Looking to buy 73 1.7 Options

[BiG bOgGs]

Other than looking over the basics that should be checked for on any 914, are there any specific problems to check for on the 73 1.7? Also is there any way to verify what options/color/wheels/ect. that the car first came with?

Thanks in advance for any help you can give.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[bob91403]

1.7? Why wouldn't you want a 2.0?

[wheelo]

Cause... the 1.7 is a reliable... good-tight, little motor!
When she goes..... in-pops the 2056 !!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)

[bob91403]

Yeah, but you probably don't get sway bars and all the other extras that were standard on the 2.0.

[wilchek]

I have a 73 1.7 and it has been great. I did install the center console, but I had fun doing it. We don't have a front sway bar either, but the car still handles better than any car I have ever driven,including a lotus. Check under the battery(ie hell hole) and jack the car up and take the wheels off and look everywhere, I mean everywhere. Try to look under the rocker covers, under the trunk mat, under the seats and behind the back pad, Under the spare and the list goes on. After you found no rust HAHA. After you found the rust try to figure out how bad it is. If the car had a recent repaint and you don't know the owner or don't have pics to prove they fixed what is under the new paint, steer clear. Don't be in a rush it took me 3 years to find the car I wanted and it still has issues, but that is why we buy them. As my friend put it best, the car is not an investment, it will cost you a lot of money, and you will enjoy spending it, you only live once. As to original options and color. Not many options on a 1.7, as for color, it is on a plate on the drives side door, hinge side. Check out the site below for codes. http://homepage.mac.com/markd/914/colors.html

Good Luck

[Mueller]

1.7? Why wouldn't you want a 2.0?

oh great, another 2.0 elitist (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Yeah, but you probably don't get sway bars and all the other extras that were standard on the 2.0

not all 2.0's came with swaybars, my '74 2.0 had no front bar....

factory sway bars are dirt cheap, any swaybar is fairly easy to install down the road if you need one (you should have one, makes the car even better)

for the paint, you'd have to look for signs of a repaint or write down the paint code and check it out.....as for the wheels, there are a few that could have been put on by the factory and a few more the dealer could have put on...if you are serious, you could pick up a few 914 books* and use those for a referance/guide

*pelican,ebay, even amazon should list them

[MattR]

I dont think the 1.7 is any more or less reliable then the 2.0...

And if you rebuild the engine, the 2.0 would have good (3 bolt) heads, unlike the 1.7. If you're buying a car with the intention of doing a 2056 rebuild, I'd spring for the 2.0 because of the heads.

[bob91403]

Elitist? I just know a good "thing" when I see it. I always liked those ugly convertables. Anywho, on the '73 2.0 the goodies were standard. On the '74 they were options. Except for the LEs, they had everything for less. Funny marketing, wierd paint, fully loaded, loose money. What was porsche thinking? Wish I owned one. Another BIG difference, stronger engine case.

[Mueller]

Another BIG difference, stronger engine case

and how is that so??? the only reason people want the GA case is that it was an original 2.0 non-smog motor case...no big deal at all...bragging rights only to have a GA case.....

as to 1.7, 1.8 or 2.0?...the engine does not matter, you want the cleanest, most solid chassis you can find..the motor is the easiest item to replace/upgrade compared to having to do major rust repair...

[gregrobbins]

Are you sure in the stronger engine case? I know Jake Raby uses any of the type IVs. I would think that if the 2.0s are stronger he would stick to them.

Sway bar in the front is an easy upgrade and worth the effort. There are some who question the value of a rear sway bar on a fairly stock car. Add weight and big power, then you want to add a rear sway bar too.

As I recall the '73 is the first year with the side shift trannie and the '73 1.7L has a few more ponies (a very few) than the 1.8L. So yea, it is a good place to start.

The key is look for rust. If there is a 914 owner in your area, ask them to help you look any good candidates over. There are lots of 914 owners in FL. Also give the electrical a good look. Too many cars have been "custom" wired over the years and it can be hell figuring out what the PO was trying to accomplish.

Good luck finding a car!

[bob91403]

Another BIG difference, stronger engine case

and how is that so??? the only reason people want the GA case is that it was an original 2.0 non-smog motor case...no big deal at all...bragging rights only to have a GA case.....

as to 1.7, 1.8 or 2.0?...the engine does not matter, you want the cleanest, most solid chassis you can find..the motor is the easiest item to replace/upgrade compared to having to do major rust repair...

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Rust is the most important issue.

[Cap'n Krusty]

Are you sure in the stronger engine case? I know Jake Raby uses any of the type IVs. I would think that if the 2.0s are stronger he would stick to them.

Stronger case? Where'd you hear that? Basically, all the cases are interchangeable up through 1979. Bus and Type 4 cases have to be modified to work in a 914 application, but they're the same other than the dipstick, the oil filler, and the fuel pump drive flange on the carbureted motors. The Cap'n

[BiG bOgGs]

Today I took better look at the 73 I was interested in. I have not spoken directly to the owner who is out of the area, but I spoke with his partner, and he told me the inital info I related to ya'll in my inital post. I will now update.

Initally I had only seen the car from the outside. Today I saw inside and under. The biggest find was the label on the inside of the drivers door that read 10/71 as the manufacture date, second was the look under the rear to see the tail shift trans. Third on the list, battery moved to trunck and put in a marine type closed plastic case. And the final killer a cracked windshield on the passenger side. So to sum up it is a 71 maybe 72 with acid/rust damage to the frame. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) So much for my high hopes.

[Mueller]

the main thing is that you learned a little here and did not jump right in and buy a major headache (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[BiG bOgGs]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) Thanks to everyone that put their 2 cents in....now....anyone know of a 914 in good shape (read daily driver) that can be slowly improved on. Florida cars please. I don't want to drive hundreds of miles to find more rust. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[gregrobbins]

For the year, check out the VIN number on the driver's side windshield post or DOT sticker in the rear driver's door jam. It will start with 47_, the _ is the model year. Sure sounds like you came across a '72. Hold out for a '73 with the side shift transmission. Although, a good rust free car is hard to pass up.

[McMark]

It's worth noting that early tail shift cars can be converted to side shift. Just saying it again, so there's no confusion.

[tiim5]

I am very happy with my 73 1.7. Mark De Bernardi of this list is doing the restoration. He even lets me assist, in a very minor way. These cars are wonderful and fun - restoring can be as rewarding as driving them. Find one, ask questions and use this board for resources, that's how I found Mark. Enjoy!