Why not "braze" reinforcements on?, info from the "Welder's Handbook" Options

[John Kelly]

One of the problems with flux core is the lack of being able to see what the weld puddle is doing.

For welding thin material to thick material, you must use a hot setting, concentrate the weld on the thick stuff, and whip over to the thin stuff, and quickly back to the thick. Use the trigger to control the heat if the thin material starts to go away.

John www.ghiaspecialties.com

[SpecialK]

One of the problems with flux core is the lack of being able to see what the weld puddle is doing.

For welding thin material to thick material, you must use a hot setting, concentrate the weld on the thick stuff, and whip over to the thin stuff, and quickly back to the thick. Use the trigger to control the heat if the thin material starts to go away.

John www.ghiaspecialties.com

SUCCESS!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

I did 4 of each weld in some scrap:

1/4" hole in 18ga, 12ga no drill divot
1/4" hole in 18ga, 12ga with drill divot
5/16" hole in 18ga, 12ga no drill divot
5/16" hole in 18ga, 12ga with drill divot
3/8" hole in 18ga, 12ga no drill divot
3/8" hole in 18ga, 12ga with drill divot

I seemed to have the best results as far as a balance of good penetration and appearance (no pics, POS camera....remember the lug bolt pic?) with the 5/16" attach hole in the 18ga metal, and an approx. .060" deep drill divot in the 12ga plate. BFH tested it until I got tired of smacking it, and it held great. Never got the weld to break, but the 18ga started to fatigue around it. I'd go into a little more detail on the other size holes, but I've got to get in the shower and get my ass to work, besides they were just runner ups of the BFH smack down contest held recently in my garage.....Bring it on!

I'm gonna practice that attach hole/divot configuration a couple of dozen times before I start BBQ'n the car.

Thanks again for all of the tip guys!
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