getting transmission tail cover back on, question for Dr Evil or anyone else Options

[worn]

I bought a side shift transmission and of course the first thing I did was to take the back cover off. Good news is the dog teeth look sharp. OK, not really going to work on this right now, lets button it back up. No go. It appears that all or at least a few of the studs are splayed slightly outwards and I can get things lined up but the ting won't tap back together. I have reverse sliding across it's gear, and I am watching the notched thrust piece try to slide off, but it won't quite go. Any thoughts before I break something?

Sorry I mistakenly followed a thread and posted first in classifieds.

[ChrisFoley]

Any thoughts before I break something?

There's a thick washer with a relief cutout that will prevent the assembly from going together if the washer isn't rotated to the proper orientation.

[Jeffs9146]

Make sure you stack the loose gears and not try to leave them on the tail cone! Align the stack of gears and gently slide the tail cone over them.

[Richard Casto]

Make sure you stack the loose gears and not try to leave them on the tail cone! Align the stack of gears and gently slide the tail cone over them.

That is how I do it. I am at the point that I have nearly 100% success rate of threading the needle on the first try. When you stack them up, use something (like a straw, etc.) to slide down the middle to make sure the entire stack is aligned up as close as you can get. Then position the cover above and thread the needle.

I have heard that strategic application of some grease can be done to hold things into place, but I don't use that method. You can also practice by remove the reverse idler gear and associated bearings, etc. to get a feel for how it finally seats.

Regardless of how you do it, don't force it as if things are not aligned, you can easily damage the bearing that sits between the thrust washer and the reverse idler gear. A dental pick (cheap at HF tools) can also be used to position that thrust washer and bearing if you get the cover 90% on and things just don't align properly.

Good luck! You will eventually get it done. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Richard

[worn]

Make sure you stack the loose gears and not try to leave them on the tail cone! Align the stack of gears and gently slide the tail cone over them.

OK, I am aware of the thick washer. Just so I am sure, are you saying the gears for reverse that came off with the cover - thick washer, thrust bearing, gear, should start out on exactly which half as assembly begins? I just want to be sure I understand what tail cone is. Is the reverse gear stack left on the shaft in the cover as you begin assembly? Also does the brass speedo gear ever hang up, mine is a little loose in the large bolt.

Thanks guys.

[Jeffs9146]

Make sure you stack the loose gears and not try to leave them on the tail cone! Align the stack of gears and gently slide the tail cone over them.

OK, I am aware of the thick washer. Just so I am sure, are you saying the gears for reverse that came off with the cover - thick washer, thrust bearing, gear, should start out on exactly which half as assembly begins? I just want to be sure I understand what tail cone is. Is the reverse gear stack left on the shaft in the cover as you begin assembly? Also does the brass speedo gear ever hang up, mine is a little loose in the large bolt.

Thanks guys.

Do not have the gear stack on the tail cone when assembling!

You stack over the hole the thick notched washer, roller bearing, gear with bearings and spacer inside and roller bearing on the end of the trans, then slide the housing (tail cone) into the stack and it should slide toghether!

[Dr Evil]

Great, I posted a reply in the classifieds (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

[Dr Evil]

from the classifieds

"If you got it off, then you should be able to get it on. Once the studs are in the holes, it is the idler gear stud (big honker poking out of the tail cone) that needs to thread through the flat bearing and the notch washer. The only other possible sticking point might be the speedo drive (take it out) before putting the cone on. "

[worn]

from the classifieds

"If you got it off, then you should be able to get it on. Once the studs are in the holes, it is the idler gear stud (big honker poking out of the tail cone) that needs to thread through the flat bearing and the notch washer. The only other possible sticking point might be the speedo drive (take it out) before putting the cone on. "

Thanks All!

For future reference, is there a way of unstarting a thread once one has followed a Dr. Evil link and accidentally posted to the classified when it belongs somewhere entirely different? I tried edit but lacked skills.

[Dr Evil]

I dont even know what you are asking (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Jeffs9146]

I think he wants to delete a thread! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Dr Evil]

Ah, ya cant (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[dangrouche]

look toward the end this thread (page 6)

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...0904&st=100

[worn]

look toward the end this thread (page 6)

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...0904&st=100

Thanks. I like the part where someone else explains what I mean. There seems to be some disagreement about how best to do this. I was confused between the words cone and stack. However, it worked smooth with reverse all assembled and placed on the intermediate plate. The shaft in the cone thn sliding in as the cone was fit. Hard to do if the tranny was on the car I should think. The link shows doing it as I was trying to do, with reverse assembled on the cone.
Thanks again

[Dr Evil]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)