Need help with my 2.0, problems with engine Options

[ChristopherB]

I bought my 914 last summer and have some problems. Everything I know, which is not much, I have learned reading this great forum since then. I was looking for a fun affordable Sunday driver. I love the look of my car, and it is great to drive. However, I started having problems from day one, and the engine is coming out this week for further examination/ rebuild.

Here is the info on the engine from the PO who did a rebuild about 6K miles ago.
2.0 with original D-Jet
Web Racing FI Cam with hydraulic lifters and push rods
Big Bore throttle body from High Performance House
Heated O2 sensor with air/fuel gauge
original heads rebuilt with new valves ported and polished
case steam cleaned and align bored
Remote sender for oil pressure
Mahle pistons , new rings and sleeves

There are a lot other items done to the car unrelated to my engine woes. You can see the ad here: http://www.914club.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=269159

My problems are numerous.
A local shop tells me cylinders 1&3 have low compression and engine needs a rebuild.
This sucks but I am resigned to the fact and am preparing to take on the challenge with a neighbor. I am preparing the engine for removal and it will be out within a week.
The PO indicated that the vac unit on the dist was not working. His mechanic had it tuned with the vac line going to the advance side when it should be on the retard side. I tried switching it but the car would not idle without stalling.
The car has very high crankcase pressure on start up and blew the cooler or the seals 2 weeks ago. The car has oil leaking from the push rod tubes even though the seals were replaced recently. Front main seal is leaking. Pretty much everywhere.

I am confused about cylinder and piston choices and sizes. What is what? Is a 2.0 engine 2056cc and not 2000? And what would be good in my application? I would like to get 140HP if I am going to do a rebuild.
Can I eliminate the stock cooler, and run only a remote cooler?

I have spent a lot of time reading build threads and searching remote coolers, but at this point it seems daunting.
I just purchased the following from a member here;
"Stock distributor from my 73 2.0L with functioning vac advance, Crane XR3000 electronic ignition, MSD rev limiter, Crane Fireball LX91 ignition coil, cap and rotor".

Should I start by purchasing the Raby rebuild video?

I am really bummed to have these problems with what I thought was a solid car, and am really bummed I am not enjoying the nice weather.
I am located in Towson, Maryland if anyone wants to recommend shops, mechanics, or better yet offer help or services.

[struckn]

Chris I just sent you a PM with some info on local shops. Check you messages.

Doug

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[ChristopherB]

Thanks Doug

[Dave_Darling]

The Raby video is a good guide to a rebuild that has no surprises and a team of elves who clean and measure everything for you. Very worthwhile.

The Haynes manual is a pretty good resource. Tom Wilson's "How to Rebuild Your Volkswagen Air-Cooled Engine" is also a good resource. Wilson talks about some of the cleaning/measuring/machining that happens to the parts as well, which is nice. He talks about the Type I/II/III/IV and 914 engines all together, which can be confusing.

The stock "2.0" displacement is actually 1971cc. That's a 71mm stroke and a 94mm bore. If you go up to a 96mm bore, you get a 2056cc engine.

--DD

[euro911]

I would get a second opinion (from a knowledgeable bud or local member in good standing on this forum) before doing a tear-down and rebuild.

Do a valve adjustment first, then perform a compression check and leak-down test.

As for positive crankcase pressure, in looking at the pix of the engine, I see NO crankcase venting whatsoever. The oil filler breather box vent is plugged. It needs to be vented out to an external breather box at a minimum. Additional venting from the heads may be required as well (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Tackle these issues first and post your findings. Then you can move on to the distributor and timing issues.


EDIT: I do see venting in another pic with the air filter housing installed. It may not be enough though ... still may need to vent the heads (can be done with aftermarket nipples on the valve covers if you don't want to remove the heads right now).

[914itis]

I would get a second opinion (from a knowledgeable bud or local member in good standing on this forum) before doing a tear-down and rebuild.

Do a valve adjustment first, then perform a compression check and leak-down test.

As for positive crankcase pressure, in looking at the pix of the engine, I see NO crankcase venting whatsoever. The oil filler breather box vent is plugged. It needs to be vented out to an external breather box at a minimum. Additional venting from the heads may be required as well (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Tackle these issues first and post your findings. Then you can move on to the distributor and timing issues.


EDIT: I do see venting in another pic with the air filter housing installed. It may not be enough though ... still may need to vent the heads (can be done with aftermarket nipples on the valve covers if you don't want to remove the heads right now).

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I had a similar experience with my 1st 914' a local mechanic told me to start pulling the heads. Turned out that the engine only needed valve adjustment, dwell strings and carb sync. Until now, it runs great.

Same story from pO , then engine was rebuilt less than 100 miles prior to my purchase.

[ChristopherB]

Thanks everyone so much! I have all the parts to vent the heads by installing ports on the valve covers and installing a breather can. I was going to do this and then the cooler blew. Thanks for the help. The PO also mentioned that the iron melling pump is known to cause high pressure on start up. Is this something I should change at this point to the aluminum schadek pump from aircooled.net?

[mepstein]

Should I start by purchasing the Raby rebuild video?

Yes. It's a cheap education.

[ChristopherB]

Great Thanks

[euro911]

Well the good thing is that once you drop the engine and separate it from the transaxle, you can replace all the seals without removing the heads and splitting the case.

[ChristopherB]

That is what I'm hoping.

[rwilner]

Chris
The manual for the crane setup is available online here and if you follow it to the letter you should be all set. It worked very well on my setup when I was running the distributor.

(Also -- it will be on its way to you Saturday.)

Rich

[ChristopherB]

Great, Thanks Rich.
The engine is down but still sitting on a motorcycle lift under the car. I only had so much time on Easter with family arriving for dinner.
As my car has hydraulic lifters, do the valves still need adjustment?
I am thinking that with the vac unit on the distributor not functioning, and my car idling so high(near 2,000), that my high pressure problems at start up may just be a result of those aforementioned problems. Possible? Likely?

[914itis]

You may want to test the AAR ok'd you are hidling @ 2000 rpm, if working properly, the rpm should start decreasing in about 5- 10 minutes from when you start the engine.

[euro911]

Great, Thanks Rich.
The engine is down but still sitting on a motorcycle lift under the car. I only had so much time on Easter with family arriving for dinner.
As my car has hydraulic lifters, do the valves still need adjustment?
I am thinking that with the vac unit on the distributor not functioning, and my car idling so high(near 2,000), that my high pressure problems at start up may just be a result of those aforementioned problems. Possible? Likely?

Check your manual, but I believe hydraulic lifters are adjusted for 0-lash.

Check the vacuum diaphragm on the dizzy to see if it's working properly (this is where a Mighty-Vac comes in handy).

Also check to see if the mechanical advance mechanism is frozen up. If so, clean everything with solvent, then lightly lube with a light machine oil (3-in-1, etc.).

[Bleyseng]

Normally hydro lifters are set to 1.5 turns in after they are all pumped up after zerolash.
Running hydro lifters with Djet is tough to tune as they have a different vac signature than solid lifter cams.

I'd switch to a aluminum body oil pump if you have the engine out as the melling just leak and leak.

[76-914]

You may want to test the AAR ok'd you are hidling @ 2000 rpm, if working properly, the rpm should start decreasing in about 5- 10 minutes from when you start the engine.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) Did you fill out all of the necessary forms before changing your handle, Paul.? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

[euro911]

Reminds me of that guy from Romania named Buchotiv Schitt. He got fed up with people always making fun of his name, so he went to court to have it legally changed ...


... to Jack

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[914itis]

You may want to test the AAR ok'd you are hidling @ 2000 rpm, if working properly, the rpm should start decreasing in about 5- 10 minutes from when you start the engine.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) Did you fill out all of the necessary forms before changing your handle, Paul.? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

As per admin, yes...
If admin did it, I Must Have complied.. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif)

[ChristopherB]

Normally hydro lifters are set to 1.5 turns in after they are all pumped up after zerolash.
Running hydro lifters with Djet is tough to tune as they have a different vac signature than solid lifter cams.

I'd switch to a aluminum body oil pump if you have the engine out as the melling just leak and leak.

Can you help me with this? Is Aircooled.net is the best place to get these pumps? My car has euro pistons with 8:1 compression and stock oil cooler. I get the 30 mm pump modified by them for the type IV and I do not want it full flow. Is that correct?
I really appreciate the help. I will post some pictures to make this a bit more interesting.