Cary's 73 1.7 Rustoration Thread Options

[worn]

I'm finally back. We started working on the clobbered up seam we created years ago on the floor pan to outside firewall. It's going to be a tedious process. I'm going to take it off about an inch at a time. A couple cross cuts got too deep. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) Today I'll set up more light for the delicate surgery. Or maybe the Dremel if I can't get it right.


Sorry for the yellow tint. That's what I get if I don't turn off the halogen lamps before I shoot the pictures.

Cary,

It's great to see your photos again. This is magic! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

[FourBlades]

Nice work as always. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

It can be hard to make the time to do these projects...

John

[trojanhorsepower]

Keep after it.
You guys are doing great!

[cary]

The day went well. Decided to cut out the previous hack job clutch tube repair access panel.



Super In Law making the pattern.



New panel welded in ...............





Next we'll attack the engine firewall. I'm going to cut out the bottom 1.5 inches that contain the fuel lines and clutch cable tube. We'll also need to fabricate a new flange for almost the entire panel.

[cary]

The dreaded WYIT (while your in there) bug has hit again. I think I'm going to change out the heater wire and accelerator tubes. The rust barnacles are so big I don't even what to touch them. I figure we're going to recreate the bottom inch and half of the engine firewall so we might as well change them out.
Plus it will give me a chance to use my new to my torch set up. (Craigslist)

Floor pan install looks to be pretty simple. Putting in the inside firewall looks like its going to be a bitch. I assume floor pan first, then firewall?

I'm going to try out my Preval sprayer to start laying down U-Pol primer. Hopefully it will begin show we're making some progress.

[FourBlades]

I have seen people do the pans first then the firewall and I have seen people do the firewall first, especially if they are using the replacement firewall panels.

I think doing the pans first is easier, I did both my cars that way.

John

[cary]

Super In Law went to reading the instruction book on the torch. He said it's been 40 years since he's used a torch. Then we had to run to AirGas to get the gas tanks filled.



So away we went. Out came the clutch tube. Ran it over the lie detector (Scotty B).
Looks to be still usable. Gave it an Ospho spray down. I'm thinking it will get Ford Blue Rustoleum. So 40 years from now someone will open it up again and go, What the Hell.



So here is the barnacles I was talking about.
So out came the accelerator and heater tubes.



Now we have an emptied out center console. Getting it ready for Rustoluem paint job.
Need to recreate the tube attachment bracket.



Ospohed .............



Firewall emptied out ...........
Trying to decide whether to recreate or buy the panel and cut out what I need.



Make sure you use protection for the wiring harness. The heat and brazing dripping could cause a serious issues.

[cary]

As Super In Law was reading I went to getting ready to install the right side suspension console. Super In Law had his measurements on the white car from when we changed it out 7 or 8 years ago. Got the triangle measurement from the World info. Found a piece of all thread and nuts needed to create the measurement.



This post has been edited by cary: Nov 3 2014, 07:24 AM

[cary]

We decided that we'll make our own patch. We'll see how that goes. I have a lead on a new panel for $100.



Spent most of the day measuring over and over. Then tweaking the suspension console over and over. If I had to do it over again, I should have bought a new one. Too many Rosette holes in taking off the old one off. Need to find the MPS plate

I haven't been welding the old Rosettes closed before I put the old parts back on. I might start doing that too. Welds are too big. Don't look tidy enough. After seam sealer and paint they'll disappear, LOL,





When it is all said and done I'm dead on the 33 5/16 from the shifter hole to bolt and suspension console (Factory, 914 info). From the firewall to center of the hole I'm off just shy of an 1/8". I'm going to use Jeff Hail's numbers this am to double check again. Kind of late now, just being anal

Spent last night reading all 20 pages of a "suspension console" search to see what I could have done different to maybe not have the 1/8". Maybe I should have tacked the suspension console on the upper long when I installed it. It's the angle of the engine compartment long that caused the 1/8".

[cary]

I had to walk away from the console after measuring it again about 10 times.

Decided to cut and prep the pedal box that I bought from Bruce. Both the pedal box and the area around the fuel line rubber mount/holder are pretty tore up. The pedal box was rusted. The fuel line hole was just hacked up.

Had to remove the pedal support and decided to save the suspension mounting point.







The cut portion is sitting overnight in the parts washer. Then I'll dip it in my bucket of muratic acid and water left over from the gas tank cleaning. Should come out gooder and new.

Then I'll brew a pot of coffee and start the suspension console surgery. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif)
Maybe I'll sell the 2 frame stiffeners that I bought from RD and I'm not going to use to ease the pain.

Shot of the harness tab locations in the tunnel. They're coming out so I get all the POR15 off.



Last day of vacation

[cary]

Cut off the suspension console. It ended up being 3/16's too close to the firewall. And the car would have been 3/16's higher on that side. The 3/16's out from the wall will move it up the long there by lowering the car.
More of that conversation located here:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=189224

Removed suspension console

Ready for new suspension console

New part ordered from RD 11/3/2014

This post has been edited by cary: Nov 3 2014, 07:33 AM

[cary]

On a positive note. We're back to work.

Super In Law is working on the buggered up fuel line grommet hole hole on the right side of the tunnel to front firewall. Can't really figure what some one did, so we cut it out. It's like they used a big screwdriver to lever the grommet.





The floor pan section you see on the left will come out with the new to me pedal box and the new floor pan.



He did I nice job of getting it fitted. He built the lip with the press, vise and a pipe.
Its a little rough, but it will work. The line points to the only spot that we're having a tough time grinding down the welds.
Might try this weapon next time. But like always I don't know if theres enough room for the tool and the hose.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-extended...tool-67996.html
I like them smooth enough so they look tidy and tight (no holes) after I seam seal them.

[cary]

Then I went about creating the pattern to patch the bottom of the engine compartment fire wall, the rusty spot where the tubes and cables come thru. Like just about everything on this car.That area was way over welded when we put it on the road 12 years ago. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

I used the new back floor pan as the pattern. Then used the white car, which is still on the lift to take top to bottom measurements from.



Remember when you go about making your pattern you have to compensate for the width of the cutting disk you used to cut out the part.



Here's the two removed pieces that I started with. The yellow arrow points to the shifter rod bushing console. The blue box is the section that will need the most test fitting and fiddling. I'm just now getting a handle on the pattern cutting. Do you cut it with the marker line or marker line out? Kind of like making wood cabinets. One blade width makes a HUGE difference. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[cary]

Here's were I ended the day. Left patch is in. I like it.
Right patch I'm still fitting. Next trip I'll flip the car on its lid so the floor pan will be laying flat for fitting.



That's with a portion of the new flange installed. Yellow Arrow
This was real handy for welding on the flange. Used the 90 degree plate.
http://www.eastwood.com/welders-helper-3x3...cop-plates.html
And not being a dumbass and taking the finger off the trigger. Stitch welded. This was new metal to new metal. So it was weld, cool with air hose, and weld again. No blow thru.
My biggest problem is seeing the weld location while I'm welding. Not enough light. I wish AirGas had loaner helmets.



Here's were I ended. Might have to make a new one, the hole under the speedo tube is a bit too wide. Got impatient with the bench grinder. Plus I'll have issues with the brass brazing so I won't want to be in that spot too long or too hot.

Heading home ....................... Then (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

[cary]

When we got home my package from RD had arrived.
Left Ontario on Tuesday, arrived in Sherwood on Saturday.

As always , great service and great packaging.



I've decided I'll wait until the floor, tunnel and inside fire wall are installed before I get after this part again. I'm going ask RD for some close ups of the outriggers they built onto the 914 jig. I want mine to be removable. So that when I finish with either the left or right console I can get them out of the way. I'm always banging my head on the jig with either the welding helmet or the face shield flipped up.

[cary]

As I was sitting here writing these 3 or 4 posts I think I'll have my son come out and shoot some short video of us using the shear, shrinker/stretcher and the brake as we build these patch pieces. Plus some of the different pieces of steel that we pound on.

All my metal working tools are DIY or Harbor Freight not JET (winning the Powerball wish list).

Until Thursday my next day off.

[cary]

Another good day. Super In Law cut out and tacked in the the new pedal cluster pan. Pretty easy fit. Just laid the new one right inside the old one. Bolted them together right thru the master cylinder holes. Then cut right thru both layers with the cutting disk.



Haven't decided where we'll cut

[cary]

While he was working on that. I went back to fabricating the engine compartment lower firewall patch.
I started with aligning the new rear portion of the floor pan to find the final shape. Held it in place with multiple clamps. That worked perfect.



New patch piece created with flange welded on. Holes drilled in it with a HF step drill bit. It worked like champ.



Patch welded in. Need to touch up a couple pin holes that I saw. I'll tidy them up tomorrow.

[cary]

Back to work ............

I start with filling the gap between the shift bushing console and the firewall flange.



So I start with tacking it together. Then I start the stitch welding. I use 4 different shapes and sizes of brass to back the weld. Key is patience. No more than four pulses at one time without stopping and cooling with an air hose. Did I say be patient?
This was actually easier than it looks. New 18 gauge for the flange. And the firewall and shifter console are heavy enough to absorb the heat.
I am starting to do a better job of wire brushing between welds. It seems to be helping.



All done and tidied up .......... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)



This was actually the welding that I feared the most. I thought it was going to be tougher than it was. Or maybe I'm just learning what to do and not to do. Practice, practice and practice. Entire flange is installed side to side.



Here's the back. Without touching it up or grinding.

[cary]

Finally opened up my Christmas present.
TP Tools.



I used it to remove the seam sealer around the bottom of the firewall. Easy deal. That way the welding magnets could stick to hold up the new flange.
Then I tinkered with removing the undercoating in the front fender.