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> Possibly got robbed, update 3/13/12 IT IS FINISHED !!!
VaccaRabite
post Mar 12 2012, 10:16 AM
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I would love to hear how he thought the crank got buggered in the first place.

Zach
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worn
post Mar 12 2012, 10:22 AM
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From my look at the pix it seems like mostly rust damage connected to destruction of the roll pin when disassembling. I too wonder what the fly wheel looks like. I would guess a mirror image.

If there was enough land left surfaced at three points around the crank the flywheel would sit fairly true and might balance. I wonder though if that one would at full bolt torque. I also assume that the roll pin is there for positioning, so how can you attach the flywheel for balancing without the roll pin.

I agree that something is wrong and a new crank might be the path of wisdom. However, if the crank is turned true and the fly wheel surface is also checked out the shim solution ought to work. As long as the machinist takes the trouble to get the flywheel centered and true.

Just a guess - the machine shop doesn't do a lot of work with these engines?
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VaccaRabite
post Mar 12 2012, 11:15 AM
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If Tony (Translog) says that the repair will work, then it will work. If he did not think it would work then he would say so, and refuse the work (just as he refused to continue the work when he first saw the crank). He has too much of a rep around this area to take a chance on it not working.
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gothspeed
post Mar 12 2012, 12:02 PM
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QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Mar 12 2012, 07:36 AM) *

Please post pics of the repaired crank.

+914 ........... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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jsayre914
post Mar 12 2012, 12:15 PM
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QUOTE(gothspeed @ Mar 12 2012, 02:02 PM) *

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Mar 12 2012, 07:36 AM) *

Please post pics of the repaired crank.

+914 ........... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


Thats easy... who dosnt have a hundred pictures of their 914?? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif)

Attached Image


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jsayre914
post Mar 13 2012, 09:14 AM
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PICTURES

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Look good to everybody?? I am ready to drive this car (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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ChrisFoley
post Mar 13 2012, 10:36 AM
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Did he say how much material was removed?
As long as there's enough free play to use at least one adjustment shim it will be ok.
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jsayre914
post Mar 13 2012, 05:37 PM
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QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Mar 13 2012, 12:36 PM) *

Did he say how much material was removed?
As long as there's enough free play to use at least one adjustment shim it will be ok.

He did not say how much was removed, but he did say it was very little. Tony got it today and he said it should be fine.

It wont be long now (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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gothspeed
post Mar 13 2012, 05:46 PM
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QUOTE(john grier @ Oct 12 2008, 08:43 PM) *

Well if it were me I would buy it if it was an le or not, if the price was right

Looks good (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)!!
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Dr Evil
post Mar 13 2012, 06:10 PM
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The only thing I can think of is that you may need to shim the ball post on your transmission to bring the pivot point of the throw out bearing out .
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jsayre914
post Mar 14 2012, 10:26 AM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Mar 13 2012, 08:10 PM) *

The only thing I can think of is that you may need to shim the ball post on your transmission to bring the pivot point of the throw out bearing out .

Mike,

How will I know if this needs to be done?
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Dr Evil
post Mar 14 2012, 10:53 AM
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I would bet it does and it is not a problem to do it and not exactly need it. Just put another washer under the pivot ball, and seal the threads of the stud of the pivot ball with teflon as two washers will not keep the oil in.
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rwilner
post Mar 14 2012, 03:37 PM
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QUOTE(jsayre914 @ Mar 14 2012, 12:26 PM) *

QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Mar 13 2012, 08:10 PM) *

The only thing I can think of is that you may need to shim the ball post on your transmission to bring the pivot point of the throw out bearing out .

Mike,

How will I know if this needs to be done?


If your clutch arm hits the trans case before the clutch is released and the cable cant go any tighter without the clutch slipping, you need another washer. I think this is typical for a resurfaced flywheel.

I had to do this in my car -- put an extra washer under the TO arm pivot ball.
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Dr Evil
post Mar 14 2012, 03:59 PM
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Wow, that is like what I was talking about (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

Shimming is not usually an issue even if it is not necessary. Not shimming will suck because you need to pull the tranz back off to then shim it.
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gothspeed
post Mar 14 2012, 05:34 PM
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From what I understand, shimming for the 'end play' should make up for whatever material was removed and would put the flywheel in the same position as if the crank were not surfaced ......... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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cwpeden
post Mar 14 2012, 06:33 PM
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QUOTE(gothspeed @ Mar 14 2012, 04:34 PM) *

From what I understand, shimming for the 'end play' should make up for whatever material was removed and would put the flywheel in the same position as if the crank were not surfaced ......... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


Ditto, If anything he will need to use more shim to make up for lost material..
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ChrisFoley
post Mar 15 2012, 03:06 AM
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QUOTE(cwpeden @ Mar 14 2012, 07:33 PM) *

Ditto, If anything he will need to use more shim to make up for lost material..

Less shim, not more.
The end play shims go between the flywheel and main bearing thrust surface.
The machining done to remove the gouges moved the flywheel closer to the bearing.
The flywheel moved forward by the amount of material removed, thus the possible need to shim the clutch fork ball - same as if the flywheel was resurfaced.
Like Dr Evil said.

Tony at Translog will take care of the end play shims. Joe needs to determine if the clutch fork ball needs an extra washer.
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RFoulds
post Mar 15 2012, 11:05 AM
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Lesson learned: Take engine assembly to engine builder. Let HIM disassemble, evaluate, send parts to machinist, and re-assemble.

I wasted so much time and money trying to do all that myself too. Now all I will do is pull engine and tranny, seperate the two, and deliver it to engiine shop.
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jsayre914
post Mar 15 2012, 11:51 AM
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Machine guy told me he removed 15 thousandths (,015)

he said it was about the thickness of 3 pieces of paper

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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