Need help with my 2.0, problems with engine Options

[Dave_Darling]

Your hoses are not right. Especially if that's a fuel line I see going into the top of the intake plenum (the manifold box). That connection should go to the MPS (manifold pressure sensor). The Decel Valve should have one line to the air cleaner, the other large line to the manifold, and the small line also to the manifold.

--DD

[ChristopherB]

Thanks dave. That was a picture when I got the car last summer. I ended up disconnecting the decal valve, as I could no get it to run otherwise. The engine is almost out and I am going to check everything. Thanks again.

[TheCabinetmaker]

That hose on the pcv valve goes on the plenum port where the medium size hose from the decel is plumbed. There was originally a fiting there that both the pcv and small decel hose fit on.

[ChristopherB]

Thanks again for all the help.
I was going through all the paperwork and receipts that came with the car, and I found two copies of Dave's hose layout diagrams. In the photo, I have pulled the brown line off of the decal and plugged it, while installing the air filter on the decal valve. The car died at idle unless it was like this. My air box is stock I am guessing by the look of it, but the throttle body has only one port. The Raby video is on the way. I have not been able to finish getting the engine totally out of the car. I have been excited to get going on this but my helper has been too busy. Tomorrow should see some progress. Is it difficult to build a run stand for an EFI set up? Are there any good links you can recommend?

[Bleyseng]

I'd order some FI fuel clamps instead of those worm type which cut into the fuel line. Rememeber, there is 29psi going thru the lines and ANY slight leak can start a fire!
Use the correct high pressure fuel line too.

[ChristopherB]

I'd order some FI fuel clamps instead of those worm type which cut into the fuel line. Rememeber, there is 29psi going thru the lines and ANY slight leak can start a fire!
Use the correct high pressure fuel line too.

I will do that, and I ordered the 30 mm aluminum oil pump already. Thanks

[ChristopherB]

I really got delayed repairing the car, but I am putting things back together after taking care of a few things. I have moved the fuel pump to the from trunk and replaced the fuel lines as well as better clamps. I replaced the oil pump, and a upgraded to a 75 amp alternator. I have a new distributor as well. I am wondering though about the throttle body as it has only one port. The car had this port running to the advance side of the dizzy. The PO told me it should go to the retard side, but the car ran like crap like that. I am wondering how to deal with this. Should I add a second port to the throttle body, or try it with the new dizy and see how it works. The vac unit on the original dizzy was not working.

[Dave_Darling]

Most of the 74+ 2.0 cars did not have any vacuum advance. The fitting was there on the distributor dashpot, but the line was not connected--it was run down under the manifold and just left open.

That's how it was stock, at least.

If you want to add vacuum advance, you will have to carefully locate where the fitting should be on the throttle body. It's almost but not quite even with the closed position of the throttle plate. I'm not sure how precise the location needs to be, but I'd bet it's less than a quarter-inch precision that is needed.

--DD

[ChristopherB]

Great, Thanks. I will try it without adding the second port and see what happens.

[reharvey]

That's a very colorful engine compartment! Wow!

[ChristopherB]

Thanks. I love the car. I think it looks and drives great. I hope it all comes together in the next few weeks. I made some changes, and as I am no mechanic, I am concerned that it is all not right. We shall see. I at least got the engine under the car and ready to be lifted into place this weekend. here is a list of things I adressed with the engine out of the car.
fuel pump moved to front trunk
all new hose and clamps
replaced oil pump and alternator
new used dizzy with a crane ignition purchased from a world member
oil catch can vented from empi valve covers
(I know everyone complains about these leaking but I did not want to tap the stock ones. We'll see how they work) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
new harness from Jeff Bowlsby

[ChristopherB]

Here are some photos just to make this more interesting. I used a skateboard and a motorcycle lift to move the engine into place. I replace the skateboard with a jack to lift together. I might get a scissor lift if I have to drop the engine again.

fuel pump

[ChristopherB]

I did not even know what a valve cover was when I bought this car about 2 years ago. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) The PO was a little worried about selling the car to me because he could tell I was totally clueless. I am really enjoying working on the car, but with the weather improving I am getting anxious to drive the car again. Here is a shot of the car.

[ChristopherB]

[type47]

Only 20 more days 'til Hershey. That should be enough to get the car fine tuned to join the madness ...

[ChristopherB]

I have a question about raising the engine into place. I have it all the way forward so the mounts are lined up to raise the engine, but my fuel rails are hitting the pick ups for the trailing arms. Is this usually a tight squeeze with the fuel rails or am I missing something in the technique? Do I need to lift the engine to get the fuel rails higher than the pick ups and then push it back before finishing the lift?

[Dave_Darling]

You should be able to just push the fuel rails around. They're only held onto the engine by the hoses to the injectors. Those should have enough flex that you can move them out of the way.

Or remove the rails, or the injectors to get them out of the way. Not hard to re-attach either once the engine is in the car.

--DD

[ChristopherB]

You should be able to just push the fuel rails around. They're only held onto the engine by the hoses to the injectors. Those should have enough flex that you can move them out of the way.

Or remove the rails, or the injectors to get them out of the way. Not hard to re-attach either once the engine is in the car.

--DD

Great Thanks

[SUNAB914]

Just my .02 cents, in the pic of engine it looked like the THS (Temp head sensor) wasn't hooked up, I see you still have original FI but with a bunch of other stuff added. Others more familar might lend a helping hand. I don't think you could get it running right without the THS hooked up? Might be the whole issue, if I'm seeing it correctly.
Good luck

[ChristopherB]

Just my .02 cents, in the pic of engine it looked like the THS (Temp head sensor) wasn't hooked up, I see you still have original FI but with a bunch of other stuff added. Others more familar might lend a helping hand. I don't think you could get it running right without the THS hooked up? Might be the whole issue, if I'm seeing it correctly.
Good luck

The THS is a small wire that comes through the tin between cylinders 3 & 4. you can see the long white plug for it on the new harness. You can't see the wire going to it however. It is there and plugged in. I know this because Jeff's diagram for the new harness is very good and easy to read. I appreciate your input, and I will need some more help in the next few days as I connect the decel valve and all the vac lines.
Thanks