm mount broke making this car a 3 wheeler. I didn't buy it with the intent to fix it up but I can't help thinking about it since the rest of the car is pretty solid. Thought I'd ask before I start taking it apart.

Is it too far gone to attempt to get it back on the road? I understand that anything is possible with enough money and time. Realistically speaking, what would rough cost to repair be if it is possible. Should I run away now...

I'll try to upload a few pics this evening.
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jimkelly
post Feb 28 2012, 04:35 PM
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guessing - maybe about $4k to repair?

the consensus is to buy a rust free tub in kalifonia cali westcoast for about $1000 and ship it to you for about $1500.

it ias always hard to BELIEVE but buying a car that someone has already made awesome ($10k to $20k) is in the long run a BIG SAVINGS in dollars.

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larryM
post Feb 28 2012, 05:01 PM
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how fat is your checkbook?

- a "regular 914 - just junk it - worth more as parts

friend has a 914-6 racer which originally came from nor-east - recently discovered similar kind of problem - entire RR suspension broken loose and had been patched over once before

he is having it repaired since the rest of car is too specially done to reconstruct more cheaply

.


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stugray
post Feb 28 2012, 06:48 PM
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I recently purchased a running 71 1.8L, stock FI, with very nice parts all around and a pristine interior and perfect bumper rubber.

Got it home and up on stands and the PO had done a HORRIBLE repair to the longs.
You can crush the rear suspension consoles with your bare hands.

I now consider it just a (very good) parts car, but for $1000 and being able to drive it home, still a good deal.

Stu
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veltror
post Feb 28 2012, 07:12 PM
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As to whether to dispose of it depends, I did not have much choice... anyway
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ThePaintedMan
post Feb 28 2012, 07:51 PM
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My work has shown me if EVERYTHING else on the car is sound, you can do it for the $50 in sheet metal alone. Add in a couple cans of paint and some grinding discs, it could be less than $100. That is assuming, many, many other things. Do you have a welder? Jack stands? Grinder? Drill? C-clamps? Is the console itself good? Beer? Time?

It can be done, but most don't have the time. Or aren't as nuts as I am. You're either limited in time or money usually. Time can make up for money, as in my case.

If you're ever on the West Coast of FL, as in St. Pete/Tampa, let me know. I can show you what I've learned - which is a lot, whether its "right" or not.
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Dave_Darling
post Feb 28 2012, 09:08 PM
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Rust is terminal when you don't want to deal with it any more. If you want to repair it, and you keep making the effort, it's not terminal.

That said, if you pay someone else to do the work it would probably cost less to get another 914 from outside the Rust Belt with less rust.

--DD
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no1uno
post Feb 28 2012, 09:45 PM
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a few pics of hellhole and below


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flipb
post Feb 28 2012, 09:48 PM
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The primary factor to consider when evaluating whether or not you have a terminal rust issue is your Longitude.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)
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no1uno
post Feb 28 2012, 09:50 PM
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a couple more


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shuie
post Feb 28 2012, 10:10 PM
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Assuming that no other rust repair is needed (not likely), the sheetmetal alone needed to replace what is shown in the pics above will probably cost as much as a reasonably solid roller or tub. The time, labor, and parts that go into the rust repair of a 914 are really no cheaper than what goes into the rust repair of a 356, IMO.
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ThePaintedMan
post Feb 28 2012, 10:23 PM
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Wow. It is doubtful that you'll be able to fabricate all of those pieces. At a minimum you're looking at #8 - $300, #10 - $230 from

http://www.restoration-design.com/Merchant...tegory_Code=914

The other stuff can be fabricated but you would probably want to buy it from them. Restoration Design makes great stuff. Optionally you could do what I did and find another member here parting out a car who could cut a console and frame pieces for you. I would say closer to $1000 in the necessary steel. Then multiple hours measuring, cutting, welding and priming/painting. From the looks of it, there is probably MUCH more rust in other places (in the long) that will need attention. Its not terminal, but as said previously, you are the only person who can determine that. I got away with only the metal work on my car, which was in almost the same shape for only about $300 bucks. But I bought a used piece cut out of a car and fabricated the other pieces. Not to mention buying a welder and other tools and the over 50 hours put into it alone. Very rewarding experience though.
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no1uno
post Feb 28 2012, 10:28 PM
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Thanks for all the information and insight. I agree it's probably best to let this one live on as parts for other cars that are in better shape. I just hated to do that if there was an economical way to save it.
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ThePaintedMan
post Feb 28 2012, 10:46 PM
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Again, there definitely is. But you need plenty of time to make up for the money. And to find decent used parts. I hate seeing any car get chopped up too. Otherwise I would have left this lowly 1.7 alone. I love a challenge!
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