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> How do I remove stubborn pistons / cylinders?, Success!!
rwilner
post May 18 2012, 05:18 AM
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So with some less-than-gentle persuasion with a rubber mallet, I got the heads off my 1.7 core.

This engine didn't turn over and it's obvious why...the cylinders have rust on the inside and the pistons will not budge. I need to get the Ps and Cs off and I don't care if I damage them as they're toast anyway, but I need to keep the case pristine as this is what I'll be using for my rebuild (really it's why I bought the core).

So, any tricks to free up and remove the pistons and cylinders? More persuasion with a rubber mallet? Gallons of PB blaster? Mild explosive?
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ArtechnikA
post May 18 2012, 05:59 AM
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Penetrants, heat, patience.
If CHT is in the 350º-400º F range, the cylinders are in that ball park too, so they can take a bunch of heat. This will expand the bore and make more room for the penetrants to get where they need to go to do what they do.

KROIL also has an excellent reputation and I use it and PB Blaster (and others...) I don't think I've ever seen KROIL at a FLAPS but any decent gun store will have it. (Although this might be elusive in Boston, as well.) There are always the online sources...
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hot_shoe914
post May 18 2012, 06:32 AM
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Rubber mallet. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)
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EdwardBlume
post May 18 2012, 07:46 AM
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Wire brush and pick at the base too. Penetrating oil. I didn't have any trouble pulling my stock 2.0 down...
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Rex-n-effect
post May 18 2012, 07:56 AM
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Mine had the same issue when i got it. They had been soaked in water for about 12 years so you can imagine what kind of bonding had been going on. They were so bad that, well lets just leave it at that. I soaked in rust penetrant for weeks before i tackled this. When this had no effect i ended up using the BFH (metal) to knock them off. I had pieces of cylinder fins all over the shop but i got them off. When i got too close to the case i used wood blocks and brass drifts to wack the crap out of it. Took a long time but they eventually came off. Good luck!!!!
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EdwardBlume
post May 18 2012, 08:10 AM
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QUOTE(Rex-n-effect @ May 18 2012, 06:56 AM) *

Mine had the same issue when i got it. They had been soaked in water for about 12 years so you can imagine what kind of bonding had been going on. They were so bad that, well lets just leave it at that. I soaked in rust penetrant for weeks before i tackled this. When this had no effect i ended up using the BFH (metal) to knock them off. I had pieces of cylinder fins all over the shop but i got them off. When i got too close to the case i used wood blocks and brass drifts to wack the crap out of it. Took a long time but they eventually came off. Good luck!!!!

Yikes!
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rwilner
post May 18 2012, 08:37 AM
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holy crap.

Looks like I have my work cut out for me.

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Cupomeat
post May 18 2012, 08:54 AM
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It usually isn't that bad, but be careful with the cyl to case seating.

Once you start to get somethings moving, you'll be pushing some stuck piston/cyl sets off the block as you drive other ones in and apart. Take your time, hit hard but squarely and as you won't be saving the Ps and Cs, use a BFH.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

Preserve the case!
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injunmort
post May 18 2012, 08:57 AM
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turn one side up, fill cylinder with atf and acetone, heat the cylinder with a torch. tap piston with rubber mallet and they should free up. if the piston is down in the bore, use a piece of wood as a drift to get it free. repeat on other side. good luck, with some paitience and heat they should all come free without much drama.
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rwilner
post May 18 2012, 10:32 AM
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QUOTE(injunmort @ May 18 2012, 10:57 AM) *

turn one side up, fill cylinder with atf and acetone, heat the cylinder with a torch. tap piston with rubber mallet and they should free up. if the piston is down in the bore, use a piece of wood as a drift to get it free. repeat on other side. good luck, with some paitience and heat they should all come free without much drama.


By doing all the banging with a hammer, is there any risk of transferring the loads to the engine case internals and damaging it...for example, damaging the crank bores?

I am planning an align bore anyway...
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injunmort
post May 18 2012, 01:11 PM
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i dont think i said bang on it with the hammer, i believe that the term i used was tap on it with a rubber mallet. the heat expands the cylinder, the acetone and atf attack the rust and the tapping frees the rings from walls of the cylinders. so simple a cave man can do it.fwiw.
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rwilner
post May 18 2012, 01:21 PM
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QUOTE(injunmort @ May 18 2012, 03:11 PM) *

i dont think i said bang on it with the hammer, i believe that the term i used was tap on it with a rubber mallet. the heat expands the cylinder, the acetone and atf attack the rust and the tapping frees the rings from walls of the cylinders. so simple a cave man can do it.fwiw.


right! I quoted the wrong individual, others were saying to bang hard with BFH's.

I will try this method first.
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Qarl
post May 18 2012, 01:25 PM
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Great video here...

http://www.ephotomotion.com/914engine/index.htm
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r_towle
post May 18 2012, 09:26 PM
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Bring it over here on Saturday.
We have the tools and anger...

Or
Go to autozone and get three gallons of pb blaster and a plastic tub.
Soak for a week or two.

Rich
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rwilner
post May 19 2012, 07:35 AM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ May 18 2012, 11:26 PM) *

Bring it over here on Saturday.
We have the tools and anger...

Or
Go to autozone and get three gallons of pb blaster and a plastic tub.
Soak for a week or two.

Rich


Rich
You around next weekend? In laws are staying with me this weekend.
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tomeric914
post May 19 2012, 09:51 PM
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Sledgehammer and a 2x4. Look at my build thread to see what I was up against.
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Cupomeat
post May 19 2012, 10:28 PM
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Confucious says, Yes, even the worst looking situation
Attached Image
will yield to a good hammer...

I thought this one would be difficult, but it was pretty easy!

Good luck!
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euro911
post May 20 2012, 01:20 AM
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Just be really careful when heating up any chemical compositions ... when the liquids form into vapors, you don't want to inhale them (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Wear a quality mask with chemical-rated filters.
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rwilner
post May 20 2012, 07:15 PM
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Ok well, I did a lot of beating with a hammer, heating, and soaking with pb. The cyls are all loose from the block but the positions are still bonded to the cylinders. I broke most of the fins off one of the cylinders trying to separate it from the piston using an oak dowel as a drift.

My torch is a standard brazing/plumbing soldering torch, maybe it's not putting out enough heat.

What's the best approach -- try to bear the cyl off the piston or try to beat the piston down into the cyl?
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moparrob
post May 21 2012, 09:24 AM
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Just curious- would a cutting torch work?
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