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> Subaru Conversion, Helpful Hints
Porscharu914
post May 17 2012, 02:12 AM
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Recently I was gifted a '71 914. This car was given to me by a member at the country club I work at. In 1983 he took the car to a shop in Nebraska where he paid a guy 4k to do a FULL restoration to the motor and body. ($4000.00 went slightly farther than it would today) The guy was supposed to work on the car on the weekends and they planned the project to take 18-24 months. After the motor/trans were pulled and the body work had been done the shop closed down and the car had to go....NOW. The guy I got the car from picked it up from the shop and stored it, mid restoration, in a garage thinking someday he'd get to it. The car hadn't been touched from then until last 2 Sundays ago and I'm now the proud owner of a primed, motorless, transmissionless, brakeless, and interiorless 914. With all the resources and personal abilities I have I should be able to flip the car in about 2 years....hopefully sooner.

Since the motor and transmission were pulled and mysteriously went 80% of the way missing I've decided to do the somewhat frowned upon Subaru swap. Yesterday I picked up the FWD transmission, yes FWD, out of a 92 Legacy. I'll be going back for an EJ22 (non turbo) on Monday. I'm not worried about mounting the motor/trans or getting CVs that will fit. I'm most concerned about doing an ALL AROUND hub conversion for the sake of saving some $$$ on brakes and the versatility of a wider wheel selection.

So with the novel out of the way here are a few of my questions:

What hubs will be the best bet for all 4 corners? (consistent bolt pattern is a must)

Is plumbing in a front mounted radiator the most effective water cooling solution?

Do I need to upgrade the fuel pump? If so, to how many lph?

Is there an easy solution to making the Subie conversion work with my guage cluster? (tach, speedo.....etc)

Are there any non-mechanical issues I'm up against for bolting everything together?

Also I would very much appreciate any added advice or tips to make this a smooth conversion.

Cheers
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wingnut86
post May 17 2012, 07:00 AM
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Education is key. Read all the blogs and builds here as you can.

Crawl, walk before you run. 2 years is ambitious unless you have bottomless pockets.

If you sell to the Southwest or Southeast, you may want to install AC for the Suby as well.

Welcome and Great Luck!

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Lennies914
post May 17 2012, 07:34 AM
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The answers to all your questions are here. Search for subaru wiki page. Britain did a nice job of consolidating alot of the info.
Or look at some of these builds;
sawtooth
strawman
zaney
dbcooper
bigkat 83
porcharu
carreraguy
amenson

Good luck, I'm looking forward to seeing your build.

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904svo
post May 17 2012, 08:18 AM
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After putting a 2007 Subaru WRX in my kit car. I would suggest you get the following.
1 A complete manual on the car
2 Complete engine and wiring harness from the car, If its a 2005 to 2007 get
the immobilizer and keys also pre 2004 as far as I know were not equipped.
3 Use the 914 transmission with the Kennedy adapter.
4 Be prepare to do some plumbing work for cooling.

5 THINK THING OUT BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING!!!

Yes, you can use the original 914 gages.
Alternator light same as 914 1 wire
Oil press light same as a 914 1 wire
Gas gauge requires some electrical work to fake out the ECU
Starter circuit (914 key) requires rewiring, but will work.
With a 914 transmission and that engine a new shift rod will be required. Using
a 914 transmission will locate the engine for you by using the rear mounts and
original half shafts can be used.
Tach some late models will work but most require a adapter
A VSS circuit will have to made up and attached to the half shaft
Speedometer will work with 914 transmission

These were some of the problems I ran into doing my conversion.
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drdave427
post May 17 2012, 04:38 PM
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QUOTE(904svo @ May 17 2012, 10:18 AM) *

After putting a 2007 Subaru WRX in my kit car. I would suggest you get the following.
1 A complete manual on the car
2 Complete engine and wiring harness from the car, If its a 2005 to 2007 get
the immobilizer and keys also pre 2004 as far as I know were not equipped.
3 Use the 914 transmission with the Kennedy adapter.
4 Be prepare to do some plumbing work for cooling.

5 THINK THING OUT BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING!!!

Yes, you can use the original 914 gages.
Alternator light same as 914 1 wire
Oil press light same as a 914 1 wire
Gas gauge requires some electrical work to fake out the ECU
Starter circuit (914 key) requires rewiring, but will work.
With a 914 transmission and that engine a new shift rod will be required. Using
a 914 transmission will locate the engine for you by using the rear mounts and
original half shafts can be used.
Tach some late models will work but most require a adapter
A VSS circuit will have to made up and attached to the half shaft
Speedometer will work with 914 transmission

These were some of the problems I ran into doing my conversion.

Why didn't you use the Subaru transmission ??
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904svo
post May 17 2012, 05:33 PM
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QUOTE(drdave427 @ May 17 2012, 02:38 PM) *

QUOTE(904svo @ May 17 2012, 10:18 AM) *

After putting a 2007 Subaru WRX in my kit car. I would suggest you get the following.
1 A complete manual on the car
2 Complete engine and wiring harness from the car, If its a 2005 to 2007 get
the immobilizer and keys also pre 2004 as far as I know were not equipped.
3 Use the 914 transmission with the Kennedy adapter.
4 Be prepare to do some plumbing work for cooling.

5 THINK THING OUT BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING!!!

Yes, you can use the original 914 gages.
Alternator light same as 914 1 wire
Oil press light same as a 914 1 wire
Gas gauge requires some electrical work to fake out the ECU
Starter circuit (914 key) requires rewiring, but will work.
With a 914 transmission and that engine a new shift rod will be required. Using
a 914 transmission will locate the engine for you by using the rear mounts and
original half shafts can be used.
Tach some late models will work but most require a adapter
A VSS circuit will have to made up and attached to the half shaft
Speedometer will work with 914 transmission

These were some of the problems I ran into doing my conversion.

Why didn't you use the Subaru transmission ??


Cause it was to long, it would fit outside the 904 fiberglass body
thats why.
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Dave_Darling
post May 17 2012, 06:08 PM
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QUOTE(Porscharu914 @ May 17 2012, 01:12 AM) *
What hubs will be the best bet for all 4 corners? (consistent bolt pattern is a must)


The front hub is part of the front rotor, they're one solid casting.

I don't know of any other hubs that fit the front spindle. The only rear hubs I know of that fit the 914 are 914-6 rear hubs. And those fall into the category of "rather expensive", even for a Por$che.

It is relatively popular to change the 914 over to the five-bolt pattern (5x130mm) that the 911s use. You use 911 front struts which fit the 914 pretty much perfectly, and give you the 5-bolt hubs and bigger brakes. Swapping the cross-member, A-arms, and so forth is optional.

The rears are tougher. The more common way to do them is to have the stock hubs drilled 5x130mm and studs pressed in. Then either re-drilled 914 rear rotors or unmodified 914-6 rear rotors can be used with the stock 914 rear brakes--though often a little grinding of the OD of the rotor or moving the caliper out a couple MM is needed when using the Six rear rotors.

Other options include working up ways to use 911 rear rotors and calipers (sometimes including the internal drum brake e-brake), or machining hubs and bearings and doing mix-and-match to get things to fit.

We know of people who have made adaptors to go from 4x130mm to 4x100mm. Those seem less-cheesy than the four-to-five adaptors, though they are still not that highly thought-of in some circles.

--DD
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dlo914
post May 18 2012, 12:39 PM
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VOX and i are also doing an EJ22 swap, but went with the original 914 901 transmission adapted using the Kennedy Engineering Plate.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/img.photobucket.com-2697-1337366345.1.jpg)

Our thread: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=92942
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dlo914
post May 18 2012, 12:49 PM
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Our cooling solution: dual core full aluminum radiator for a Mazda Miata, two 12" electric pulling fans, 20ft+ gates rubber hosing running underneath the floor pan in the factory grooves, and shroud made out of aluminum sheet metal.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/img.photobucket.com-10027-1311625789.1.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/img.photobucket.com-10027-1311650702.1.jpg)
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Porscharu914
post May 18 2012, 05:08 PM
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Wow! Thanks for the warm welcome into the Porsche 914 world. I'm excited to be a part of this community.

Thanks for all of your input and help on some of the things I was curious about.

For the drive line end of things I have absolutely NO original 914 tranny to start with. This is why I went with the Subaru tranny. It's FWD so I don't have to worry about the headache of the AWD trannies. There's a great shop near me that builds very solid custom CVs and are reasonably priced so going from the Subaru tranny to Porsche hubs won't be a problem. However if anyone knows a good place to get adapters to make the bolt pattern 4x100 I'd appreciate the lead. I'll be fabricating a push/pull cable system for the shifter which will eliminate shift linkage.

On the cooling side of the project I've seen builds with lines plumbed into and through the interior, and lines that were run under the chassis of the car. I'm planning on plumbing through the interior as I see it to be more beneficial. Does anyone have any reason(s) I should plumb underneath the car instead. (outside of putting holes in the firewalls) It's funny that the Miata radiator was brought up because my buddy is thinking about donating his Miata radiator to the project. He also suggested 2 12" fans. Hmmmmm....I think I'll do that.

Thanks again for the warm welcome and help.

Total project cost so far (car included): $140

This was as soon as we got it on the trailer after sitting for nearly 30 years
Attached Image
This is the 5 speed FWD Subaru transmission all cleaned up ($140)
Attached Image
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Porscharu914
post May 18 2012, 05:10 PM
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I'm also in need of a pair of the side skirts. Where can I find new OEMish ones?
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Mike Bellis
post May 18 2012, 06:13 PM
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Nice Score! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

Fix the rust first! Look everywhere and under the battery. Then look again.

If you pick up a subie donor car, you can use the factory ECU and have a tuner shop flash out all the un-needed stuff (abs, air bag, etc...) You could run the subie dash cluster too if you wanted.
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Porscharu914
post May 18 2012, 07:52 PM
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There's not one bit of rust on the car, the body is in great shape! I found the motor that I'll probably end up getting this Monday. It's out of a 92 Legacy, it has 140,000 miles on it but I'll go through and completely reseal the entire motor, pick up a new alternator, water pump, and replace the timing belt/chain. I can pick up the motor and PCM for about $225. That includes a $50 core charge and I've got a spare KA24DE for my 240sx sitting around so I'll be looking at $175.

I want to keep the looks of the car, minus the wheels, as stock as possible. I've also got a set of racing seats to go in it since the stock vinyl seats are worn out. Like I said in my first post, I have a ton of good resources to begin with. One of which being a good friend of mine that works as an Audi tech at the local Porsche and Audi dealer. He's agreed to help me go through and, from scratch, rewire the ENTIRE car.

I've also picked out the near mid-night green that I'm going to paint it. Can't wait!
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Lennies914
post May 18 2012, 07:58 PM
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QUOTE(kg6dxn @ May 18 2012, 05:13 PM) *

Nice Score! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

Fix the rust first! Look everywhere and under the battery. Then look again.

If you pick up a subie donor car, you can use the factory ECU and have a tuner shop flash out all the un-needed stuff (abs, air bag, etc...) You could run the subie dash cluster too if you wanted.




Just sayin


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pktzygt
post May 21 2012, 07:52 AM
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I hope to fire my WRX swapped 914 in the next couple weeks, but as far as the interior goes....you might want to look into black carpet on the rear firewall. I would fit with the aftermarket buckets you are putting in and will save cash.

Also, to save you time searching, those cooling hoses pictured above with the yellow stripe are from NAPA and are sold by the foot. Gates green stripe hoses are also a good option.
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Porscharu914
post May 22 2012, 06:34 PM
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Picked up my Subaru Legacy 2.2 liter with 140,XXX miles on it for $275.00 yesterday. There's a $100 core charge but I'll get that back on Tuesday when I take them my 240sx motor I have sitting around. I also got a timing belt and reseal kit for the motor. That was another $240. I also found out that the intake plenum on the Subaru motors are reversible. (With minor bending of the fuel lines) I'm still only into this for about $650. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I still need to get a starter, alternator, and PCM but those will probably come over the weekend or maybe Tuesday. Tuesday will also include mocking up the push/pull cable shifter system so I can order the cables and work on getting them mounted and working properly! I'm hoping to have the motor torn apart, cleaned, possibly painted, and resealed some day next week or early the following week. Making lots of good progress in the right direction!

Is anyone familiar with any companies that sell flat unmolded pieces of carpet that i can mold myself? (probably with a heat gun) Or anyone that sells new replacement carpet for the car?

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wingnut86
post May 22 2012, 09:31 PM
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Morph through his relationship with 914Rubber sells it.

Ping Mark Whitesel for info...
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dlo914
post May 24 2012, 01:33 AM
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the intake manifold is reversible, but then you would have to fabricate a new adjustable tensioning bracket for the alternator since the alternator still sits on the front side of the motor. We went through this entire situation with our EJ22 and resorted to cutting a 6x5" hole into the rear trunk to plumb the intake.
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Porscharu914
post May 24 2012, 01:43 AM
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I decided that the inconvenience of having to plumb the intake out weighs all the other custom fab work to flip the intake. Oh well it was worth a shot.
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Dasnowman
post May 24 2012, 02:25 AM
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QUOTE(dlo914 @ May 18 2012, 11:49 AM) *

Our cooling solution: dual core full aluminum radiator for a Mazda Miata, two 12" electric pulling fans, 20ft+ gates rubber hosing running underneath the floor pan in the factory grooves, and shroud made out of aluminum sheet metal.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/img.photobucket.com-10027-1311625789.1.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/img.photobucket.com-10027-1311650702.1.jpg)



Wow that doesn't look like a good idea at all wouldn't it be better to run the lines in the heat ducts throught the rocker panels?
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